The Mafia

because when I was runing the standard turbo, I was using Toluene to bring my fuel up to the same level as 98ron... Does anyone read, or just skim, and bag everyone out?

interested to see. Do it.

lol Mackay dude, the only place in QLD that doesn't have 98... Jeez the water methanol makes a difference

well, if you want to be retarded then fine. Be wankers, it does not bother me. I love these cars, I simply don't just hand my car to some dude and do "make it go fast". I take the time and effort to research mods and find the best bang for buck. I run 95 ron fuel, but if you bothered to read, and not be a spastic, you'd see that I was using Toluene to bring my octane up. And if you bothered to read more of my posts, the standard turbo experiences I had are from a long time ago. I've since gone a bigger turbo and used water methanol injection. Currently running 108mph, haven't had a chance to see what mph I will run with the water methanol. Terminal speeds are and excellent judge on power, and thats what I have been looking at. With 210rwkw, I had 104mph. Seemed Fairly spot on. Insult me all you like, I've done theresearch, played around, tried different things. You guy are the ones that seem to be all hung up on your dynos. I simply came here stating that a standard ecu WILL NOT make 190rwkw. From my experience, 125rwkw seemed standard, with exhaust FMIC and boost, I made 140s, in which 20rwkw seemed fairly normal for that kind of upgrade. Then the powerfc, which allows you to get rid of those horrible AFRs. If you ECU is chipped, its another story. I never said that the 2 dynos that I use a right, I simply stated that they are a little more accurate than a dyno reading 190rwkw with a stock ECU. but anyway, if you want to go all retarded and be smartasses, go for it. another thing - where the hell are you pulling these power figures from? "My exhaust made about 30rwkw" ??? How do you know that?

well, now that I am home, I'll explain. I've heard numerous times that Skylines make about 125rwkw maybe 130rwkw stock. Mine did. On 2 different dynos. Dyno Dynamics dynos. I added and exhaust, interooler, and a little bit of boost (10psi), it made a bit more power, but not that much... So off to the dyno, and it made 142rwkw. As a little test, I upped the boost to 12psi (beyond boost cut.) The car made a cool 118rwkw. Then I bought a powerfc, and had a full tune. First tune was 198rwkw with 13psi and 400nm or torque. Second tune with Toluene was 209rwkw with 420nm of torque. This was on the same dyno. Its very common knowledge that a standard turbo won't make anymore than about 210rwkw. We've seen a little more on extreme cases. So yeah, my car made the usual power target that most educated people on SAU seem to know. Seems like this dyno is proving to be fairly accurate (or not over active) hey? my car went from ok, to breaking a lot of traction, hence the massive increase in power. And yes, because you start mouthing off saying "blah blah so your powerfc made 100000kwsdifference hey?" They do. The aftermarket ECU or fuel controller make HEAPS of difference in these cars as the factory ECU runsstupidly rich. So you're wondering how I know all of this? I tune my car, myself. I've seen the AFR's, I've seen the curves, and factory ECU's are crap. Someone originally came here and said they made 190rwkw without and aftermarket ECU or fuel controller. That my friend, is complete bullshit. You simply cannot make that much power unless the factory ECU has been modified in some way. Stock, not a chance in hell. If the dyno says that, then its WAY out. By a mile. Someone ever said originally - the particular dyno that the car was tested on is very happy on giving high figures. Since my little stint with the factory turbo, I've since upgraded to a garrett GT30 550hp, 555cc injectors, Datalogit, Water methanol injection, etc etc. My car smokes the tyres as soon as it comes on boost in second, with not help what so ever. Even if I short shift from first to second, and simply put it to the floor at about 1500rpm, it will break out right to the rev limiter starting at about 3,000rpm. Cuts a fair bit sick in third too. So yeah, all of my own tuning. You can sit there and say I don't have a clue. But tell me, when was the last time you fully tuned your ECU and actually knew what it was doing, or had a lot of experience with power increases? Anyway... Yeah, Skylines are not that powerful stock...

sounds like you've been visiting the generous dynos. There was nothing wrong with my car when done. The Dyno was just a little more accurate that the one you've obviously been to. 140rwkw is way too much for stock. That means the dyno your on is reading 20rwkw too much... What, you think all dyno's read the same? There is NO WAY a standard, run of the mill R33 will make 140 true rwkw. They are only 125rwkw standard.

