SargeRX8

The guy from lub asked if the push rod on the master was the same as the original. When I pulled the original out, I made sure I lined them up and put the U connector in the same position on the new master. I asked him if I was doing something wrong with my bleeding process. He said it sounded good. He sat there and bled the system over and over and told me there was not even a single bubble in the system. He said from what he can see, the circuit is working fine. The slave and master look to be operating. He told me he replaced the fork on his WRX, which he claimed makes 338kw at all 4 lol, as he was having a similar issue. Ive got another mechanic coming tomorrow to look at it. I'm not gonna say what Ive done, I want to see what they say. I really don't want to have it towed and get the box pulled out of its not a internal issue

Tried it again today, no luck. Called lube mobile. No luck. The guy said that the problem might actually be the clutch fork, because there is pressure only when the clutch is like 2" from the firewall. He said there is absolutely no air in the system and that the slave and master look to be working fine. I still cant get into any gears. This is frustrating.

When the clutch is held down and the bleeder is open, do I let it run the fluid then close it or do I pump the pedal then hold it down then shut the bleeder. And when you refer to the bleeder, is it all the bleeder points or just the slave? If it's all of them, do I start from the master and work down?

Hey all, Before I started the job, I was having clutch issues. The master cyl was dead. I found a guide on removing and replacing. This went nice and smoothly. I found another guide on bleeding the system. To this point, I still have no pressure at all on the clutch. What I done: I completely drained the all the old fluid out of the system. I changed the cylinder. Replaced the fluid. Left the bleeder on the slave open and the cap off the master cyl and pumped and filled and pumped and filled. I still have no pressure. I followed a guide on here which told me to bleed the master, disconnect the hose from the master. Disconnect the hose from the master to the little box thing, bleed the box thing, disconnect the out hose from that thing, bleed the slave. Still nothing. There is a weird ass pipe which is like a big U and it has a bleeder on the end of it. What the fruck is that? Can someone tell me what I need to do. I done all this by my self(one person) so it might be the reason. Is it necessary to disconnect all these pipes and fittings? Isnt the purple of the bleeders to let the air out not ripping the whole system apart? Advice info etc would be great. My main question though, do I do all this with the lid OFF or ON the master cylinder. I was told off to allow the system to suck the fluid through. R33 GTST Series 2.

Not too shabby of a method. Provided you have a nice flat surface. People worrying about losing their hands. I doubt very much you need to apply such pressure onto the bastard to start shaving the wheel. Light pressure and keep your hands away from the gears. I would have tried this except my rims aren't silver, they're painted and I cbf matching the paint.

Hey all, I know my gearbox needs a couple of things done to it but I thought I should list the things I know are wrong with it and people could help tell me what the causes and solutions would be. In no real order, these are the issues: When reversing or in first gear and say getting into a parking spot, I clutch in then slowly out, start moving, then clutch in. At this point I get a loud clunk from the box. I was told the clutch or something else could be warped or not fitted flush. When the clutch is depressed(off the clutch), I get a whirring sound. Regardless if its in gear, neutral or moving. Sometimes when I go to stop I will clutch in, put it in neutral, stop then release the clutch. When I release the clutch I sometimes get a deep thud sound. If I drive faster than say 140km in 5th gear then try to downshift into 4th, the gear wont go in. It grinds HARD. It literally feels like I didnt press the clutch. I gotta back off the clutch and then clutch in again and it goes in. Anyone know the causes to these problems? The most annoying are the first and last. I dont like grinding gears and I dont like a noisy clunky box. Anyone know any reputable specialists in Sydney and estimated costs for this kind of job?

Dude, PM. If you're sydney ill pick it up today.

I NEED ONE PM ME!

I've got a set of bilstien shocks and whiteline springs. Located Sydney can drive down if you're interested.

Cmon!!! I'll take the PFC hand controller! Throw the ecu on eBay it will sell!

Hey man, would you sell the wastegate and screamer? Also do you have the little relay module which attaches to the top of the abs pump? Pm me a mob num or address I'm happy to come down and look, with a wad of cash.

BUMP

Do you know how much camber the kit gives? Does it have an install guide and is it DIY to remove the old and in the new?

Dude sell me the PFC hand controller. Is it for an R33 GTST Series 2?

Pics added with bump! Price is very negotiable but no ridiculous offers!

Hey all, Ive been searching my ass off for the hand controller and cant find one and I dont really want to pay for a brand new one. PLEASE if anyone has one, this could be a very quick sale. Also need the little black unit which attaches to the top of the ABS pump. PREFERABLY one thats working and the relays are in working condition. Willing to buy Sydney or interstate i dont care I just need the parts. PM or POST!

What wheels are those on that R32 GTR ^?

Hey all, I got a 1996 gtst and the abs light has come. There appears to be no braking issue though. It brakes just as hard and fine. The light is intermittent. Sometimes the light comes on sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes I turn the car off and on and it goes away. Now I could just connect a Nissan consult but the problem is I've got a power fc computer. Can I sill diagnose? What should I check? I found a thread about replacing on of the relays buy the damn abs box is a pain in the ass to open? Any ideas? Cheers

BUMP. Shit, forgot to include its an 05 model. If there is any minute interest pending pics, please don't hesitate to ask!

Hey all, Selling our Holden Commodore VZ Lumina. Car is a 3.8L V6 175alloytec motor. Car is in almost excellent shape. Has a scrub on the rear bumper which can be buffed out, it was on the car when we got it. The car has 41000KM's on it. It comes with log books and has had the 3 main services performed and is due for the next. Has a couple of issues but I don't think they are problems with the car. They might be specific to the build. The blinker sometimes gets stuck when you arm and disarm the lock. Sometimes the car takes a little longer to start than usual. A fair few commodores we saw(VZ and VY) suffer from this. The car drives just fine. No issues there. Maybe a new relay for the indicators will fix that issue and a clean up of the spark plugs. 41000km service, it hasn't had new plugs. They may have exceeded their lifespan. Conact via email: [email protected], [email protected] Contact Number: 0401838551 I will add few pics tomorrow. Please email or PM here to arrange a viewing. Asking $14000. Car has a brand new touch screen head unit fitted in. This can be removed to drop the cost. If Ive missed any crucial info PM me.

exactly this. As long as nothing is limiting the turbo, it will boost til it blows. What the max is and what the same threshold is are two very different figures.

Is it just the dump pipe or a whole dump/front pipe. Its basically like the picture, thats what I'm after. Where abouts in Sydney?

Basically after something like that but not plumbed back. I know ive got a straight pipe from my turbo to my cat but I have no idea what length it is, what diameter etc but it looks like this. I'm in Sydney and would pref something I can pick up. I dont care for brand, as long as your pipe isnt rusted and cracked.

Those spikes won't be enough to kill the engine but they're not gonna help in prolonging it's life. If your car was tuned to make 330atw on 20psi then tuning your gain down will not affect it as the car was tuned on 20psi. Honestly, leave it man. Your pistons aren't going to shoot through your block. They are pretty strong. A rb26 is good for about 500hp without changing engine internals. Strong motors. I think r31 thought you meant gtst maybe?

There are no leaks as its not when its boosting. It can still be in vacuum and it creates the sound. ^ I have no idea what any of those are but it looks like a standard turbo to me and I doubt it has anti surge housing as it still surges on low boost. Ive tried recording it, but its not audible. It needs to be heard in person. It sounds like friction, not a whistle.