Kenna802

HI, I am currently looking at another car and would like to sell mine, R33 series 2 Automatic, White with gun metal grey mags, Mods: 3000rpm stall convertor from TCI Kakimato s/steel exhaust to convertor, than Apexi front pipe, ATR43G3 Turbo Brand new Yellow Jacket coils ( in box ) new injector wiring harness, Z32 AFM 600cc injectors Emanage Ultimate Ecu Toshi chip Gen Walbro Fuel Pump with Mod Motor is about 5000 Kays old CP Pistons ( standard size) ACL race series bearings, Ross Racing harmonic balancer, Performance springs for the Head Metal head Gasket Pioneer head unit Burglar alarm Front and Rear Strut Brace Carbon fibre Air Intake KN Filter Car made 218 rwkw at 18 psi with misfire ( Dead Coil ) OK to be Honest Head Gasket is Blown ( not majorly ) and i have just lost all motorvation for this car, I have put blood sweat and tears into this and it has broken me. I want $5000 ono I wil post pics up tommorow arv Car has got rego but will expire this month 0413620712 I live in the Kingaroy region about 2.5 hours from Brisbane Paint work is in good Condition

Can't argue with that , I think though everyone has to learn the hard way lol I do !!

No Offence Nismoid but you have handled this BOV thread very well, I was actually starting to believe that you hated BOV's and would destroy anyone that had one. I almost wondered if you would offer money for people to send there old BOV's in if they went back to reticulation ( just a thought lol) anyways i had a BOV and have gone back to retic I have now noticed car runs much better down low before boost and spool up time and also keep MIster Plod away as well.

less than 10 percent is a good result and afaik hot results usually give better compression

How about you post this in the "upload video's " section?

am currently using emanage ultimate at the moment and at idle the timing seems to be all over the place, if i left it at 0 on the map the car idles high ( 1000rpm ) so have cut it back abit

Hi i have a r33 auto, car idles at about 780rpm but if i look at the data logger the timing is going from -4 to 110 degrees it will sit at -4 than just jump to 110 than back to -4 any ideas, i have had the car dynoed and have went from 94 rwkw's with bad plugs to 220 rwkw with new plugsbut still ignition issues from 3400 rpm the coils are only about 13 months old ( yellow jackets) any help would be great Thanks Ken

Northside 4x4 has moved from calbuture ( how ever its spelt) to northlakes ( mango hill..kallanger U get the idea )

just check that both the unit and software are the same version, and maybe try a new usb lead that said mine drops out all the time ....

any time ill wrap them 2night and post em off 2morrow

What the? I asked this same question about 3 months ago and got bugger all answers...so slow and steady was the way for me

SOLD

SOLD

hi there set of new adjustable cam gears built by dna $100 for the 2

ok here is the unit and bits just looking for reciept .

I will post pics of it tonight as well as the reciept

sure is

HI there, Selling Fuel Pressure Reg with all connections to connect straight into RB25det Brand New with ALL Connections $120

A mate had an ol shitbox corolla in which he added an extra line to the rear wheel wheels from the window washer bottle. anytime he wanted to up it he just pressed the button for awesome smokies ( well not that awesome but really did suprise people when it spun) sigh....schoolies was fun

i had same problem, make sure your water line going to the throttle body is bleed properly as if its not it cannot sense the cold water and activate the cold start.

another prob is that the gate looks like it has to move a long way when most valves open and close at a very small gap

Have a look in the z32 afm guide in general maint...also its no good to change AFM unless u can tell the computer that it different. And last its a mother to remove those but it can be done....slowly... from underneath with extension sockets ( great way to spend a fair few hours )

My New motor has 145 across all six. Seems to blow smoke when cold but all good when warm

run in oil was used , and im unsure what clearances were used but they were acl race series bearings

hi there just had a motor rebuild about 1300 kays ago, ( motor was babied for that time untill 1100 kays than put in on run in tune) I was running synx by gw and had no probs but now i have upgraded to motul turbolite and the car blows blue smoke on cold starts untill warmed up??????????? my mechanic said that it could be due to the different detergents used in the oils etc and suggests that i go back using syn x for the time being. Has anyone ever come across this situation? and if so what was your course of action?