grepin

Price drop to $800

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Any chance of posting a dyno pic of this. Thanks

No tyres as written on the other thread. Phone 0412075359 if keen for a look. back in town saturday evening. Phone is out of range where i am until Sat night.

No sorry these dont have tyres anymore. Give me a call if you like to have a look. 0412075359

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http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=57276

Special price for Adelaide buyers only. Fit R33 GTst no problems with no need for guard rolling. How about $800 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=57276

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I have fitted brake pads and fully replaced the fluid myself and bled the system from the calipers myself. Had it on the track since. I was just wondering if I can change lines by undoing the old ones and fitting the new. Can I expext fluid to go everywhere or fully empty the system.

Sorry dont really want to sell them. Just wondering if it gives a better pedal feel..

All fixed. That was the exact problem. Thanks Strutto

With some time off I have a few things I wnat to do. Thanks Again.

High just wondering if your using the RCA out to an amp for subwoofer does it mean that the associated speaker outs are disabelled. Thanks

Had mentioned to me that removing the anti squeal shims can give a better brake pedal feel? What do people think?

High all just picked up some Maltech braided lines and wanted to have a go at fitting them myself as Mechanic is on holidays and always like to have a go myself. For a R33 GTST. Do I need to fully bleed all the fluid and can this be done at the rese? Is it a matter of unbolting the rubber lines and bolting up the new lines? Torqued etc. Can it be done with the car jacked up? Thanks

Cool thanks just wanted to find out before I went to the trouble of opening the tank. I presume you have seen this trouble before.

All of a sudden my car has decided to read full until half a tank and then decides to drop. What could cause this? Thanks

Any tips or hints I may need to know before replacing the standard brake lines on my R33Gtst with braided units. Should I leave it to my Mechanic or have a go myself. I have done the pads and replaced the oil before.

Price Drop to $940..(Cheaper without postage)

Price drop to $900 for SA Buyers

Further to a post I had on here before I am still having boost drop problems at high revs. I am wondering as I have a custom exh manifold wether it could be an issue. Has anyone else had problems with custom manifolds? I have as sujested before put a 20psi spring wastegate (internal) actautor on and the boost always drops to 15psi (regardless of trying to run 19 or 17psi achieved at 5000rpm then dropping) The turbo is a 2835ProS 0.64 Exh A/R and 56Trim 0.5 A/R Comp 420ps. Have a largish internal wategate of 40mm. It may be running out of puff. 40psi has been measured in the turbine housing. Boost is doing exactly the same at the plenum as at the Comp housing across large intercooler and greddy plenum so no leaks. Visually I can see the wastegate starting to open before max revs have reached. I have a good flowing 3.5inch dump fitted. I am wondering as a test wether I should bolt on a standard exh manifold to see if it helps. Idealy I would like to be able to hold 18psi right across the rev range. Various boost controllers have been tried all do the same. I am making around the 285rwkw dropping to 15psi boost which I am happy with however its anoying knowing I cant hold boost.

RB25 with Greddy plenum, exhaust manifold, RB25 Head with HKS Cams and larger calves, 3.5inch exhaust, has made 300rwkw with dropping boost due not being able to hold the wastegate shut.

Hi I am wondering for my 2835Pro turbo wether it would be worth going to a larger exhaust A/r if my current .64 A/r has huge amounts of back pressure. I have a hI flowing dump fitted however I am unable to hold the wastegate (internal) shut in the high rev range. Have a 20psi actuator fitted. Measured inside the exhaust housing pressures close to 40psi. Tried various boost controllers. Thanks