The Mafia

in the BNR34, it's wired to the ECU. I have the Link ECU triggering this fan when required. In the BCNR33, they are wired through pressure switch and it isn't wired to the ECU and needs a fair bit of modification to the wiring setup to make it work. Going to make some changes and see if I can get it under control. If not I will have to look at getting a proper electric fan shroud made up as the spal3000 I had kept it under control on the 35+ degree days here. On my BCNR33 race car, I had issues with temp creep after 5-6-7 laps. All I did was change the intercooler from a 15 year old HKS to a custom made A.R.E intercooler, and the temp difference between the top and bottom hose (I have sensors on both) went from 5 degrees to 15 degrees. I think we are blocking the radiators significantly with these big intercoolers we are installing. I asked ARE for one that had more surface area but bigger spacing so allow more air through. It worked really well. On the BNR34, I have a PWR rad and Intercooler. I think the intercooler is blocking quite a bit of the airflow. I didn't have this issue with the stock intercooler.

Hey mate, anwers to your questions and suggestions. What makes me think it is an airflow issue is that when I turn the AC off but force the fan on it helps. The clutch is brand new and it's locking up quite well. Definitely no issue there.

Hey mate! I sure do already. Foam etc. Plate on the top of the rad support etc. Do you think this tropics up here is partially to blame? 30+ degree heat and 90% humidty some days. It's so shit.

haha yeah I have learned this one. I still have the stock shroud and stock fan. It gets very hot and humid up here in the north.

I've got a larger PWR core and it is no better than the stock rad. Pretty disapointed in it. Seems to be an airflow issue though. At 100kmph I can see temps as low as 7x degrees, even lower in winter. (Thermostat is a low temp nismo). But at idle, they get up there. Tried the stock fan, a GKtech fan, and a Spal3000. The spal 3000 is the only way to keep it under control.

I want to go electric on the race car, but I want to beef up the BNR34 with something a bit better. It's just a streeter with 550-600awhp. I don't boost it that much at all. Up here in the tropics it gets very hot and it's a struggle to keep it under control. Figured a larger pump and some better fans should help the situation.

https://www.rhdjapan.com/reimax-high-flow-water-pump-bnr32-bcnr33-bnr34-wgnc34.html As you can see below, they offer significant flow over the OEM or N1 pumps. One thing that does concern me is the amount of blades. At higher RPM they might end up being a restriction as the general consensus is that you reduce the amount of blades at higher RPM to leave room for flow. Having 8 blades would help flow at lower RPM for example idle RPMs. It has the back plate design that is mean to stop cavitation too. Has anyone used these and can give some feedback? Thanks in advance. Brand: Reimax Product: High Flow Water Pump - BNR32 BCNR33 BNR34 WGNC34 Part Num: 21010-AAN01 SPECIFICATIONS: Outer diameter (mm): - OEM: 64 - N1: 70 - Reimax: 70 Blades: - OEM: 8 - N1: 6 - Reimax: 8 Shroud: - OEM: None - N1: Included - Reimax: Included Volume (L/min): - OEM: 160 - N1: 192 - Reimax: 221

Nearly there. Should have some measurements in the next week or two. Going to use a 0.8mm head gasket too. Will have about 9.7:1 compression.

Hey mate, About 18 degrees. I could sneak a bit more in but the extra timing had diminishing returns so I think the rear housing was choking up. It's a circuit race car and didn't want to push it too much. Zero knock obviously and EGTs were only 700-750 degrees so I left it at that.

Yeah we thought about that too. Sorry I should have mentioned that in my post. Once we have built the bottom end and have dummied up the head we will have a better indication on how much piston to valve clearance we have. I'll make sure I post the results so there are answers. It's always good to know this stuff.

I've been thinking about this. If a Step1 kit can go onto a stock engine and move to 30 degrees advanced, I think a Step Pro should be able to do relatively the same because the CP pistons will almost be the same valve recess area and piston to quench area. I should be able to get about 30 degrees out of the 50 degree kit which will be still a significant upgrade. The engine builder is going to measure everything up for me and see how much advance I will have.

