SargeRX8

How much for the short shifter? Does it have fitting instructions? Pics of the japanese muffler and how much? Is it one of those nice deep but quiet mufflers? I dislike my cannon. Edit: Also sydney for convenience.

Nasty man Hope the rebuild all goes well. Well look at it this way, if you put stronger pistons, valve springs and other parts, you can really build your self a drift monster now

The weakness in the stock turbos is their turbines and the bearings. A stock turbo can push 12psi with minimal lag as its optimized for your car. Highflowing the turbo will bring in a new turbine and ballbearing setup with the same boosting characteristics as previous. You will be able to hit boost faster than say, upgrading to a bigger turbo(GT3076 for example). Although a newer turbo may flow more air and create more pressure, your turbo is built for your car and improving your turbo will give you a significant boost. I'm running a highflowed VL turbo with a GT3071 BB turbine. Comfortably boosts 16psi and I can hit full boost by about 3krpm, positive boost at about 2krpm. Welcome to the world of upgrading turbos. Where there are so many f**king variables, your brain will explode. I'm in the process of upgrading my highflowed to something which can push more HP at lower boost. Read my thread for some ideas about turbos(its called Need Clarification or some shit).

Hmmm after having a closer look, the bolts actually look like studs with a nut... Is that incorrect? Are the bolts under the heatshield? Looking over at justjap, are these what I need if i break bolts? http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1

Is your AFM between your IC piping? I was just curious as it would seem strange if oil was coming back through the turbo if the AFM is infront of the turbo.

Awesome, I shall pick some of them up from repco! Did you manage to emove the bolts by hand? Do you recall the size and thread pattern of the bolt?

Part of mr is sure I'm gonna break some bolts. I've found specialized tools to remove broken head bolts. You drill into them then reverse screw this device in the forwards drive the device to remove the bolt. Where could I buy replacement bolts? Would high tensile bolts be fine? Are there Nissan replacements? Kits with manifold gaskets? Yeah I didn't think I'd need an air wench lol. Hopefully I can undo them by hand!

Good advice man. First thing I done was covered up the pod on my R33. Got some black perspex and made a small box for it. My car looks stock standard my only issue is my exhaust is a little loud and a little low. I gotta fix that but the exhaust shop reckons my car is too low. Its almost stock height! Its just one part of the exhaust, not even the cannon. Its like where the muffler joins into the exhaust system around the HICAS area. Toot on.

Hey all, Ive done some mechanical work in the past but nothing this extravagant. Ive identified everything I need to remove to take out the old manifold. Ive got all the parts I need. My only concern. Will I break bolts in the block? I was told to make sure the engine is COLD and to spray the bolts with some WD40 to help loosen them up. What are the chances of breaking bolts and if I break them, can they be removed? Also when I put it all back together, how tight should the bolts be? Air wrench tight? As hard as I can push the ratchet?

Had my car dyno'd today at CRD. Specs: Rb25det with stock internals 550cc nismo injectors Bosch 040 fuel pump Nismo Fuel Pressure Regular Hybrid? FMIC Rebuilt VL turbo with Garret 3071 turbine Greddy Profec B spec 2 boost controller Old Tuned PFC(In desperate need of a tune Shitty pod filter Made 225rwkw on 14psi and 5200n torque. Cant edit my above post?

0.7bar wont cause any damage to your turbo or engine. Does it hit .7bar every single time you pass 5000rpm or is it random? Check the vac lines on the actuator make sure they're seated nice n tight.

Hmm, my mates camry had a leaky headgasket. Be aware noise can escape the headgasket. You will lose.... well alot of everything, oil, pressure, power etc. Wipe away the oil and take it for a normal drive. If there is oil coming out then you need to change the gasket. If there is no oil, take it for a hard drive and then check again. Driving hard increases oil pressure and that will cause it to seep from a leaking gasket. Just to double check, you don't have any intake or vac leaks? All intercooler piping connected nice n tightly? Just double check. Also check if you've got any cracks in your headers.