125rwkw stock, actually.

Nope, got the water on full at about 12psi - 14psi - Just remember that list dial is very sensitive. 5 - 15psi in that tiny little bit of adjustment. I just bought a drum of methanol - 20l for $40

The Boost cooler has these options. 1. SolenoidValve to stop it syphoning on vaccum, or bleeding under weight when the car is off. 2. Reverse Check Valve. Stops boost blowing back to the pump. I don't need to worry, as my tank and pump a mounted well below the nozzle.

heh...It pings its nuts off on boost. So, its simple. You don't let it run out. The 2l mix lasts for about 1 tank of fuel. Soits easy to keep topped up.

3l bottom end

Definately need an intercooler. I'm in the process of installing a 225ml\m jet before the intercooler. THis will greatly inprove the intercoolers performance. The methanol will drop the intercooler temperature by a heap, improving its performance. Yeap, 50% Water, 50% Methanol. When you say Nitro? What do you mean? Nitrous Oxide or somethin else that I can put in the water methanol mix? Always up for "secret" additives. Are there any downsides to it? The Stage II Kit can be had from Full Throttle Performance for $850. (http://www.full-throttle.com.au/Engine/Boost%20Cooler.htm) I know thats a fair amount, but put it this way. The Pumps they use are shureflow pumps - They are worth at least $300 on their own, and they are considered the best on the market. (my dad is a cane farmer, and he was even shoked to see the kit come with that particular branded pump, and straight away said they are very high quality pump.) The jets are also of excellent quality, they mist the water meth mix so well, it almost looks like steam. As for the variable controller - You'll never find an activation point like that. Gradually feeds the car water, not dumping it in giving the car flat spots. They also have controllers that read MAF voltage. The more air, the more water. This sytem injects water and methanol into the air intake. The Water stabilises the fuel burn preventing detonation) and the methanol drops your inlet tempteratures by about 15 degrees. Other good side effects - It cleans everything. Open up a motor that has had water methanol injection and you'll find it'll be much cleaner then a normal motor.

I've posted some pics http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=126278

I've installed water methanol injection. I got the shits with our 95 ron fuel here, and wanted something worth tuning to. The Results were fantastic - able to put in up to 7 degrees advance on full load, and 2 psi more boost (GT30 at 18psi) This kit is a detonation destroyer. Car runs like a nut case now. I didn't want the kit on all the time so I hooked up a relay, and pinched a signal wire from the washer bottle motor power. The Washer bottle motor power comes on as soon as you turn the key. As for the Washer bottle itself, I cut the larger half off (it's such and overkill anyway!) and had it plasti welded up for $70. That way, I could retain the wiring, mounts etc. It was suggested I buy a smaller washer bottle but I would have hd to wire it up, and find one with dual motors (for the rear windscreen too). It was much easier reducing the size of the original bottle. The Dude that welded it even welded in the original lid! The jet - Since the cast is fairly thin, I opted to drill and tap a hole through one of the mounts where its a little thinker. It was a little too thick (the jet only has so much thread, plus it's tapered) so we had to grind the mount down a little. The jet MUST be flush with the inside of the pipe. These systems work even better on 98ron fuel......... Can't wait. I have a mate running one with av gas - Supra with over 500hp at the wheels. Let me know what you all think..

different dyno's, different fudges...I mean reading. Looking at the Mainline dyno graph.. And you say you were running 12psi? With my 142rwkw - if I upped the boost to 12psi, I would lose 30rwkw due to "rich and retard". I have the dyno graphs around here somewhere to prove it..... Its shows your car has 4 cylinders.. Also says your making 480nm or torque... Unless you were running NOS, I hardly believe that. With my Powerfc Tuned, and my car running easy 13's at 104mph, I was making 420nm or torque. With a GT30 and 250rwkw my car is making just over 500nm now. Before I put on a big turbo, My Car, compression tested at 169psi across all cylinders, and had 2% leakdown. Thats considered a new motor. It had 70,000 genuine kms on it. Considered perfect by most. The exhaust I put on it, is still on there right now, exactly the same handling 250rwkw+. The car had 10psi (any higher and you get rich and retard) with a 600x300x75mm intercooler, full exhaust. Threw it on a Dyno Dynamics Dyno and it made 143rwkw. Typical Factory ECU dips and shit like that. 350nm of Torque etc. If you made 190rwkw with that setup on your Factory ECU, then you have a SAFC hidden under the dash, or your factory ECU has been chipped. I refuse to believe that a Standard R33 GTS-T (Mine is 96 also) will make 190rwkw with only a Boost, exhaust and FMIC. It will maybe make 190rwkw...on a fudged dyno..

