grepin

Yes I will take any spares you have that gives me, like i posted before IEBC, HC, cable and book. Let me know the cost and I will deposit. I have your bank account details.

Back from OS. Is it too late to place an order. If I can I am after. IEBC, HC, Cable and book $127.70 If you can, do it, and I will deposit the money as soon as I know its OK. Thanks

Its not electronic in anyway.

http://www.hiperboost.com/ I have a second hand one of these for sale. Bought as I thought it would help my boost issues. Wastegate opening early however nothing will help as it is physically being pushed open. The wastegate control brings boost on hard. Selling for half price. $199.00 Drop to $150 Worth it for the wastegate controller alone.

It may appear that because my PS2 has got a Mod chip it has locked my network adapter out. Has anyone got a network adapter working with a mod chip?

Can I please get everything needed for the boost control kit. I am off overseas on Tuesday so would like to have the order up and running by Monday night so it will be waiting for me when I return. Will need to be posted to Adelaide. Thanks

On a standard RB25 bottom end. I have head work however.

Yes that is right. I have actually measured the exhaust housing pressure to be around 40psi. I have what is quoted actuator of 20psi however what I do know is with the PFC set to less than 1.4 bar it cuts, indicating as you know it would be around that as a base value. What confuses me is that by just putting compressed air into the housing against the spring pressure it wont lift off until it reaches 20psi. However in normal operation I can physically see the actuator lift off at around 5000rpm. I have provided a pic of the boost curve with the standard 1 bar HKS actuator. One thing i know is if I held the actuator closed it ramps up nice and hard. Must be something to do with the physics of the wastegate flap being quite large compared to most providing a large surface area. As you can see the turbo is still holding power with boost dropping off so is not running out of puff I guess. Cheers

So Sydneykid have you decided to chuck the PFC control kit for the Jaycar unit yet. The reason I ask is that I am using a PFC control kit however my wastegate gets pushed open quiet early in the rev range. I have done everything possible to stop this. Running 20psi actuator (my boost aim) extra spring, tensioning, lengthening the control arm. My car has a HKS 2835pro making 290rwkw however loosing heaps of torque mid range due to actuator opening early. I have all but given up short of going external gate and this kit might help a bit.

Zero you buy one and I will take the other.

Does anyone know of a good place in Adelaide for PS2 repairs.

Having been trying to play on the net with my PS2 however keep getting a DNAS 402 error. Believe my PS2 could be broken. Anyone heard of this problem.

Do they have the 4 bolt pattern on the back to bolt straight to the airflow meter. If so would you sell one of them. The long side holes measure 9.25cm and the short side measure 5cm from the center of the holes.

Just wondering if the steering wheel package is the go when buying GT4. Have tried wheels in the past and could either take it or leave it. Would there be a better wheel out there to use?

Just out of interest where do you go to download these programs.

RB25 head with GTR HKS 265/9.5 cams. Solid lifters fitted VVT disconnected. The valves were binding so had to go to GTR inlet valves and SR20 exhaust valves. HKS cam gears. Made 300rwkw with 2835 ProS. Wouldnt say worth it above Pon Cams however when I do a bottom end will come into its own. Did a track day and an O-Ring chewed out my compressor wheel. Thought I had a leak somewhere kept going. Could never find the leak funnily anyway went on a dyno to play with the cam gears which wasnt calibrated so took the power drop due this initially with +4/-2 279rwkw, +6/-6 gained 12kw mid range and lost 7kw up top with torque coming on earlier. 0/+2 shit. Settled on +3/-4 with 289rwkw up top with a little loss of mid range KW however kept same torque. All this with a chewed up compressor wheel. Embarassing really. Turbo comes back next week after a month at Garretts sourcing a new wheel.

My turbo has eaten an O-ring and consequently need a new Compressor wheel. The turbo has beeen sitting at Garretts for a month where they have identified a new wheel however have none in Australia and are getting the run around from the USA. If anyone have any other possible options please let me know. The rest of the turbo is fine. Be warned the O-ring came from a Trust type R BOV. Right after I had just fitted a plumb back system. Interestingly the car still made 285rwkw with a slight weezing noise - thought to be an airfilter noise.

My turbo has eaten an O-ring and consequently need a new Compressor wheel. The turbo has beeen sitting at Garretts for a month where they have identified a new wheel however have none in Australia and are getting the run around from the USA. If anyone have any other possible options please let me know.

What I was thinking. Do this. Be a Guinea pig. Interested to see how you get on.

Yeah thats all that happens. Mine was right across the top of the arch about 10-2. It doesnt pump the guards at all. The purpose is to stop wider tyres from hitting the guards. Mine were hitting before and dont now. Was that the reason you had yours done?

Slammed Mobile Guard Rolling - Jeff Hughes. He comes to you. Have a power supply available for his heat gun. He did my R33 rear guards and was an excellent job. He also did Whatsisname. Cost $60 per arch. 0401400005 www.guardroller.com.au

Bugger

The head has already had the VVt sealed up. Is that what you mean? So being a RB26 I guess it can support more power, however I wonder if it would make more given the same boost etc as on the rB25 bottom end.

There is a test and tune the friday night before. Think its 10 bucks for spectators.

Supposedly had only done 30000km and in good nick. Yeah was considering your sujestion however would prefer going to the rB26 Crank as well in the rB25 bott end - starting to cost. However this way its all there. Just not sure if the head would mate up oK. Surely it would be a good buy just for the crank later on if nothing else.