SargeRX8

Did you have to remove the diff? I found a guide on the net which tells me how to install pineapples or something. Are those what I need or are pineapples just spacers or something?

Are these called pineapples? I cant find anything called x mounting bushes. The closest thing I found rear cradle bushes.. If thats them, WOW the parts only cost $120. I would install these parts my self but how would I obtain a 5ton press to press in the caster bushes?

I was quoted $390 to fit heavy duty castor bushes and also told that my rear x mounting bushes are wearing out and the whole rear might be affected by swaying etc. I was quoted $980 for the rear bushes. $980 for 4 pieces of rubber to get squeezed onto my car..... What the f**k? Is that a normal price? What should I be paying for these jobs?

I have no idea where its coming from. There is some coolant like substance(not dense like oil, but oiler than water and well, its green) in the passenger footwell and some in the driver footwell. If I lift up my floor mats, the bottom of them show signs of moisture. The shit doesn't dry up that well because its slightly oily. The heater core has a leak in it but it has been blocked off a very long time ago. I have vacuumed and blown the remaining coolant out of the heater core a while back. Its not water because it hasn't rained. How can I narrow this down? What are the entry points for coolant in the cabin apart from the heater? Is it in the air con system? Where is the air con drip thing? Could that be leaking into the car?

Any metal induction pipe for the 33? Any After market bov?

You reckon this would fit in an r33? Ive got a z32. Couldnt I just use a suitable silicone adapter to fit the mouth onto the turbo?

Keen on the braided lines, silicone connectors. Do you have any 3" to 2.5"? Any reducers around that size. Any BOV suitable for rb25 flange? Will you post to Sydney? If so how much?

Hey all, Looking for an after market, adjustable, plumb back bolt on BOV. HKS plumb back, greddy plumb backs what ever so long it holds 19psi boost and is adjustable! Also desperately seeking some silicone connectors. Need a couple of 2.5" to 2.5" couplers and some 2.5" to 3" couplers! Preferably cheaper than I can find I dont really care about cosmetic condition. As long as there are no tears in the silicone connectors and the BOV works then its all good! I'm in Sydney and can pickup but I am more than happy to pay for delivery costs! I WONT WASTE YOUR TIME IF YOU HAVE WHAT I NEED!!!! PM ME or post here!

How far out are you from Parramatta area?

I figured that but 1.7psi over the limiter. I was losing traction and straight away backed off because I knew it was too high. My car's high boost is designed to run 16 - 17 psi but its not tuned for that level yet so I'm trying to keep it safe and healthy. I need someone to monitor my boost gauge so I can properly get some WOT and see what boost I maintain.

Ive had this thing in my car since I bought it. The guy I bought it from had it set to ROUGHLY 14psi but it would over boost. Ive been playing around with settings for what, 3 months? And still can't get it to work properly. I had it at one point set to 20%, 5%, 11psi, 14psi, 15% but the piece of shit wont let me hold boost. It goes up and drops, up and drops. I managed at one point to get it to work without hitting the limiter but it would only work on low boost. Ive tried literally every set of settings I could find to get the thing to run 14psi. The current settings I'm using which I got from some UK skyline forum(and are good for 1bar/14psi) are 44%, 25%, 11.5psi, 15psi, 20%. Ok so my limiter is set to 15% yet it will still boost to 16psi peak... SOMEONE HELP ME BEFORE I TEAR THIS THING OUT OF MY CAR! I need settings. Ill put my engine specs here. NEW turbo with the latest Garrett 3071 ball bearing turbine Nismo 550cc injectors Z32 AFM Nismo Fuel pressure regulator Trust profec B spec 2 electronic boost controller Apexi Power FC Front mount intercooler with custom aluminium piping Kakimoto catback exhaust Stainless steel dump pipe High flow cat Tomei Adjustable exhaust cam gear Bosch 040 fuel pump I dont need links to how to sites. I NEED SETTINGS!!!

Hi, I just want to know the ups and downs of moving the AFM closer to the TB. Some people say it helps give a more accurate reading. Others say its just better overall. Some say it doesn't do shit. I want to clear up the mess at the front of my induction pipe so its neat n tidy with the pod filter. My main concern is the oil which gets into the intercooler system from the turbo. I know its not a problem so long you don't have a buggered turbo but regardless, there will be oil in the intake pipes. Would this hinder the performance of the AFM? The car runs fine but I was playing around with the BOV and the car would stall if I block my BOV. Thanks!

If you were to separate the power FC, how much for the hand controller?

Hey all, I got an AFR gauge and would like to fit it in. Alot of people are saying wire it to the pinout on the ECU. Ive got a power FC and there are a million and one wires coming out of it. Which wire is it for the o2 sensor? I don't feel comfortable wiring directly from the o2 sensor. Please any help would be much appreciated.