My brain exploded. Alright, Ive seen to grasp the concept of what were saying here now with pressure and air volume etc. So basically a 400hp turbo will always run 400hp of air regardless of the pressure? There are so many variations of the GT3076. I found some for $450, some for $700, some for $1000 and some for $2200.... I'm going to keep reading about specific turbos. I know I need a new manifold and a few other parts so I can get them before I get the turbo.

Well that depends on the purpose of the silicone. Are you trying to retard water and keep moisture out? Are you trying to make a seal? If you're trying to keep water out, get a silicone which is safe for plastics(some of them have harmful fumes which can deteriorate plastics). Did this start all of a sudden? Did you change anything? Is your engine running rich or lean? If its rich its unburnt fuel, if its lean, it could cause popping and it could mean your fuel pump is failing and falling behind when hitting high boost.

I doubt it has anything to do with the coilpack cover as there are people who sell custom vented ones to let out heat. Have you had the engine bay washed or detailed? Does it pop constantly while accelerating?

So you gotta make a sacrifice... This is complicated stuff lol. I'll see what my uni has for books to gather more info. Ive read alot about the GT3076 and it does look like the turbo I'm after. But they seem more commonly used on 2.0L motors. Reading here and there are a fair few running them on their RB25's with good results but after reading about getting exhaust out of the turbo quicker, I wonder if the extra 2 pistons will produce enough heat and exhaust gases to hinder performance... Put it simply, if I get a GT3076 with t25 flange + a t25 to t3 flange adapter will I get good results? Any benefits in going externally gated over internally gated? I read that externally gives you better control on boost and helps rid heat from the turbo more effectively. DAMN THIS IS COMPLICATED! I also <3 Nazeeee haha

It's all coming together now. So the psi rating is the rating of how compressed the air is while the up rating is how much of it is being blow through the turbo! I never thought of the hp measurement. Everywhere I've read is psi psi psi. Ok with this new attained knowledge, at with 18psi of air, how much flow would be suitable to ensure I don't make my motor explode? I'm targetting for about 280rwkw with supporting mods while the engine internal remain intact(I don't want to start changing pistons, valve springs etc). Now I Donn know what to look for, slot of turbos I see run like 500hp of air. Another factor to consider!

Ok I'm in the process of picking parts to upgrade my current turbo. Ive asked for help with some people but someone gave me information which has stumbled me. I said to him "I'm after a turbo which will comfortably be able to push 19psi". He then replied and said to me "A small turbo pushing 19psi will flow 200hp of air while a big turbo pushing 19psi will flow 400hp(for example) and the bigger turbo will blow your engine".... What the hell? Isn't 19psi of boost just that, 19psi of air going into the engine? If it was anymore, it would be higher. I don't understand. My current turbo is a rebuilt VL turbo with a Garret 3071 turbine. I'm looking at upgrading to a bigger T3 turbo(going to get something used rather than something new, or get one of those monsta turbos off ebay(I know they're cheap and people say they're crap, but everyone who has bought one hasn't had any issues with them)). Anyone shed light?

All the group buys are closed

Can that BOV be tightened up? Will it hold up to 19psi? Direct bolt on to my rb25 pipe? Pretty keeeeen

Hey all, Ive got an RB25DET and I'm after a custom coilpack cover. I don't want to customize one but I saw a group buy from a couple years ago of some custom made ones which looked awesome. I want it mainly to help vent out heat from the top of the motor. Anyone know where I can get one? Cheeeers

I'm desperate for some Castor rods. If anyone has any which do NOT use the rubber bushes, the pillow bearing design, post here. If you are in Sydney you get preference coz I am DESPERATE FOR THE PARTS. I dont care what brand this or that. I just need to replace the bushes on my car as theyre worn but was advised getting the pillow bearings design would be better than forking out 300 for urethane/nol what ever + install. If i buy these rods I can install my self then get a wheel alignment. PM ME or post here.

Can you show me a pic of the caster rods? Are they for the front? Everywhere Ive seen, they say they fit an R33 GTST. If this is true, and these are the pillowbearing type, I am happy to take them from you. I can pickup.

You wanna sell the 4 bushes for the rear cradle?

On an R33 id say some Buddyclub P1s or gold Volk GTC.