The Mafia

I'd try a different gauge (decent one) and a leak down test. But, those figures are shit, engine is about to blow son.

The extra torque and pull from lower speeds to higher speeds is moving \ pulling the belt more, creating more friction... Hence why I think its a little obvious

Compression and leak down test to be 100% sure. But sounds like its new turbo time to me.

Nope, can't adjust an actuator. You'll need to buy a lower rated one.

Can only go as low as the actuator. But you're kinda wasting your time doing what you want to do..

Short answer - you do not need a FPR.

Lol at "help" for a title.

The problem is pretty straight forward - if it's got room to jump a rib, then it starts running at a very slight angle giving it a chance to climb up the edge of the pulley. Once it's at an angle, it's going to wander, so you need a pulley that is the same width of the belt. I thought that may seem obvious?

I doubt there is any damage, but it's been dodgied up. Get the AFMs and get a proper tune, the guy tuning should be able to tell you what else you need to do to make it safe.

310awkw with stock AFMs? Sounds like a hand grenade to me. Get it checked by a professional.

Simple test - turn the boost down to 9psi and I bet it stops cutting. It's a built in protection in the ECU, you need an aftermarket ECU and tune.

Brakes, gearbox, and hubs are all different on a NA model

white smoke sounds like the seals in your turbo have gone. But, I'd do a full compression and leak down test before you do anything.

I have available: Left and Right side Round Lights Front Brakes, rotors and hubs Doors, windows etc Door Cards Rear seat Parcel Shelf All Boot Carpets All Dash bits Series 2 Dash Cluster with 120,000kms Series 1 Dash Cluster with 100,000kms Aircon Compressor Clutch Master and Slave cylinder ummm, thats all I can think of for now

yeah mate, managed to get most things out to people, got 1 thing left to send actually. What are you after? I have available: Left and Right side Round Lights Front Brakes, rotors and hubs Doors, windows etc Door Cards Rear seat Parcel Shelf All Boot Carpets All Dash bits Series 2 Dash Cluster with 120,000kms Series 1 Dash Cluster with 100,000kms Aircon Compressor Clutch Master and Slave cylinder ummm, thats all I can think of for now

not really - I still ahven't seen a plastic compressor, even though I have visually inspected a few GTT and GTS-T turbos. If you want to keep crapping on about shit thinking your winning, good for you. Whatever makes you sleep better at night.

have you put the factory bypass valve back on to confirm that it is not the BOV? If you haven't tried it then you are wasting our time and your own time.

No need mate. There are dots you line up on the crank, and cam gears. Just line all the dots up and slip the belt on. I urge you to check it 10 times and have a smart mate look and see if the dots line up good. I had my iPhone down there taking pics of the crank dot because you can't get your head down there to look at it straight on. Once all the dots are lined up, slip the belt on and problem solved. You shouldnt really use marks and hop it goes on in the same place anyway, that's just being hopeful, and not good practice.

There was a thread about something similar to this a few days ago. I suggest you have a look. People on SAU don't like repeating themselves on a weekly basis.

Out of the few series 2 and gtt turbos I've seen, theyve certainly looked steel to me. Even my 1996 was a steel wheel turbo. And it was all original. Had the jap papers to prove it. And thats hardly the case slatterly - did you read a few threats where some wanker like yourself has posted for the 35,547th time that his car stalls because he's installed a bov on a system that wasn't meant to leak just to sound cool? As I said, I've seen many gts-ts and gtts and never seen a plastic compressor. Either someone is playin tricks on me or it's just luck that some were steel.

It's an alloy. How can you spin nylon at 100,000rpm and have it not flex, warp, or fly to pieces? Last I heard, there was a nylon spacer. That's about it.

The last few ive touched have been some sort of light weight alloy. Not plastic.

So you're just going from what the internet says, with nonform of confirmation, or have you actually touched one, and inspected one closely? You obviously haven't. You also obviously don't realise how much stress a compressor wheel has to endure.

It's not a hair dryer, or a electric supercharger. It's a turbo charger. They can reach speeds of up to 150,000 rpm,nare balanced to perfection, and have a lot of pressure applied to the compressor wheel due to physics. Do you think something made of plastic or nylon would be able to withstand this? Have the people crapping on about them being made of plastic even seen a real one? I guess the pistons inside your engine need to be light, so let's just make them out of plastic too?

I think you better go back and do your homework. Something that spins at 100,000rpm cannot be made of nylon. Do you even know what sort of torture a turbo charger goes through?