Stock e-Tune

Do you mind if I ask who welded the gate pipe to two of the ex-pipes? Was that from 6 boost or done afterwards?

Hi All, Need an RB25DE Piston or two, must be standards bore not overized. One of them didn't respond well to a second NOS stage. Any help appreciated. KR Simon http://www.stocketune.com [email protected] ECU Calibration Engineer -Tuner

ok, lets clear this one up. non-recirc BOV will not cause idle issue unless its faulty or not installed correctly (airleak etc), although it may cause 'decay to idle' mixture issues if DFCO not working or tuned/operating correctly. manual trans vented BOV MAF tuned vehicles often exibit a puff of black smoke from the exhaust during on-boost gear changes, but not usually as often in automatic MAF vehicles due to less throttle changes from boost to closed throttle. The puff of smoke (incorrect air fuel ratio) is due to the loss of air that the ECU metered and sprayed fuel for that left the vented BOV to atmosphere. The BOV regardless of venting design, releases pressure during a closed throttle condition (vacuum) where boost pressure exists between turbo and throttle plate. When a recirculating BOV is installed the air venting from the BOV is directed back at the Turbo intake side preventing more air being meter by MAF. In a MAFless tune this is not required (in a offroad car) to be plumbed back and not an emissions issue unless the turbo is worn. When the turbo is worn, oil contaminants can enter the atmosphere from the BOV due to worn seals, bushing, bearing etc, causing an EPA emissions compliance issue. Whether or not BOV is installed, or its recirculating or not, total power is not sacrificed, The only time a noticeable delay in power production (lag) may occur is due to the turbo impellers stalling. This happens when the the engine transitions from boost to closed throttle and the excess air pressure pre-throttle body has nowhere to go but stall the turbo from spinning momentarily. note: this also stalls the exhaust flow creating stale burnt mixture to be processed by the engine for several rpms. This inturn increases the time it takes to get back on boost and accelerating through the selected gear. If the engine can not run correctly with a venting BOV then it most likely had issues to begin with, they just became more obvious. Most issues with venting to atmosphere BOV's are with MAF tunes not MAP/MAFless. MAF tuned vehicles require more considerations in intake airflow design and tuning to minimize these issues. I've tuned many RB's at WSID drag/circuit & Wakefield. I must say I much prefer the MAF setups for flexibility reasons, I haven't come across a MAF tuned vehicle with a vented BOV we couldn't sort out. The MAP/MAFless tunes are great also but tend to require more tweaking to stay on song for every occasion. I hope this helps..

I think the comment "never if you have the right injectors" is misguided somewhat regarding regulator. a few reasons you may install an adjustable fpr would be: 1. when you increase boost, need to ensure f/pressure is not going to exceed HP f/pumps supply (pressure vs volume) 2. if you change camshaft, often less vaccum causes from larger cam profiles cause high f/pressure 3. as forementioned, if the aftermarket rail doesn't have a fitting for stock FPR. (should be a no brainer for the tuner) 4. if large injectors are used and have poor low pulse width control. 5. if trying to improve fuel economy. (often best to run higher pressure where possible) 6. different fuels being used, eg, methanol/e85/m85/e10 etc. high fuel pressure with higher content of alcohol. if you want to run e85, other fuel system consideratinos must be made first, fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, compatible fuel regulator etc. but thats another day. The 850cc's are fine for a little while longer, this time depends on the duty cycle at the highest rpm the engine is designed to reach and of course if the fuel pump can supply the volume at that higher pressure (base pres + boost pres).

You could also buy a small 12 to 18mm bung adapter to get you out of trouble.

If you are near sydney, pop past and I'll check your mixtures for you, I think you'd struggle to damage a stock setup though. seen many RB's thrashed with severe fueling issues, when the engine are only making stock numbers it often doesn't hurt them to run lean. If the injectors are a problem, a miss fire, or loss of power would be quite noticeable.

It's fairly normal for the engine's piston rings and/or valve guides to show signs of wear this way. The oil becomes contaminated by combustion fumes slipping past the rings.. If it's not consuming excessive amounts of oil it is probably not detrimental. If the valves/valve stem seals are worn often a slight trail of black smoke can be seen when decelerating (down a hill or during down gearing). If the rings are worn, a little more than normal oil consumption would be noticed. The engine will use a small amount of oil as per normal and even more when raced for long periods. The higher the boost, often the faster the contamination due to higher cylinder pressures. Sime

might be an idea to replace the other coils in the set. As you're a student then buy 2 coils and replace/swap them over two at a time. making sure to leave the new ones in long enough to be sure the fault has gone..

