mercyseat

My mechanic put the fuild in so not sure which brand he used. Theres more than one issue going on apart from the power steering pump being loud. It seems to be stuck on a higher rev when the fault occurs or you can hear it revving higher and as mentioned it stops when i turn the car off/on again. It maybe something not cooling the ps fluid enough under high revs, it might be something is blocked ... Its going to the Nissan tuning specialist this week for a week to try to narrow down the exact cause. I can drive around locally with zero issues its only when im out on the freeway at 80-120kms p/hr after about 30mins when the winding noise starts. When the fault originally started with the old pump I could hit the accelerator pedal to rev it and it would go away but eventually that didnt help. She warms up ok at 1000rpm then down to 800rpm when warm. Oil cooler temp when warming up is on tab up from 4 but then lowers to halfway but does fluctuate under stick. Car temp is fine especially now we have a new clutch fan installed. Note: The noise was happening pre-new clutch fan. Below is a photo of cold vs warm on the dash when normal. It could be a million things. Hence dropping it off to Nissan specialists this week. Not a dealer, a reputable tuning/build mechanic that deals in JDM only cars. Will post later this week a photo of the tacho when the fault occurs cause I need it to fault before i get to the mechanics on the day i drop it off.

That was the next port of call. My mechanic was gonna have for a few days to go through every hose/clamp. Are there any small filters in any of the hoses? I can't get it in til 23rd Nov so might take her up to the power steering joint this afternoon and get them to do a once over cause I figure they can spot power steering faults quicker. And if it aint the power steering then we can move onto other causes. Its definately lacking flow when hot and under speed 80-100kms after a good 30min run on the freeway. Got it on the M3 here at Hoddle St and by the time I got to Ringwood exit on the way back she started making the noise. The current reco pump was ok for 3 weeks but same issue came back so reluctant to install another pump until we figure out the cause.... Maybe its a tensioner or could even be the a/c too as its on that same size.

Does the R33 Series 2 GTST turbo run a power steering cooling system? Its got the HICAS system. Im thinking maybe its not cooling correctly OR Only other idea is that its being blocked from fluid running somewhere at high speed. Or it maybe revving too high at 80-100kms We've bled the system numerous times, cleaned the reservoir out, its not cavetating, no air bubbles, no heavy steering, car isnt over heating. Starts up from cold ok at 1000rpm then once warm drops to approx 800rpm. Been through two power steering pumps with BOTH having exactly same fault. Current one was ok for 3 weeks then started making the noises again.... The issue only happens out on the freeway doing 80-100kms per hr after at least 30-45mins.... Im trying to get it into a nissan workshop now OR maybe taking it up to the power steering joint cause Im outta ideas.

Price Drop $12,000 Rego til October 2018 Plus current VIC Roadworthy certificate Plus brand new Vialia Gas Converter just fitted ($918) as of 2/11/2017. PM for details

Heres a few original pics of the car on stock R34 rims. Build Date: 11/1997 ECR33-133971 1997 Series 2.5 R33 GTST Turbo Coupe Automatic LP2 Midnight Purple Originally registered here with 96,400kms, currently has 99,000kms now approx. Zero modifications upon arrival. Only mods to date are updated 18" rims.

We found out yesterday after the pump started making noise was a few facts: Note: my car is AUTOMATIC RB25-DET 1/ The power steering noise starts after driving on the freeway at 80-120kms on throttle after slowing down after at least a 30min trip.Doesn't happen when cold or short trips. 2/ When the fault occurs (power steering noise) the car seems to be stuck on higher revs than normal idling approx 1000-2000 revs. So at fault we have the noisy power steering pump PLUS a higher rev stuck ON. The idle only lowers once the car is turned off/on again. At that time the power steering pump noise goes away again temporarily. Once the car is turned off/on again the idle lowers to normal again but if I keep driving it normally after the fault you can start to hear the pump noise again. So wondering now if I've got a problem with the car's idle at high speed? When it warms up in the morning she revs higher til warm then she lowers to normal so no issue's here. The problem only happens after a good min half hour run on the freeway. Any ideas? Cause I'm running out of them.

Price Drop $13,000 With rego til October 2018 Plus a VIC RWC Need gone want to buy a GTR. PM if interested Coburg , VIC

It's going back to my mechanic Tuesday who knows all the power steering stuff . He's gonna do some more tests, check for possible air leaks and checkout the reservoir, valves, kinked hoses who knows what's causing it but it seems to be when she's hot and on the freeway under pressure so was thinking it might be the regulator if they have one... Probably get him to take each belt off to see if it's something else like the timing belt too tight as it's been changed recently. It's not getting any bubbles coming up when I'm driving it around normally twice this week so it's just a bit of an odd problem unfortunately.

What type of power steering fluid should you be using for these cars? Does it have to be a specific type? Also do these cars have regulators , regulating flow when the cars run harder/faster?