my mods - PowerFC FMIC Full Exhaust Tune = 210rwkw. Anyone that says you can make over 150rwkw WITHOUT an aftermarket fuel controller or ecu, is full of shit.

I've been using Shell Helix Fully Synthetic 5w40 for the last 40,000 kms and my car has compression tested, and leak down tested f**king excellent. Why waste so much on that oil?

I'll borrow my brothers digital camera and take some good shots. I did the install myself, and I seem to think it is very professional looking, and very tidy. I had to cut half of the washer bottle of and get it plastic welded up so that I could fit in a bracket and the 2l bottle. I didn't go all out and buy the whole kit, I just got the simple stage 2 kit with the Variable controller. Cost me $850. The 2l bottle if usually enough if you don't drive your car everywhere on boost. Bought it from here: http://www.full-throttle.com.au/Engine/Boost Cooler.htm These guys are great, and will look after you. I will certianly be grabbing the rest of the safety systems off them when I do save enough money to buy them. I've mounted the Bottle, and pump WAY below the jet so that it won't syphon on idle. I've also run out once, and yeah the car pinged, but the powerfc let me know asap, and it was only around the 4000rpm mark and wasn't bad pinging so yeah, I know now, to keep the bottle full. its not hard. I use about 2l of 50\50 water meth per tank of fuel. Meth is about $1.30 a litre, and water well, very cheap. Car runs so much better now. You could even put 91 ron fuel in, and still get heaps better performance than 98 ron fuel alone. 98ron fuel, and water meth...well, thats another story. Talk to Mark Alford at Full Throttle Performance. He's a champ. Pictures over the weekend.

well, I installed one, and I reckon my car has gained about 30rwkw - 40 rwkw. I managed to run 2psi more boost, and 7 degrees more advance on full load. Definately worth every penny. Sorry though, since so many people jumped on this thread and rode it like a $2 hooker with all of their unproven beliefs, the group buy is off.

I wonder if they do powerfc upgrades...you know...launch control etc..

sounds like cylinder 6 has massive blowby. I'dbe getting a compression and leakdown test. You're most likely going to need an engine rebuild.

they are too sensitive. I've getting readings at 40+ and not hearing any detonation. Can anyone agree with this?

Couple of Questions: Car is a R33 Nissan Skyline, with a RB25DET, and Garrett GT30 making around 250 rwkw. 1. The Knock setting area on the Fc Edit Software under the settings 1 tab. There is a "Thresh" which is what it will flash on the dash with if there is knock. What does the "setting" reflect. On the RB25 default maps, its set at 9. Also, My Knock sensors are reading 80 - 100 on some parts of full load, and the tuner says he can't hear any knock. He does quite a few XR6 Turbos, and says that he has to turn off his knock sensors all together because since he's making so much more power, the sensors are picking up general engine noise as knock. He also said since the engine is making so much more power, it sounds different and can fool the knock sensors into thinking its knocking. (this XR6T is 11.5 @ 120mph Standard motor and turbo! Seen it with my own eyes) The main reason he turns off knock sensing is because then the factory ECU tries to pull out 6 degrees. They actually edit the Factory ecu to gain power. Anyway... Could my sensors be over sensitive? Since the water methanol Injection has been fitted, its making heaps more power. I want to put the timing in, but I am too scared to because the sensors are reporting high knock (when we can't hear it). All input, big or small, is appreciated. Thanks Jono

sounds like a turbo seal, weeping a little.

you don't need to send it to japan. All you need to do is find someone with a datalogit.