Looks like a typical idle control motor.. The oil pressure sender is next to starter motor on the offside towards rear. in fact, its the only sensor on that side of the block. If you unscrew it, it will leed to a hole in the block, often 80% blocked with sludge.

Hi there, I'm after some connectors to rebuild a CR31 wiring loom. Is your offer still available? if so require (dizzy 4-way), (TPS 3-way), (CTS 2-way left keyed), (injectors 2-way centred keyed), (idle control 2-way right keyed) connectors. I think they are called 'timer' connectors. Any help appreciated

too new, sounds like an inside job! where did you buy them from? who has access to the customer database? sorry to hear it. was watching conspiracy theory last night. note: paranoid schizophrenia is a state of mind that is often self inflicted from years of sniffing nitro-methanol blends, so I'm told

Installing a 7v relay to bypass the pump drive control circuits is a quick fix if the module is faulty.

After a read through this thread I saw a few area's that could improve your head job's so they last longer. Don't have a boosted block or head milled. The milling swirl marks are an uneven surface and a head gasket blow out waiting to happen. Hylomar is great but not required if you do the job correctly, nothing beats a perfectly clean flat surface for making the best seal. Always get the Block and Head checked and or machined smooth instead of milling. Always rub down the threaded bolt hole areas on your block with a flat block or glass with some wet'ndry paper attached. (pulling down a head will raise the thread in those area's a few thou). Run a blind tap through the head stud hole to ensure they are clean and squirt some carby cleaner in them to wash them out. Never put head bolts in dry, either head stud sealer or suitable friction modifier. Always smear engine oil on the head stud washers or head bolt washers or you'll never get them torqued correctly. Follow the specific Torque sequence in stages like 30, 60, 80. I always do the last tension setting twice and but never again. The larger the head studs diameter, the more torque is required to get the same pull down affect as a smaller bolt/stud. Blown head gaskets can leak any where; Water in to oil (easily found by draining the sump and watching water come out first, this can happen after the car has been warmed up and then switched off) Oil in to water whilst running (usually found at the highest point in the cooling system) Cylinder pressure in water (blowing up radiators and blowing pipes off) Blow-by in Oil (making the rocker cover choof pulsations like an old truck) and blow straight out the side some where. note: A cracked head or piston can cause some of these symtoms also. If you suspect cracked head, inspect the cam bearings closely for abnormal wear and/or remove them to inpect for cracks. I hope this helps

I can add that buying E85 at the pump will only give many inconsistent results. Preferred race fuel is C16 or Aviation fuels as they prove to be more stable throughout the year. As for Power, Methanol makes a bigger bang but more costly to obtain. You will require some form of license in most developed countries.

I think it largely depends on who has tuned it. but still ends up back with the Drivers ability to control the foot as well !!

Love it, I've had my customers switch images via hardware but it relies on the driver to have some idea rather than be asked. NICE WORK!! Has Matt added this code to his latest beta?

Once you get your final tune I can probably help you on switching tunes. The ECU can be setup with a security feature or a different tunes for different fuel etc. Let me know what the part number is and I'll double check. I can run up to 4 different tunes in the R31 ECU and most switchable on the fly. Kind regards Sime

When it comes to drag racing, We were given 2 legs, a GO leg, a STOP leg. The best clutch is one that isn't there. There must be a decent Manual valve body Auto out there!! Seriously though, if you got 50,000 from the last one and abused it that much. How much power were you smashing through it?

If there is no link between boost controller and gear shifter, Sounds like the motor is choking. Check basic maintenance items. The motor is under greater load as you go up through the shifts and it's struggling to breath.

Hi, You have a few options that I can think of; SMT6 or MAF translator PRO Honestly, I've had some debatable success with both BUT........ The cost of either one has not made either a very logical way to attack the problem, so upgrading the MAF & correcting the voltage translations in Nistune has been my preffered way. Obviously this depends on Nistune support of your ECU. Otherwise an Aftermarket system is the next most expensive option.