I would be disturbing the structure of the piston by doing this. The HKS VCam was a late choice. I know, bad idea but It's apparently been done. Just can't run the full amount of advance which I'm okay with.

Hi Everyone I'm in the process of building my RB28 engine and I have basically got everything here ready to be assembled. Currently have an extensively modified head (Shimless buckets, 1mm oversize valves, ported, clearanced, springs, Kelford 272, 10.25mm lift cams. Pistons are CP Custom 9.5:1 Crank is a 2.8 Stroker. I want to fit a HKS VCam Step pro with the 264 / 10mm lift. I'm aware that the HKS VCam kit needs the HKS pistons that have a larger valve relief to obtain 50 degrees advance. I've spoken to someone that has done the CP + VCam Step Pro and they said they got 32 degrees of advance before there would be clearance issues. So, my question is pretty simple - Has anyone does this combination before and can confirm this? I would be pretty happy with 30 degrees advance because that is still a decent gain. We would be installing a stopper once we know how far it can be advanced. Thanks in advance for any information.

Okay so, read right through this thread over a couple of days. My Setup: R33 GTR Circuit Purpose Build RB26 Stock Crank Nitto I beam Rods with ARP625 CP Coated pistons at 9:1 compression Ported Head Kelford 272 cams with 10.2mm lift Custom ARE intercooler 3.5inch exhaust with a dodgy muffler and no cat Holinger 6 Speed Sequential 6boost T4 Divided Manifold Borg Warner EFR 8374 Speed Sensor wouldn't work so I cannot give you shaft speeds Tuned by me, on E85 This was at 26psi. This Dyno is known to read a little low and I was having grip issues.

Has anyone used the Pulsar SXE range? Any results? I am keen to try one. Specifically the S369 and S372. Thanks

I agree. Bevelling the edges and having a thin gas layer in the quench zone, and 88mm gasket on a 86.5mm bore is not going to help things. These all aid detonation. This is why you see a lot of RB26s with detonation on the quench pads. Getting that mixture to the center of the chamber is important. A thin gasket that is the same diamater as the bore or as close as possible (0.5mm bigger max) is the best way to do it. The only time you really need to remove the quench area and increase the chamber size is if you are running 50-60-70-80-90psi of boost. Static comp with 90psi is quite high so you need to generally lower the compression overall.

Trying to get the most optimal quench zone. Going to almost square bore edges and a super thin gasket with the best squish. This helps reduce detonation, increases combustion chamber efficiency, and also helps with strength. It's not a huge gain but every little bit counts. It's for my circuit race car. I've got 9.5:1 pistons, and will opt for a 0.8mm head gasket. should get be a nice 9.8:1 with a really good combustion chamber. Car is E85 only so won't be an issue with knock ceilings.

They are unfortunately not below 1mm.

Hi All I'm currently building another RB26 race engine. Trying to refine a few things while doing this. Ideally I want to run a square edge bore with a super thin headgasket (0.8mm) that is the same as the bore diameter (86.5mm). Unfortunately, there are lack of items in this size and combination. I have decided to run a 87mm gasket but I absolutely want to run the grommet / fire ring style. Nitto has exactly this. Unfortunately Nitto only makes 88mm diameter and 1.2mm head gaskets. I am looking at the Nismo 0.9mm gasket, they have this in the 87mm variant. But, I cannot find any details about them at all. I have searched for part numbers, Nismo directly, etc and cannot get any information. Question 1 is, what style of sealing are Nismo headgaskets? Are they are grommet style? Does anyone here have a Nismo gasket on hand they can look at for me? https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-head-gasket-0-9mm-bnr32-bcnr33-bnr34-wgnc34.html Question 2 is, is there anything that anyone can recommend that is 87mm, 1mm or below, and grommet style? Thanks

Thanks mate

Okay, thanks anyway

do you know if they are the same?

haha are you drunk? I just want to know if they are the same. As per the question in the title: RB26 AWD Sump / RB25 AWD Stagea Sumps - Are they the same?

hey mate, so can you help? haha

Thanks mate, I will try and get a hold of him. Hopefully he replies here