SargeRX8

If I just want to pop the cover off, should I remove the neg terminal? My car has an aftermarket steering wheel which came fitted when it was imported from Japan. This leads me to believe either A, they legitimately wanted an AM wheel(for what ever stupid reason) or B the car was in an accident and the cover was just popped back on and the genuine wheel replaced with an AM wheel. There are no cosmetic or visual factors to determine an accident. This airbag thing will give me a solid base. The airbag light comes on, then turns off but its not hard to install a resistor to fool the system.

What? Wouldn't a blown seal cause oil to seep into the intake causing blue burning smoke? Every single car I have ever seen or been in blows smoke when boost comes on and the car is booted. What, does everyone have a faulty turbo? My mate has a evo9, it does it. My mate has a wrx, it does it. Ive seen a fair few R33's do it and moreso on R34's. What happens when you come on boost? YOU BURN PETROL. What happens when you burn petrol, you get black smoke. Check the tune. Put it on rollers and check the AFR when boost comes. Does he have excess smoke residue on the rear bumper?

Does this cover just pop off? Any chance of detonating the air bag if there is one in there? I need to clean the seam in the dash and also check if there IS an airbag in there lol.

PM Sent

Hey all, I'm looking to maybe trade off my wheels and tires. They are the BuddyClub P1 wheels in 18" with 245's rear and I think 235's or 225's front. I have no idea what the offset is but I know they fit on my R33 GTST S2 and there is VERY minor wheel scrub on the plastic inside guard(my car is of lowered height also). All wheels are in perfect condition with exception to the rear passenger side which has experienced some gutter rash. I did not buy or put these wheels on my car, they came on it. I don't know what I'm after, but all I know is I do NOT want shiny chrome. Looking for maybe gold, bronze or shadow chrome? Maybe if someone has some 18" bbs wheels? I don't want wheels which aren't going to fit. Pics attached. They aren't too great but if anyone is genuinely interested, I can get more pics. Sydney only as it would be a pain in the ass to send and receive wheels.

Bump

I would have taken that BOV had I saw this thread earlier!

If anyone has one, Ive got cash ready to go for the right price. I believe Ive got the standard PowerFC fitted into my s2 r33. Cheers. Will pref sydney so I can pickup but more than willing to trade with reputable interstate sellers.

Im in sydney, can I come check out that pod and intake pipe? Can bring money and will take both off you.

I ordered one!

Anyone here know any place or works with aluminium? I need my induction pipe modified and I can't do it my self due to not having a welder. I need a BOV return attached to the back end of the induction pipe and I need the BOV return metal pipe modified to suit. I went to a couple of exhaust shops and they can't do it due to their welding machines only suitable for ss ._.

He wouldn't need to show you a dyno sheet. Uni group said his pipe was shutting and choking the turbo. His car didn't gain more power, its just running the way it should be. I got a metal intake pipe and am having stalling issues. 99% sure its due to the way the BOV return is lined up. Look at the way it is in the silicone pipe, it points to the turbo and is very far from the AFM. I need to have my pipe modified.

Its been blocked off. Note everything was 100% working perfectly before I installed the metal pipe. That is ALL i done to cause this. I need to have the bov return pipe blowing towards the turbo. One bit of returned air touching the maf will give the ecu a reading and in turn a squirt of petrol

Is the apexi filter the 500-a022?

Pics: Would that return pipe be the issue? I don't want to take it out, have it worked on, then reinstalled if its still going to cause issues.

All I did was remove the old rubber pipe and install a metal pipe. I had the catch can since I bought the car and I never had an issue. I was looking at the design of the old rubber pipe and the return line is very close to the turbo and also actually angled and pointing at the turbo. This new one is much further up, closer to the AFM and is pointing straight down into the pipe. I checked for leaks today, found none. I checked all my wiring, its all fine. The return for the BOV is a little after the bend in the pipe. Ill get a picture. Also the car is giving a loud pop now I think due to the extra fuel during boost release. I was told by CRD today that they can eliminate the problem by putting it on dyno and diagnosing the issue. It could cost up to 1k to fix the problem and do a full custom tune for my car. Gotta be a cheaper option out there for now. Putting the rubber pipe back on is not an option. I might get the return line for the BOV modified to face the turbo or have it relocated closer to the turbo. Would the afm being moved into the IC piping before the throttle body help this issue?

If I drive slow without out boosting the car will not stall. It idles fine but when off boost it dies. The only thing I unplugged was the z32 plug.

Hey all, Well I bought a r33 metal intake pipe for my car. I bought it from a member here and he has already suggested some things to try which I will in the morning. Basically, I ripped out the rubber intake pipe and replaced it with an aluminum one. It has all the necessary ports for the BOV return and the oil air breather(which I had to block off due to using a oil catch can). I'm pretty sure everything is tight but now everytime I hit boost and clutch in the car will either struggle to stay alive or stall and there is a noticeable loss of power during power shifts. Any ideas? I never had an issue with my stock pipe. If everything is tight, could I have damaged something? What are the possibilities and what should I be checking? Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated. P.s I am loving the new sound!

Ive got the same cooler. I didn't fit it in but it requires you to make a hole on the driver side to run the piping back. Would you sell the piping from the IC? I need the pipe with the mounting bracket.

Will pickup the intake pipe if the sale falls through. Where you located?

No longer interested in a trade I'm guessing? I'm sick of my BuddyClub P1's

In and out doesn't cause any friction. Side to side, the turbine can hit the walls of the turbo and chip.

How much + post for the passenger side door mirror? Does the motor work fine?

Hey all, Ive found it literally impossible to determine which belt is causing the squeal but its embarrassing. Everytime I stop at lights, it squeals. Slowly accelerating, it squeals. My only solution is spraying wd40 on the belts everytime I pull out of the drive way. I was trying to narrow down which belt it was and by sound, I can't. Is there a technique? What I did notice though is the alternator belt is not spinning straight. When you watch the belt as it rotates it isn't like sitting in one part of the groove. Its hard to explain but its not like staying straight. From top view the belt looks like its not aligned. Its not loose though. Any ideas? How much to change this? Could I do it my self?

Do those alloy subframe collars fit onto the r33gtst s2 subframe?