The Mafia

Me and another tuner friend have been doing experiments with widebands to understand them better and see which perform the best. Just remember that some are slow and some are fast. ALM was meant to be the fastest, but I do not like the idea of overseas support. Techedge seem to be okay, but I need one to test. We had 3 in a gas chamber - Autronic, Innovate LM2, and a ALM with a screen. The autronic was the best but doesn't support 4.9 sensors. (They are also expensive!) The others were using the 4.9 sensors. When the AFRs go under 10, there are so fairly big discrepancies! Also at leaner mixtures above 15:1 Be very mindful on picking a wideband. Personally, at this stage I think Techedge is the best, but I want to buy one and try it out.

The sensors are okay for me. Its the POS controller. Both of my LM2 units died. Sensors tested okay

I hear you brother!

I had cooling issues. PWR radiator and my factory shroud. I even tried the stock radiator and still no luck. (Checked water pump, it was fine) For some reason the car wouldn't stay cool at idle any more. As soon as I was 60kmph or more, it was fine and would drop the temps to 70 degrees on the highway. (I have a Nismo low temp thermostat). I installed a brand new fan hub - no good. Then I installed a Craig Davies fan hub (which is just locked all the time and a pain in the ass) and it worked. Everything stayed cool and the car idles cool now. But it was as loud as hell and dragging all the way to 8,000rpm. I didn't like the idea of a fan loading up that hard all the time. So I got a bracket laser cut and fit a SPAL 3000cfm fan to the car. Solid state relay, PWM, etc. Now I can set a full duty cycle via the ECU, and have it start up gently.

I prefer them just at the bottom of the dump pipe. On my GTR, where the Y pipe joins into 1

Pretty sure its the gauge but I will test that soon. Sensor is only 2 months old.

Had another Innovate MTX die in a customers car last night. Awesome.

I've got the Okada Plasma direct. They are pretty lethal. E85, 25psi, and 1.1mm gap.

Hi Everyone BNR34 I am removing my stock fan hub and fan, and installing a thermo fan. Just curious, it's probably not a good idea to just put the nuts back on the pulley. I was thinking of making a round plate with 4 holes as a brace. Either that or 4 decent sized washers to increase the torqued surface area of the nuts. Any suggestions? Thanks!

A good tune avoids this. I tuned mine to come on hard but not whack hard. With my GT3076, I could drop it back to third at 100kmph (without popping the clutch / revs) and roll the throttle on and change lanes without the steering. I would love my old setup back with a GTX, 25psi, and WMI.... would be a wicked streeter.

I think 1psi is too early, you will activate the kit too often and waste water for when you need it. I would start the kit at 5-6psi. Beyond that is when the torque starts to come on hard.

What an old read. Just to correct one of my mistakes, I have learned over the years that the water what removes the heat, and the methanol increases the octane. Together they drop the inlet charge temps quite a bit.

Let's face it - Innovate is f**ked

I upgraded my firmware to 1.17 and switched the sensor over to 4.9. It lasted about 3 months and died. Also, innovate says that if you unplug the sensor while the control box is powered it will kill the control box. They finally emailed me back for a repair and gave me an RMA number.

I've been having luck with Ecotrons. I'm with you too - I like CAN because the voltage offsets, bad earths etc give me the shits when they don't work properly.

How much was it? Always looking for good prices. And link having support for it is a bonus.

I'm going to get a 20L drum, cut the top off, and then collect all the f**ked innovate LM2 hand controllers I have encountered (Including 2 of mine) pour fuel in, BURN ALL OF THE dream boats, and then with the molten plastic and slag, get f**k YOU TO HELL INNOVATE engraved on it, and post it to them. Innovate can eat the biggest, fattest and longest of dicks. The units last about 1-2 years. Then they go to shit. They f**k up in a shit way - the AFR reading rubber bands between 10 and 40 AFR and is absolutely f**ked. Powersupply on the car a little shit? No problems, just be an asshole and don't work at all innovate. The analogue outputs don't even f**king work properly. they have 2 analogue outputs - one works, 0-5v the other doesn't work at all even though they boast the unit has two. False advertising. Their customer service is ZERO Their response to emails - ZERO The quality of their units - ZERO The parts availability - ZERO f**k them. I'm going to buy a techedge unit and never trust innovate again. For all my CAN BUS needs on the Link G4+, I have been using hte Ecotrons ALM-CAN and ALM-CAN II. I worked with link to get templates made up so you can just load the file and it connects. I have permanently mounted one in my car over a year ago and still going good. I have installed about 5 other units, and 2 dual units without an issue. CAN is just so f**king easy. They are all 4.9 LSU too, and now with the ADV sensor.

Stay away from the Holley dominator - They have had a high failure rate.

I've noticed at +10in it seems to fall over at about 7000-7400rpm I will pull it back to +8in or +6in to get me to 8k. Exhaust just made it f**king fast everywhere. Not sure why the hell -8ex did that. Nervous though. not sure how far I can go before I break something

I'm currently running +10in, -8ex and it's still laggy lol. I went as far as +12in and it still didn't help.

I know this, hence why I said I would grind out stock housings to suit. Do you think I could even get close? Like 500-700rpm less lag? Maybe 20psi by 4,000rpm? I remember I had some wanker on facebook try and tell me he had -5s on at 3750rpm with a stock motor. Some people talk so much shit... haha I am one of "those" and want to keep the twins.

Excellent news. Surely the 60mm GTX versions will come on much earlier! All I want is 1k rpm earlier spool, then I won't be grabbing gears so much on the circuit.

f**king f**k. haha. They always want to hit 20psi at around 4700rpm. My HKS -5s are ass because I cannot get them to come on earlier than 4700rpm no matter what I try (cam gears, timing etc) Are the GTX67 wheels bigger? I was considering putting GTX60 wheels in and grinding out stock covers, and HKS rear housings. Surely that would help?

Useless then.. The fuel temp never goes below 40 degrees most of the time. f**k, the temp would be higher than that before even starting the car.

I love nistune too. I have been getting some great results lately.