The Mafia

I'm interested. I have been asking a particular guy about this for the LAST 4 MONTHS. He put me off a week at a time. Then eventually gave up. The ONLY reason I want to change to one is because if I dropa 3l bottom end in, I don't want to touch the engine mounts.

heh well, I have these items that might come in handy for our upgrader : 1 x RB25DET AFM 6 x RB25DET Injectors (turbo ones) 1 x RB25DET ECU

they aren't a garrett turbo, they are a hitachi turbo. No idea on the specs. From memory though, all I can tell you is the exhaust housing is .63.

its wearing out mate, thats what they do. Sounds like its seals are on their way out or something. is there oil in your intercooler piping? If there is, time for a new turbo \ high flow.

apparently there is a kit that measures cylinder pressures - by far the best way to know if you are knocking or not. I'm starting to not trust these knock sensors in my car..

ahh ok, I didn't know that. My injectors are still for offer too if you want them

wtf? You can't hook up a RB20 ECU to a RB25 motor... my god.. Easiest fix - Install RB25 ECU, and injectors. Car would probably start fist go. And won't need to be re mapped... anyway, don't say I didn't warn you. Also, wouldn't the RB20 wiring loom be different to the RB25 loom?

heh yeah we have 98 ron now. The water doesn't make that much difference.. I'm not really sure hey. I can't add anything more to it because it loves detonation. I'm running the stock ex housing ground to fit the GT30r core, do you think that is choking the exhaust flow?

Water meth system is fairly fault proof at the moment. I haven't got a saftey system yet, but there is one that measures pressure and opens th wastegate when the water runs out or drops in pressure I managed a 12.9, but that was with a crappy launch (bogged down) 60 foots aren't anything to be excited about, I don't think I got below 2 secs for the 60 foot. Was having syncro problems too, they didn't help.. Running BP ultimate (98 ron), and water methanol on top of that. The water methanol makes a f**kING HUGE difference. 2 x 175ml \ min jets = 350ml minute being sprayed in. The jets are awesome too, when they are spraying, the mist is so fine it looks like steam. 116mph? Is your turo bigger than mine? what sized exhaust housing do you have on it?

Hi guys, I have a fairly simple question. I want to run a little more boost into my RB25DET. Turbo is a Garret GT30r (With the T04S 7 blade wheel) Its currently running a standard RB25DET turbo exhaust housing ground out to fit. Full boost comes on at 3200rpm in 2nd, and the car is fairly spastic by 4,000rpm - 5,000rpm. (oh, and power fc, datalogit, fuel pump, 555cc injectors, full exhaust, 600x300x75 fmic) Here's the catch - I'm running water methanol injection 50\50 mix and 2 nozzles (175ml minute). One pre Intercooler, and one pre throttle body. The kit is set to start 0% pressure at 5 psi and 100% pressure at 15psi. Its a high pressure kit (Boost Cooler by Snow performance) Someone told me that the water methanol will keep the pistons cooler than normal, and that I should be able to run a little more boost. I'm currently running 18psi, and yeah, 2 psi extra on this turbo is going to make a BIG difference. Compression test showed all cylinders above 160psi, and 3% leakdown. Anybody got some suggestions? ok, to sum it up - 1. Is that going to be too much boost for my Cast pistons even though the water meth is keeping them cool? 2. is my exhaust housing too small for this kind of boost? 3. Power Figure - No idea, haven't had it dyno'd yet. Runs 110mph - 112mph down the strip though. 4. Anything else I need to be aware of?

just letting everyone know that I had a 3200 pound clutch installed for $700. The workshop said its the same style they use in the V8 Holdens with edited ls1's. Haven't had a single drama with it.

I've got a set of RB25DET injectors if you want them. Oh, and a RB25DET Factory ECU Maybe install those injectors and ECU, and you're good to go.. let me know. oh, and you'll definately need a new fuelpump.

I'm jumping in this thread for more info. Still trying to work out what to do with my turbo. oh, and for those that where talking about dump pipes before. Were you talkingabou something like this

I've emailed you..... check it! (Or reply to me here) Are they still for sale?

do they have dampening adjustment?

my mate has one of these on a supra making about 450rwkw they are a mad assed turbo..

give dale a chance, poor bugger is usually tied up with work (even though he's lazy anyway) and he also just moved house. I'm sure he'll be back soon with a nice informative reply.

SK is right on the money. You are a fool if you choose not to listen to him.

its both. Cold air = More air = leaner more unstable mixtures = Knock. Heat soak or hot air = hot fuel = unstable mix = knock. you need to get it somewhere in between, or tune the car on a stinking hot day, and you'll never knock out in the cold. Thats how I tune my car. Also, cold air can make your turbo boost an extra psi sometimes, and lean the car out, causing knock. Get an electronic boost controller.

in for subscription. SK, can you elaborate a little more on the GT30 results you had? What ex housing? I have a ground RB25 ex housing, full boost by 3200rpm-3400rpm in second.

ahhh I See. Well, I haven't had any problems with the standard one at 18psi. I might just leave it on.

Hig guys, I've got a bit of a problem \ issue I have a Standard Motor RB25DET with a Genuine Garrett GT30 (.7 comp cover, .63 ex housing)Sucking through a 4 inch stainless pipe, Q45 AFM and Pod filter. I decided to disconnect the Factory BOV and chocked the hose up. (definately wasn't leaking). Here's where the trouble started...... Usually I'm running 18psi of boost through a $22 Bleed valve. The Turbo would only spool to 13 psi and the car was very underpowered (most likely because of the missing boost) and didn't make anywhere near the amount of induction noise it usually does. When I backed off, instead of hearing fluttering, I sounded like I had one of those poffter style stuttering BOV's. THEN it started idle hunting really bad. Pluged the stocko BOV back in, and everything normal again (boost back to 18psi, and lots of induction noise, and spastic amounts of power once again) What the hell could cause it to react like this?

and where did this fuel vapour come from? Because the stroke before the fuel cut stroke, has already burnt the fuel... Leaking injectors? I don't think so, because if an injector can be accurate at 7000rpm and above, I'm pretty sure its going to be able to cut the fuel pretty damn accurately..

it sure does. Suicide for a Standard turbo though... (ceramic wheel)

thats just a dumb ass thing to do. Do you hold yours flat and on the rev limiter for long periods of time? Is the invisible fuel the isn't going into the cylinder because the injector is off going to melt the pistons?