StevenCJR31

sounds simple enough, how do you get the wrench down deep enough as the springs sit in (what i can only describe) a deep recess?, i was suprised when i started stripping this down that the valves had only a single spring

^^ really?? sheeit i thought they only hired out car trailers and cements mixers and that sorta thing shoota you are correct, cant find a cheap - one use only to buy here had a pm from jiffo and he said to use an engine reconditioner to strip the head down, no doubt they use pneumatic tools to strip down a head in no time at all- i might go with that idea as the head will need the seat reworked(refaced deck) and the vct mod for the 30 bottom end that ive got lined up thanks for the replies guys, much appreciated

thankyou, that looks like what im after, do you know if its available in aus as the postage is more than double the price of the item?

hi, looking at repairing a damaged valve seat on a rb25det head; therefore i need to remove /reinstall the valves, so far the tools ive looked at arent suitable, can anyone here recommend a suitable tool with the part number? keep in mind im only going to use it once!

^^^ ha ha beat me to it. . . replace "missus" with exwife

so its pretty much the same amount of work as boosting a rb25de neo , the only difference in my mind is that the 25de neo would take boost better as it doesnt have the disavantage of the light weight bottom end that the 20neo has

^^ no, not related

^^ most likely he is asking for bearings for a gtst (looking at his profile)

you are probably outta luck with an off the shelf kit, can you use 32 gtst turbo gear etc ?

^^ quite correct , the two manifolds LOOK similar but are in fact very different

the rb 20 plenum doesnt even come close to fitting on an r32 25de head, at least not without a LOT of work

be prepared to do that frequently

no it wont fit and why are you trying?

youll probably find that there wont be any std size rings that would suit your power requirements as soon as you go oversize it will open up your options

the cast liners in the L series were there in conjuction with air injection nozzles in the exhaust manifold, i would assume it would be there for some kind of afterburner effect to clean up the exhaust emissions. . . good thing we have ecus/cats to do this now!

correct me if im wrong but that pdf doesnt contain the info about neo heads that the OP is asking about?

thanks for the info, well done on your research

nothing much to worry about then,the few things wrong with it are cheap to fix

hopefully the quality will have improved with time, id be annoyed if i spent hours fitting up a china intake just to have the bastard leak on me

hell yeah, depending on the particular intake / car some other stuff may have to be moved around (battery??)to accomodate the repositioned tb but it would be worth it just for the better accesss to plugs/ignition coils

from what ive read here before the power gains arent that significant on a ffp

if the nut is frozen with rust then wd40 wont always get it off, IF YOU CAN then gently heat the nut up with a small gas torch until the nut glows red,then it should be able to be undone obviously check there is nothing flammable in the area

no one?

its not like the new pumps are hugely expensive either, genuine is around the $300 mark

you are quite correct, the 1J no sequential turbo but the 2j did jc cosmo had sequential (1990 to 1995) toyota supra mark 4 had sequential mazda rx7 fd3s had sequential