Jump to content
SAU Community

The Mafia

Members
  • Posts

    3,834
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by The Mafia

  1. Ignoring this complete and utter f#%king tool... Callan, if you want, when you come over to grab some parts, we can go for a run and I'll plug the datalogit in and have a look. You're welcome to have a look and play with your tune too, if you want me to drive. My mate tuned his car and I ended tweaking it a fair bit because he was too scared to put some timing in some areas that really count. Especially for you, on the drag strip. Just got to keep an eye on the knock. You'll find that it will knock at 10-20, but wont go any higher even if you add more timing. This is because knock isn't actually detonation or pre-ignition, its just a noise level at a specific frequency. If you use the right sized spanner, you can "emulate" that frequency and tap the engine, and make the knock sensors pick up knock while the car isn't even running. Remember these knock sensors where designed for a standard car and ECU. When you start really pushing the power envelope there is all this extra engine noise that may actually show up on the knock sensors, but may not be knock. I remember one dude, his car was knocking bad, up near 100, but there was barely any timing on the map. After having a look, there was a loose bracket vibrating like hell, setting the sensors off. Another example, on the XR6Ts, above 300rwkw they turn the knock sensors off, because they are too sensitive, and the ECU has a fit with all the knock it thinks it is seeing, and retards the shit out of the timing. I can also show the the areas that are more prone to knock than others due to the loading on acceleration, and areas where it helps bringing on boost earlier etc. Those areas can also benefit from extra fuel, as you don't always just stick to 12:1 afrs etc. Some areas will run better with 11.5:1 and extra timing, to help with spool. Also, you're actually able to run more timing high in the rev range because the engine is spinning hard, with plenty of momentum, and has less weight load. Lots of variables. I'm happy to show you how its done. After a while you just get a feel of it. Now I can usually get the AFRs close to where I want them after 2-3 runs, as once looking at the numbers, you can see if you need a bit extra or less, and just have a feel on how much of the injector correction to add or take. One other thing - I can also show you an area where you can tweak the dwell times of the coil packs a little harder, giving the coils more time to store more charge, giving you a slightly bigger spark. I know how high you can go safely. Too high will burn out coil packs. I run a specific setting in mine for about 3-4 years and never had an issue at all.
  2. If it's still running 4 stud wheels and smaller na brakes, it's ILLEGAL and the car can and will be defected. You're also driving a car that cannot pull up as quickly do its a danger to you. You really should have looked before you rushed blindly into a buy.
  3. to be like everyone else - He wants to be "different" lol
  4. hence why you don't just buy something out of stupidity and then ask the questions later. I thoroughly inspect anything I buy. Especially anything in this kind of industry. But I guess you kids need to learn the hard way.
  5. I'm assuming you don't realise how important it is. Also, this stuff is never urgent. You dot rush this kind of stuff unless you've got someone dying next door, and there are no cars or ambulance available for 1000 kms. Take your time, and do it properly. Having a flywheel come off, and cut off your feet is not worth the risk.
  6. Do you like buy the first thing you see and then find out what you've bought later? Why do people do this? So now you've been thrown in the deep end. What would you rather do? Learn how to swim or drown? It's time to start learning, not expecting every one else to hand feed you. It is very easy to find out what you are after.
  7. Lol, so whoever gave you that turbo thinks that rear housings are one size fits all? Good luck getting 5psi before 5,000rpm
  8. do you have rubber?
  9. 310awkw with a stock ecu?
  10. Hi Everyone I have a R33 Series 2 GTS-T gearbox for sale. I built an RB25\30, and while the engine was out I got the box serviced. Things done to the box: - Full bearing kit, springs, clips, etc etc (Worth $600 from CBC bearings) - New input shaft (Has 4th, 5th, a transfer cog, and 2nd I think) The hardening coating had just ever so slightly started to wear, so I replaced. The Mech said it would do another 20,000kms before there would be issues, but I had it replaced anyway. It cost me $550 from nissan for a brand new one. - New Syncros in 1st to 2nd, and 4th to 5th. For the rest, the cones were bead blasted so they were rought again. Gearbox changed perfect. - All new seals, etc and any of that stuff. I had this box done back to new with the intention of putting another 100,000kms on it, but after 1500kms my car copped some front end damage from some dickhead that didn't give way at a green light. Car was written off because the airbags went off. Total spent on the box service: $1150 + $700 Labour Total: $1850 Looking for $1800, the box is like new, its how I like my women - Nice and tight. I have reciepts somewhere if you don't believe me. Or I can go to the shop and get the invoice re-printed. If you want pics, I can take them but, its still in the car, will be out on Thursday (18th August) Thanks Jono paceys(at)gmail.com 0439 336 four zero seven
