Borci88

Just trying to revive this thread... Probably a few months off completion though.

Up for sale is my set of Ohlins DFV Coilovers to suit R33 GTR AND R34 GTR. May also fit GTST/GTT of the same years. I have owned these Coilovers since August 2022 and they have done a grand total of one tank of fuel in that time. As you can see there is dust sitting on them from sitting in the car idle. These were removed from the car today 9/8/24 and haven't been cleaned so that the buyer can see the condition. They are essentially in brand new condition. Price: $3,400 These have been optioned with 8kg front springs and 7kg rear springs. https://www.ohlins.eu/en/products/automotive/nissan-skyline-gt-r-r33--29/ RRP is $4,499.

Up for sale is my aluminium core Borgwarner EFR 9174 with 0.92 AR Internal Gate Housing. I purchased this turbo second hand in 2022 with very low kilometres and never got around to fitting it, with it remaining in a box since purchase. Priorities have changed in life and this is now up for sale as the project is not going ahead anymore. As can be seen by the pictures, there is no carbon on the rear wheel or exhaust housing and I am led to believe this has done run in kilometres on a dyno at most, however cannot confirm. It is essentially an as-new turbo. Also included is a Speed Sensor, Turbosmart IWG-75 wastegate actuator and water line fittings. What is in the pictures is all that I have with the item. Welded elbow is to suit Skyline. Please don't ask me if this will suit your car as I am not a professional turbo salesman and won't know. Located: Melbourne

I'll send them an email as well and see if they let the cat out of the bag! At this stage regardless I think it will be 2 SP Mufflers welded into a full stainless system. I assume 4" will suit my EFR9174 perfectly but 3.5" may also be on the cards if that will flow 500kw much the same..

How soon is soon? This was the reply I got from them yesterday: "No unfortunately we don't do a bolt on system for the r33, we can supply mufflers to suit but no pipework. You'll need to tee up a custom system with a local fabricator."

Just seeing if there are any options before I build my own. Looking for a 3.5" or 4" exhaust for an R33 GTR. The quieter the better, not interested in straight through or just a cNon, no titanium either. Cheers

Weird that everybody thinks the terminals wouldn't work. I've had this style set up running on a 33 GTR since 2017 and don't have any fuel pump or heat issues, this is with dual relays and dual fuel pumps. I believe I used the EFI Hardware terminals listed above.

Just remove any shim or pin you like if you don't think it makes a difference. Ignore what Nissan designed. 🙄

Did you buy yours from Seeed directly? I bought from Pakronics after seeing they were located in Thomastown and took the gamble that they weren't shipping from China. Yep got it working, baud rate matches as well as can bus speed. RealDash just doesn't seem to have a nice gauge setup purely for temps and pressures, I don't need anything with a Speedo and tacho!

Alright halfway there, RealDash is now detecting some CAN with a baud rate set to 115200 on both the adapter and RealDash. Now to keep fiddling around to see what I can get it to display.

That's what I will look into today, I'm not sure haltech mentions anything in their software what their can rate is set to? I realise now I have the Endianness selected incorrectly in the app, however I think I did try big and little and had no luck.

Gotcha, getting the occasional flash on the send LED however RealDash is stating it is "Connecting USB Serial" every 5 or so seconds, with a Timeout shown as well in Can Monitor. With the car running neither the Send or Rev. lights activate. Is there anything I need to do on the Haltech NSP software? I would have assumed it would be able to intercept the CAN data without Haltech NSP needing to be updated. I believe Baud rate on realdash matches the adapter as well at 2000000, maybe this is too high?

Alright so I have all the parts required to try this out on a Haltech. Am I right in assuming that I am only using the hi and lo CAN wires and the ground? And that the power wire remains unused?

Unfortunately it makes sense, why would you allow cheaper universal keypads when you have your own ecosystem of products.

I'm now wondering if theres slim pickings that the Haltech setup will work as a can keypad + gauges, and whether or not it's just better to go with an OBD2 Wifi Adapter and have it only display gauges as that's tried and true with Haltech. I can see that that github file was posted in 2021 meaning someone must have tried it out by now and either had some success or failure.. Is there a forum on that website talking about it at all? I certainly can't see one.

That's fantastic, I might start ordering some pieces and report back on if everyone was right and you can use your phone as a can keypad with a Haltech elite. Is the file from GitHub installed into the can analyser or into a file in the haltech elite? @BK are you saying that Haltech elite supports a HALTECH canbus keypad if you're using NSP, or that Haltech elites can support any type of canbus keypad as long as you're using NSP.

Even if it isn't possible to use that converter to end up with a Haltech can keypad using a phone or tablet, do we still think it's possible to use the converter via USB into a phone/tablet and have it display can data? Instead of going the haltech OBD2 Cable and Bluetooth/wifi dongle to your phone/tablet?

Realdash can be setup as a can keypad?? 😳 Is this possible to setup with a phone or similar with a Haltech?

