The Mafia

Ben, are you selling your turbos? What are they? How many kms, etc?

Sorry guys. Having a f**king shit run. Got sick as a dog last week and then my grandfather passed away Saturday night. I've got plenty of people to get back to so you'll most likely hear from me via pm later tonight.

the NA blocks are just as good as the turbo blocks (exactly the same) if they are a series 2 block. They have the oil and water lines for the turbo. Just bunged up. I'd use one for the RB34 How long do you think Cals engine would last with the TO4Z on it? haha.

Ben, would t waste your time with the dirty thirty. You're better off with the dirty whore, thirty four. Haha. The rb30 cranks are a bit old to be spinning hard. The rb34 kit from spool has a billet crank in with the package. Costs $5k. Spin the f**ker to 10k and bolt twin gtx3071s on it, haha. You need to set the record straight with the xr6ts

cal, I did stacks of drags and launches and stuff, and with semi slicks and never had an axle problem. I think your problem was a bit of a fluke. Also, always let the clutch out, never side step. Too much shock, and you'll only create unwanted wheelspin.

lol, not bad

Mine did this when the bolts that hold the turbo on were loose, and it squeeled through the gasket. You know, how when you were a kid and put two gum leaves together an blew, making this shitty, annoying noise. Check those bolts.

Lol try reving it in "nutrole" again

Finally got some pics uploaded of my visit of the Nuerburgring. I'll be back there. If I decide to take a particular contract and work over there, I will definitely be taking the car with me. $2500 to ship it to the Northern part of Deutschland. Not bad I think. Here is a castle we saw on the way: And here it is.. The world Famous Nuerburgring. This GTR was racing later on in the day. Wasn't going to crazy fast though, especially after it rained. Haven't seen one of these for a long time. Here the GTR is lining up to have a race. Note this beautiful Porche gutted and fitted with a full racing compliment. BMW has a large building here. Some chick that destroyed the side of her BMW coming into this corner a little too quick after it rained. Here are the videos I posted earlier too, if anyone missed them. supra on a tow truck: http://www.users.on.net/vids/supra.wmv mad audi: http://www.users.on.net/vids/audi.wmv pair of porches: http://www.users.on.net/vids/2porches.wmv r35gtr going steady because of the rain: http://www.users.on.net/vids/r35gtr.wmv

I was just about to say that, lol. Very different turbo.

Wasn't trying to be smart, just saying. Just food for thought - I've just finished wrecking my 1996 gts-t, have a full brake setup for sale. Hubs, rotors, calipers, lines, etc. only problem I you bought it is you'd have to get new wheels because it's all 5 stud.

Be careful. They tend to surge a bit. Don't want to blow a motor.

Dude, just saying - any smart cop will see 4 studs, and turbo, and bam, you're busted. Car will no longer be road worthy, and you'll have to find r33 front hubs and brakes.

Those blue drift ones are even worse!