I'm assuming the sound of a failing turbo would be distinct. If you aren't sure, you could take it to a mechanic who specialises in installing turbos. I doubt boost leak. If it was a boost leak you would still get the spooling sounds, just no performance, or severely less performance. Is it the ceramic turbo or have you had a stainless steel turbine put in it? You can buy stock R33 turbo's for a couple hundred dollars or have your one rebuilt for a little more and run it on more boost.

I too will say clutch. Your clutch was not engaging the drivetrain and just frying with all the friction.

I don't really know the mechanics behind it but I know, from what Ive driven, my car does pick up speed at lower rpm quicker than a stock r33. That's all I was trying to say in my last message lol. Its not too bad. The ass of the car just slides abit from side to side when I'm in the higher rpm range. Ive got bilstein shocks with whiteline springs. I don't know how to adjust the shocks, they might be a little stiff. Tyres are KU31's with about 90% all round. I think I need to deflate the tyres abit so they sit abit flatter. I'm hoping strut bars will somewhat help to keep the car flatter.

Haha sounds like an awesome trip man. Yeah I don't care about the fuel consumption because every kilometer I drive is so f**king fun haha. I just took my brother for a drive, boost and turning is so much fun ahahaha. Just hold first gear, tap the throttle and you get a sexy slide. Ill keep you informed. If I find a suitable turbo which will handle 17psi and be a direct bolt onto my dump pipe and manifold, ill upgrade and let you know!

It is alot of fun indeed but very bad on petrol haha. I like the performance of the turbo, I just hope I can rely on it. Yeah, its a straight bolt onto the old manifold, just needed a new dump pipe I think. The heat shield for the turbo had to be taken off though.

The reason is reliability. I don't know if its the turbo or my profec II boost controller which isn't configured properly but very rarely when I've hit full boost, I feel a drop in boost at high rpm until I move into the next gear. The problem seems to have gone since Ive sat there for about 40mins configuring the controller and I'm hoping it stays that way. Another reason I'm concerned is how much the parts can take. He told me that the turbine he had installed in the turbo is a very strong turbine and thats what Ive read but the turbine was designed for another housing and because its a rebuild, it will never be manufacturer standards. I'm going to rip off the pipe on the front of the turbo one day to see if there is any shaft movement. I start creating 0 vacuum at about 1500rpm and boost will peak at about 3000 - 3700rpm on low boost and high boost respectively. Before I bought this car, I drove quite a few skylines. The response is ALOT better but this could be due to the fact that I hit boost earlier than a stock car and also the fact that a stock skyline peaks boost above 4500rpm. The power is insane. High boost, the car will not stay straight and I will burnout in first and second gear at high rpm's. I can't launch the car coz I tried once and just sat there doing a burnout so I just do slow starts then punch it. Alot of people say Ive got nothing to worry about, but its my first turbo car and I just haven't yet adapted to them and to what they can do. The first time I bought it and hit boost I honestly thought something was going to break but the guy is like you get over that feeling quickly once you realise how strong the car is and how much more it can take.

You are going to have to consider the piping behind the bar. The water bottle for windscreen wipers and coolant are right behind the front RHS of the car. You could use another R34 sidemount and flip it so it mirrors the other intercooler.

Well lets look at it like this, its a common practice to have two sidemounts. It wouldn't be done if there were no benefits. All benefits come with their losses. Bigger exhaust, less back pressure. Pod filter, heat intake. Bigger turbo, turbo lag etc. But the gains are there. What I mean by delay, is the air has a longer distance to travel through all the intercooler piping before it gets to the piston housing. I don't think it would cause any performance issue once the air is fed through, but again I'm not too sure.

I cant vouch for it, but theoretically speaking the air has more room and more distance to travel. It *could* cause delay. Due to the extra room in there, it *could* cause a drop in pressure as it will take more air to fill the chambers. Don't take what I say as facts, I'm not sure. Someone correct me.

The guy had some turbo rebuilt, I think he got the turbo from a VL, and had a company in lane cove I think put Garrett 3071 ball bearing turbine into it. They said it should be good up to 18 - 20psi but he would have to change the headgasket on the engine and a few more internals. Injectors and fuel pump are good to go but the coil packs may get too hot and need something better suited. The guy I bought it from has been running it how he has for quite a while and never had any issues so it should be fine I guess. I'm planning to change the turbo as I personally do not feel comfortable running rebuilt turbo's. This is what I want to get. Its a direct bolt on for the standard manifolds and dump pipes on the r33. I dont know what it is but these are the specs lol Power rating: 560HP Turbo Housing: .70AR Compressor Housing: .50AR Flange type: T3 Cooling: Oil and Water (I heard it requires abit of work to setup the cooling) Bearing type: 360deg Thrust Bearing Actuator: Internal gate. The guy claims this turbo will handle 16psi with a breeze.

Thats actually a brilliant idea. Did you have to have to make the hole for your intercooler piping bigger to fit the piping through? I mainly want this for the awesome look but I hate paying for aesthetics when something alot cheaper and DIY can perform the same function. Do you have a photo of your setup?