  11. just letting you know that after posting a local guy came and paid cash and took these for $900. Sorry to waste any time.
  12. Just letting you know that the injectors are sold. Guy bought the engine, injectors, turbo, suspoension etc. He was local too. Sorry to those that missed out.
  13. no worries at all mate - They are the best shocks I have ever used. Just let me know.
  14. Hi Guys Back home now, and I'm happy to answer any questions, etc. Just another noite, I am adding more gear for sale. I've started threads for them. Suspension here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/373628-bilstein-shocks-and-whiteline-springs-adjustable-for-r33-gts-t/ PowerFC, Injectors, Q45 AFM here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/373629-apexi-power-fc-hand-controller-q45-afm-nismo-555cc-injectors-to-suit-r33-gts-t/
  15. Hi Everyone Its time to sell my power FC, so someone else can enjoy the power. Just search my name if you want to know a bit about me - I'm a regular genuine user on SAU. Its a late Version R33 GTS-T powerfc, so its nice and quick. The power FC has no issues whatsoever, the hand controller also works fine, the only issue is the back light stopped working properly so at night its hard to read. It could be fixed for about $2 and someone handy with a soldering iron. I've run 300rwkw+ with this power FC for years, and have never had an issue. I can reset it and adjust the tune in it before I send it, but I do recommend that you see a tuner asap to have it tuned properly. I've also got a Q45 AFM (90mm) that works flawlessly, and some nismo 555cc injectors that are perfect and still in the fuel rail too. If you want these extras please let me know. Would be a nice kit to buy all together. Tested and proved. I can also set the powerFC to already be configured for the Q45 AFM and injectors. PowerFC: $1200 Q45 AFM: $150 Nismo 555cc Injectiors in fuel rail: $450 If you buy the lot, I will pay for the postage, and knock another $50 off the price. Thanks Jono
  16. Hi Everyone I have a full set of Bilstien Shocks and Whiteline springs for sale. They are assembled so you put them in like a coilover. They've done about 10,000kms They have grooves cut every 8mm so you can adjust the height. These aren't cheap junk - These are some of the best you will get. They are a kit carefully designed by sydneykid, a well known user on SAU. I replaced a set of JIC coilovers with these, and I will never EVER go back to shitty coilovers again in my life. These ride and handle 1000 times better, and last hell of a lot longer. They also are much better because they are multivalved so they don't need dampening adjustement, as it is all automatic inside the shock alowing the shock to perform on a wide variety of surfaces without needing adjustment, making it far superior to most other shocks. They have the standard tops on them so they make a complete unit, like a coilover. They also take about 15 mins per corner to install when ready like this. Pics: Looking for around $800 Postage will be a bit too, so please take that into consideration. Thanks for looking. Jono
  17. Ben, its a great place to pick a good corner, pull up some chairs, an esky, drink piss and watch the cars having a thrash. And some making love to the wall, haha. EVen better if you hire a ring taxi for an hour, and thrash them instead. They are late model V8 BMWs I think. Nice cars too.
  18. Ah you're one of "those". I can say that too - "I'm not the only one that thinks you're a dickhead" And making a joke, whether I want an R33GTR or R34GTR is kind of like deciding who to have sex with, Matt or Ben, was just that, a joke. But you, well, you have to take it to the "dickhead level". You're a wanker, disrupting the flow of this conversation. Might be time to f**k off back to the rock you crawled out from.
  19. thats ok you just stand in the corner and laugh like a dickhead and 12 year old. We'll keep discussing grown up things over here.
  20. The RB30 that I built was running perfect, it ran fine, and made good power until some f**k wrote off my car. Not sure what your getting at, but if you're laughing at me almost getting killed because of someone elses stupidity and lack of driving skills, you're just proving that you are more and more of a wanker. This thread was going quite well until you posted your dribble.
×
×
  • Create New...