All good mate appreciate your time. I ended up ordering a 6262G in a .85 Twin Scroll T4 housing. That should arrive later this week or the next, but in the interim I came across a Borgwarner EFR 9174 internally gated (I believe .95 AR or thereabouts) going cheap so I snatched that up as well. I'll continue weighing up the pros and cons over the next week but I think even IF the EFR was lazier than the Pulsar, I think the EFR is the much safer bet reliability wise, however I can't picture it being much lazier..

I was buying some fittings the other day at a local workshop and we got to talking about Garrett + Pulsar and he said he had a mate of his that bought a Pulsar turbo that made about 70% of what it should have made, so he switched it to the equivalent Garrett and it made the power stated on the box. That's the ONE experience I know of that was negative, so far I have gotten the impression that they receive overwhelmingly positive feedback. I think for the price they are still very impressive, and I'm willing to take a gamble, as I'm doing 95% of the install/work myself, so if the turbo is shit oh well.. can always replace part down the track. Going back a little bit how people mentioned a G35-900 and then buy a twin scroll housing from ATP in the states, unless I read the prices wrong, for a G35-900 without turbine housing, and then add a nice new twin scroll 1.06 turbine housing, I wouldn't expect to see any change from $5,100 AUD shipped to my door. For that money, may as well just go the tried and true method of an EFR. Anyway we'll see, Sinco manifold is 5+ weeks off by the time it's manufactured, and I think I'll hold off until after summer to pull the turbo side off. I've owned this car 7+ years and I think I've spent about 2 of those summers with a working car...

👀 Sinco has a 5 week backlog and I still want a functioning car throughout summer rather than have it sit there in pieces so don't hold your breath! But I'll start putting money down on parts probably this week..

It does indeed, however it only helps by muddying the waters some more 😛 because that is a very impressive result with not too much lag on what is a stock 26 helped with VCAM and E85.. I still think everythings pointing to a G35-900 however, as I'd like it to come on full boost closer to 4000... however maybe I'm being optimistic.

My fear is that a I'll spend all this money converting to single turbo, and a G30-900 won't even be able to crack 500kw. Both the G30 and G35 come in a .85 Twin Scroll rear housing if I bought a Pulsar version which is good, however if I was to go any bigger AR then I would be sacrificing twin scroll to go to V-Band. I think you and GTSBoy are on the same page and I have been leaning towards the G35 all along (only with one friend of mine screaming in my ear to go G30). I'll need to go back through this thread to find some more results but I seem to remember G35-900s making very good power (500+kW) out of smaller rear housings, something which the older turbos weren't as capable of.. I also see that @Full-Race Geoff is fond of the .6x rear housings and smaller rear housings throughout the entire G series range. I think G35 is going to be the goer but I'll wait a little bit and see if anyone chimes in why that would be a disastrous idea, cheers for your vital input you two!

Not the best pic and rpm or psi are not overlayed, however you can see it is quite linear regardless. This is with the setup listed above.

Hey all, after some advice in regards to what turbo I should be aiming for to replace my aging -5s. If possible, I'm aiming for 500+rwkw without going 35psi, while hopefully still, being more responsive than my -5s. I haven't got a big flowing head and cams so I imagine I will be pushing the single turbo quite hard, however if possible I'd like to remain around the 25psi mark to meet my goals. Tell me I'm dreaming if I am.. My current setup is as follows: Racepace RB28 bottom end RB25 NEO Non-Turbo head with VCT RB25 Neo Turbo STOCK Intake camshaft / HKS 260 degree Exhaust camshaft (mismatch I know) No porting other than removing the humps in the exhaust ports, however the intake and exhaust ports are far smaller than turbo heads -5 Turbos with dumps 3" HKS Exhaust with front pipes and decat E85 Haltech Elite 2500 Approximately 435rwkw @ 23psi I believe it comes on boost at around 4500rpm, unfortunately I don't have a dyno graph with RPM overlay and PSI. As you can see, the head and camshafts are going to be the limiting factor and I'm not looking to change them at this stage. I've been told that a GTX3582RS GEN 2 would be the go-er, which seems like is it roughly equal to a G35-900 anyway.. and even then, due to the small head, would I be better off with a .83 dual V-Band rear housing? Or go larger and get the 1.01 dual v-band rear housing? Pulsar now also sell a .85 twin scroll T4 as well. To sum it all up, I THINK A G30-900 or G35-900 is probably the right turbo for my goals. I was thinking of using the SINCO T4 Twin Scroll mentioned by @Dose Pipe Sutututu as that's barely any more money than a 6booby and seems much better anyway. I assume a G30 isn't going to cut the mustard for 500+kw though? For those who haven't seen, Racepace recently ran up a G35-900 with SIMILAR setup to mine and made 565rwkw on 26psi, I just don't know how laggy it is, although Racepace aren't known for building laggy cars usually. Might need to pop in and see what they say about it. (Pic attached is Racepace build not my car) https://fb.watch/geIcPyDzBs/ Keen to hear everyone's opinions on it as it's quite a rare combo of top and bottom end.