MCS did an absolute crap job on my original RB25\30. It lasted a whole 800 kms before it was deemed unusable. It was rev limited to 4,000rpm and 8 psi of boost. - Front main seal was pinched and rolled over. Lucky we removed the balancer to install the water pump and saw this. - lifters we left full of metal, 6 didn't bleed so I pulled and dissasembled. Got a fright at what I saw. MCS told me they were tested and fine. - Cams were scored and I was told they were ok, every other shop said they should never have been used - Cam tunnels were "touched up" with wet and dry sand paper - Inlet cam tunnel was making a horrible grinding noise - Relocated timing cam belt tensioner stud thread was "oiled" and then screwed in. No bluemax, nothing. It goes into a water galley. - Head deck was not surfaced properly. Was too rough for a metal gasket. there was visible blow out. - Piston to bore clearance was measured at around 10 thou. Should have been 1.5 thou. - Cam Cap bolts were over tightened, 4 were stretched and rooted. Lucky I removed and checked when relocating the gold baffles\covers. - Hone job seemed to be poor - as stated from the ACL ring guy. - Valve guides on exhaust were ground right back instead of being replaced. Was told it is ok to do. (Later told by numerous places that it was a very bad idea) - Had a fight about putting oil restrictors in, was told it was a bad idea and to keep the standards in. Catch can full of oil after 800 kms. We removed the head to install the restrictors, and the bores were f**ked. I was told the ring gaps were not set properly, and the piston to bore clearance was wrong. I am still going through investigations before taking further action. I called numerous times and left messages but he never got back to me, and his office admin (not his wife, the other one) was rude as every time. When I finally got a hold of him, I kindly asked for an inspection, and a possible explaination and was told by Mario himself to "get f**ked, don't want anything to do with it, take me to court if you want any money back" and he then ranted on this well practised speech about taking him to court if I want any money back. Funny thing is I never asked him for money back straight up, and if he had of just lied to me and was nice, I would have taken it as bad luck. The fact that he was an asshole and didn't even come to look at the motor made me persue. I also told him that my fully qualified diesel fitter friend looked at the motor and said that the bores were not in good shape and not to put the motor back together in its current condition, he responded with "Diesel fitters wouldn't know shit about engines etc" He said that I had run massive amounts of boost for the engine to be like that. Funny though, it never made it past 8psi at 4,000rpm. I've since had various parties look at the motor and I've been told that its a mess, and not professional. The other thing - He charged me a MASSIVE amount. $6100. This was with new cast pistons worth $350, and standard rods. This figure was double what he verbally told me. His excuse was that I kept calling and asking for extra work to be done. The only extra work I asked for was 1 hour of porting on the exhaust side. 1 hour = $110. He also never balanced the engine. Said inline 6's didn't need to be balanced. He charged me $2100 for "Assembly and to perform all necessary checks". You can't tell me it takes 20 hours to assemble an engine and check it. The front main seal was installed completely wrong etc Pretty simple check if you ask me. Seems to me no checks were done. At least 6 people I know of have had similar experiences. I would NEVER EVER take another thing there, even if he did it for free. He is arrogant, rude, charges stupid amounts, and the work I experienced was definitely not professional. It also took him 3 months to do all of this. I'm also sure if he's ever mentioned it to someone that he's telling a different story. But, the pictures, and the engine itself is enough truth. So are the reports from inspections. Curtins service was 1000 times better. I woudln't go anywhere else.

At last, someone thinking with their brain.

Well, I wouldn't take any of my gear anywhere other than Curtin engine reconditioning. They acid dipped, decked and honed my block for about $300 They also cold dipped, welded vct, surfaced, re cut valve seats, replaced valve stem seals, inspected, etc for a good price. All work was excellent, and no waiting or getting f**ked around. They are one of the most professional workshops in Mackay. Very Friendly people too. For the alternator, don't waste your time. I looked into this, and parts alone were going to be $200+. I bought a brand new 85 amp bosche that was a direct bolt on, with plug adapter and warranty for $300. Power steering pump - if you're desperate I gave mine to my mate and he now has his spare. He might sell it off for $50 or something. I can ask if you like.

There are some marks, but if you are going to paint it then this won't matter. Its a 100% Genuine nissan one (shown in the pic). They sell them for $600 unpainted new. It just clips straight on. No screws or mounts etc. Thanks

price drop to $1500. If you're interested, let me know. Box is out of the car and ready to be shipped.

I'll have pics soon mate.

I've got 2 good axles if anyone is after spares. Manged to strip most of the car this weekend.

Good work Ben, with 145mph you should be able to shit 9s in. Might be time to line up Dave Sheehy and see if you can give him a go too, would be a fun race.

bump

good for you.

these guys are exactly right - You need to tighten the cam down a bit at a time to not put to much stress at one end etc. I should have put more detail. Do it in stages, like a turn or two for each cap. if you watch when you are tightening you can see which caps are under weight (The valve pushing back) and you can easily work out the correct way to pull the cam down in a level fashion. it would be a real c#nt buggering an expensive poncam lol, even more of a bitch if it snapped while running and ruining an entire engine, and all of your hard work. Just take it easy and be REALLY patient. It does take a while.