The Mafia

FFS this is a thread about GTX twins. Not some dinosaur T04Z. Wow, steep curve. Not a single f**king torque curve to be seen. Probably don't even know what "area under the curve" means. It means a usable powerband. Not some dyno queen looking graph. GTFO, I'm sick of reading this shit. I want to know about GTX twins. I like my engine bay to look stock. And it still does. To the others - When $$$ permits, I'm considering GTX2860s in stock compressor covers and 0.63 rears. I want something more responsive than my -5s. I'm getting 23psi at 4800rpm in 3rd and I want it to be at least 600rpm earlier. I would prefer 20psi by 4,000rpm. Would bring the torque up earlier and hold it with the GTX compressors better efficiency at higher boost levels. (I use the car for the type of track that has corners..)

I'm trying to help someone with one of these. There is bugger all in the manual, and from what I can see there is no gain control?

haha yeah sorry about that. So if I do the coke bottle trick I won't need to worry about the bleed screw?

Hey guys. Another thread revival haha (Sorry DVS) Where is the coolant bleeder on the BNR34? Does it even have one? Found this thread via google. Have been looking in google images but it hasn't brought anything up.

Those -5 lines are identical to mine. 20psi by around 4700-4800 rpm. (I have the HKS -5s) Are you running E85? I have Tomei Bell mouth dumps and a single 3.5inch exhaust.

You will find that the Bosch pumps are only noisy if they are restricted on the inlet. They have a large inlet hole for a reason and you shouldn't reduce that. I've been told that feeding them properly makes them as quiet as a mouse.

Factory RB30 pump is no good for a RB25 / RB30 hybrid. (Too small) If you have pretty much zero oil pressure at idle is no good either - you may have done damage already. I used a GTR spring in a RB25 pump. Also, the sump needs to come off when you want to change the pressure. I actually cut a hole in my sump and welded a large bung in so I could change it from under the car. Just have to drop the oil.

I ran 2 x 1.3mm restrictors in mine. I still had VCT and did the internal mod so I was robbing oil from the lifters to run it. Not sure how effective that was because when the VCT is on, it is shut and holding pressure on the cam pulley so that it can advance. When it de-activates, it opens up and releases the pressure which means it is flowing and adding to the amount of oil in the head ( I'm not 100% sure because I don't have a head here to inspect and I'm not sure if the VCT had it's own drain. I am pretty sure it uses the head drains) Anyway, If I did it again I would look at using 1.2mm feeds. EVen they seem to be big enough from what I have heard.

I've used WMI for a long time. You really want the water and meth coming on before the engine starts to ramp up to peak torque. I think 22psi is way too late for that. I would be starting it at 10psi. (I ran 20psi of boost and had my variable controller starting at 5psi and finishing (full pressure) at 21psi) Peak torque and building up to peak torque is when it's going to knock. It's also where the response is, and extra timing there will make it come onto boost sooner. I'm considering a WMI kit and using my link G4+ with a 3d table to control it. Would be perfect. Just another note - next time I make a kit I'm going to create some sort of purge switch in the cabin so that at least once or twice I will run the kit for a few seconds on idle or cruise to push out the air pockets. Had the kit running full pressure on idle, didn't run bad or anything. Good to clean the engine too. Really good! Clean engines always run better

The guy in the ute was just as much to blame. He was being a f**king asshole. Poor truck.

lol really? That's what you say? I didn't crap on you in my original post. Just stated what usually happens when the 10,4565th person says "How much power do you think this will make??" People usually say whatever the dyno says. How about you stick it on the dyno and find out? because not many people are going to be bothered to answer you. I'll check back in a week and see how you are going.

This gets asked very often and people hate it. Probably going to get ignored or shut down fairly quickly

Does that seem pretty laggy on a 2.8? My -5's are all in (18psi) at 4800rpm. (Standard motor)

That's a really nice plot. Can anyone give an idea of what rpm vs speed between 90 and 130? See with this sort of upgrade, the GTX2860 (Slightly smaller) would be earlier and even more responsive with a nice top end

ATP are pretty helpful, they just sent this: Hello Jonathan, No problem. On a typical 2.0L setup, the GTX2863R spools about 100 to 150rpm slower than the GTX2860R.

I've added the GTX2863 to my cheat sheet. It looks like it was made to be the -5 equivalent. Does anyone think the different lower trim would help it spool? Need some experts in here to talk to me about the specs

Doesn't look like they offer a solution: Hello Jonathan, We do not offer a bolt-on solution for the GTX2860R. The provided link is a GT2871R with the option to upgrade to the GTX2863R and GTX2867R. The GTX2863R and GTX2867R are the only available GTX series options within the Skyline housings. Thank you

If it was a dirty old BNR32 or BNR33 I would go 3L but I want to keep the GTR about it lol. Stock at the moment. Considered adjusting cams but funds aren't that plentiful at the moment. I'm just chasing replacements for my -5s. This is what ATP have said. Looks like they only have options for the GTX2863 and GTX2867 at the moment which are too large for what I want. Hello Jonathan, Thank you for contacting us. We offer the GTX2863R and GTX2867R upgrade solutions to the stock turbochargers. The turbine and compressor housings bolt-on to the stock compressor inlet, turbine inlet, and turbine outlet. Product details (NOTE: GTX2863R and GTX2867R are upgrade options under related parts): http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-075&Category_Code=RB26 Feel free to contact us for further questions. Thank you

yep, and no comment. The solution is easy - either -9s or GTX2860s in housings that bolt onto the factory intake and exhaust.

haha not really that worried about what power it makes, I just want the most power with 4,000rpm - 18psi bloody twins are a pain in the ass

well, will be both fuels So about 320-330awkw on BP98 380awkw and beyond on E85 maybe? Hard to say, but I would like to be all in at 4,000rpm (18psi)

Are there any more developments of getting the GTX2860R onto the RB26 with the factory style front and rear housings? Looks like it is right in the middle of the -9 and -5 I would love to stick this on my car but the whole intake side of things is a pain in the ass.

I just found it aboutr 10 mins ago haha thanks anyway

It's a number of stupid reasons why I want this: - I want early spool and still a decent amount of top end (GTX are good for this) - I want everything to simply bolt onto the factory positions (intake and exhaust) - I want newer billet wheels - I want my cake and to eat it too I have emailed GCG to see what it would cost to machine my HKS front and rear housings onto some GTX2860 cores. If you have a look at the picture up there you can see the GTX is right in the middle of the -5 and -9. The GCG rep in QLD said that this combo should be on at about 4,000rpm which would be good and drivable. I like to hit the race track 2-3 times per year too by the way. Hope all of that made sense... my ADHD is giving me a hiding today lol.

okay so I have the information I need. Now I need to work out if I can cram the GTX core into some housings that will bolt straight onto my stock manifolds, intake pipes, and dumps. Does anyone have any suggestions? As you can see, the GTX2860 is between a -5 and a -9. I'm assuming with a billet wheel it might even spool a little earlier. There was a huge thread I read a while ago where someone had crammed a GTX cartridge into some stock housings (bored them out) and got some good results. I'm thinking that my HKS housings aren't any good (and won't simply bolt on)