The Mafia

awesome. Do you have their contact details? My mate could fix it, but its probably better I get some people that have dealt with them before to fix it. He said he could and to bring it back to him if I wanted it to, but he lives next door to my ex girlfriend lol. And besides, this force electronics place might know exactly what the problem is.

we checked all of that, the screen isn't actually soldered on - Its held onto contacts via bend tabs. I've tried moving it around but if you move it too much it touches other "touch pins" and the screens starts to skew a little. I've even thought of adding external wires over the circut board to get the power up there. Its power to the back lights, not the screen.

thanks cubes, thats helpful also. I'll see what discopotatohead says about the internals of the turbo. This sounds a little too good to be true?

I have a q45 and it rocks. Seen them around in good nick for $200. Standard - 70mm - 200rwkw Z32 - 80mm - 320rwkw q45 - 90mm - 430rwkw more flow!

can anyone say "big motherf**ker"?

Discopotatohead (and anyone else for that matter) - I need some advice. I currently have the GT30r with the 7 blade to4s wheel, and a RB25 turbo ground out to fit. Come on 15psi at 3200rpm in second. Motor is standard. Running about 112mph I want to go bigger (to this GT35) but I have a few questions 1. Will a ground out Rb25 ex Housing made to fit a GT30 fit the GT35? 2. Is that a bad idea? Or is it possible until I get my built RB30 or RB25 up and running? 3. I want minimal lag, would the Garrett .63 housing be a good choice? 3a. What would its top end be limited to if Running a built RB30 3b. What would the top end be limited to if running a built RB25? 4. I have a Compressor cover on the GT30 which is .7. Its got a Custom bend welded onto it. Could I just buy a GT35 with a .7 Comp cover and swap them? If you haven't relised yet, I'm really trying to do a direct swap from GT30 to 35. I'm hoping the oil and water lines are the same size and location, and the cartridge is similar etc. Apologies if some questions sound stupid.

I've turned my O2 sensor off and left it off for about 12 months. (f**ks my tune otherwise)

you mean for a print out you need both

damn right a quality post - who with half a brain quotes $1800 for a powerfc ? My comment still stands - Bullshit. But wanting a D Jetro does cause a few issues - I'd be going by SK's post, or just getting a standard powerfc with a Q45 AFM if you need the extra flow. I have a q45 and it works a treat with my powerfc. Unless you want a huge ass vent to atmosphere BOV, then the AFM won't do you any favours... But why would you want that?

I know this sounds stupid, but when I did some work in that area I left the AAC valve unplugged and yeah, it wouldn't idle. Plugged it in and off it went. It was on there, just not pushed down enough for contact

bump

too true sk.

I pick the hottest shittiest days and road tune mine. Just out of the way of the blue boys though.

tried that, worked for 2 days.

that bullshit mate. www.nengun.com sell powerfc's for r32s, around the $1300 mark.

I'm not trying to start a fight either, but just remember - My argument is based solely on the fact that you are running a factory and un touched ecu. If its chipped or whatever - then your results could be fairly accurate. I'll still interested in the 1\4 times, and the terminal speed. Keep us posted.

Thought it might be better here because most people runninf forced induction are running a PowerFC. Anyway - My Handcontroller is broken. The Screen works perfect, but the green back light is now very dim. It lights up when I bend the top of the controller a little. I've had my mate look at it (he's an electronics engineer) and he says the board might have proken. When you bend the little tabs and take the screen off, and put it back on, and maybe move it to one side slightly it works for a few days and then goes out again. My main question is though - Does anyone know anyone around australia that fixes them? Thanks guys

wtf? Get a Walboro 250lph pump. I have had one for almost 2 years, can't hear it even if you put your ear to the chassis. Usually go ofr around $180. Try option1 garage.

actually, I'm not having a cry, I'm having a laugh. I had a RB25, PowerFC, FMIC, standard turbo, exhaust, etc. Made 209rwkw. Ran 105mph down the quarter, and was more than capable of running 13's all day everyday, and low 13's with a good launch. But the time don't mean shit, I ran 105mph. I bet any money, my 210rwkw running 105mph, your factory ECU and bullshit 200rwkw will barely be able to scrape 100mph. Dynos are a tuning tool. But somtimes, the figures are just complete bullshit, because dyno operators see people like you coming, bung in some high figures, and then you tell all of your mates, and they go there, get high bullshit figures, and yeah, the dyno operator has the last laugh because he has all of your money, and your down the track wondering why your "200rwkw" is only running 14's and 100mph. I think that sums it up nicely. Oh, and I'm not jealous... I'm running GT30 on the side of my car, its now making 250rwkw+. and running 12's with 112mph+. Maybe I should bring my car to your dyno... It would make 400rwkw eh? (the funny thing is, it would still only run 12's and 112mph+ )

yeap, and you must be happy about the wanker dyno operator giving you bullshit figures. Unless your factory ECU has been remapped, and the turbo either high flowed or replaced with a RB25 turbo, then your figure is bullshit. I bet any of these "figures" are barely able to pull over 100mph down the quarter.

I have my series 2 AFM and plug for sale. Was working perfectly before I took it off and installed a much bigger one. $90 ono Either PM or paceys[at]gmail.com You'll get an almost instant reply from the email, always checking it.

not wanting to insult, but will you take $700... If so, let me know..

lol yeah. I laugh at all the dyno graphs or statements that go up that say 200rwkw out of a R33\R32 with a factory ecu and standard turbo

wish There were dynos like this up here in mackay. My car would have 500rwkw+ on a standard ECU and turbo.

does your ECU have any modifications at all? Or is it aftermarket?