Checked out my spare reservoir and you can't change the internal filter... Looks like a sealed part sold as one piece.

My mate came to see the car. Definitely blown turbo, clutch gone, and a heap of what iffs going on as well so walked away cause the guy still wanted too much for it as is.

Power steering place that did the reco think that the reservoir filter might be blocked with crap. He said if it was the valve it would be making the noise all the time... So dropping the car into them tomorrow to be looked at. Just gonna check each other bit in the chain.

The 1st pump was damaged after a car accident...pully screwed. 2nd pump we just took out of the donor car I bought and put it in without testing it. 3rd pump is second hand but is reconditioned. My mechanic let all the air out after fixing it and gave me a lesson on why you need to get rid of all the bubbles etc. But I'll ask him to check out the vaccum leak on the fluid return line & the valve cause we definately checked that it wasnt producing bubbles. I even let it sit with the top off overnight to ensure all the air was out. My mechanic is the bomb he has a engineering degree and been building/racing cars for years I guess its hard to know/check it when it only happens when its hot. When I first took it in he told me to take it out on the freeway and get it hot cause he wanted to hear the noise. He used his stethascope to listen to the last pump and he said it was gone. Hes very good & well respected. So no issues there. His policy is though new parts only, no second hand stuff so he said this new one may fail again as hes seen it happen before I just didnt have $950 and didnt even know if Nissan sell them anymore. We fixed it whilst doing the fan clutch at the same time to save labour.

It goes away as soon as you turn off / on but once the car is warmed up and hot under accelleration it comes back. I just pull over stop, then turn the car off, wait a few seconds then restart it up. That seems to temp stop it but if you drive it hard and over 80-100kms it will come back. I can drive around locally without any issues but as soon as it starts getting to 80-100kms for a long period of time the noise comes back. But the last one just got worse more often so it will only deteriorate im assuming.

Nope no issues with steering at all other than the stupid belt / bearing noise...shes fine when cold. Think I'll just bite the bullet and get a new oem one outta nissan japan assuming they still have them in production.

Well looks like the reconditioned pump has failed AGAIN.... Did a trip down to Hoppers Crossing and back and she started making the noise again as I was almost home[emoji33] Only plays up after its hot. Only stops when you physically pull over, turn off the car then start the car again. But it does comeback eventually. Really annoying. Does anyone know how to fix the power steering pump properly? Or ended up buying a new oem one? Im wondering if there is some other issue going on now. Is there a way that the power steering cools itself down?

Very Nice car[emoji1303]

Well I was thinking of putting in a lower offer knowing the car probably needs a new engine & gearbox. But not sure what's the price of a S1 GTR shell in that condition? Cause the body was rust-free from what I could see. But there's a few other car's I've seen, so just taking my time. Like I mentioned the guy didn't really know the full history of the car on this occasion and was a nice guy not dodgy. Just hate seeing car's so neglected [emoji849]

Car will also have a VIC Roadworthy Certificate as of today. As suspected only needed two rear tyres to pass[emoji41] So that's rego til October 2018 PLUS a Roadworthy PM for more details if interested.

Thanks for the turbo information! I guessed one was stuffed. I'm just not interested in rusty cars or car's that require over $15k worth of work. I'll probably just save more and import my own eventually.

$33-$35k The last two were originally asking $35k but both just not ticking the boxes for me or negotiating price.

They're not negotiable on price so not worth it for me.

Yeah I'm not a mechanic but I reckon a full rebuild is on hand if its original 139,000kms+. Even the injectors were that brittle bits had broken off before we even inspected it. So didn't bother with a compression test. That was just the start of the list. Timing belt, power steering pump, clutch bearing, rotors, front diff seal leaking, radiator hoses collapsing, exhaust leak but it was the turbo noise and clutch/steering noises that counted me out. Shame cause it had a good rust free body. Just needed a lotta love by a mechanic and/ new engine/turbos. Im finding its either one or the other...good body/bad engine or bad body / good engine..[emoji23] All good. Happy to wait for a suitable car to come up for sale. Not in any rush to buy. I got my LP2 S2 coupe to have fun in so not too worried. Im learning alot as I look. I had to walk away cause $32k just wasnt anywhere near where i am at for this car. The person selling it wasn't dodgy at all just selling with the only knowledge he knew about the car. Hence my reason for a check.

No smoke but i was a passenger so didnt checkout the rear whilst we were driving... Wasnt blowing smoke before we left but did have a whirly noise thing also going on. Just sounded like a balloon deflating each time it accellerated into 2nd, 3rd etc engaging the turbo. Car was stock. Clunky clutch too...bearing gone i think. Steering wheel had weird ass noises behind the airbag bit too, noisy. Just lacked power/torque unlike the car i saw last week... Overall very average.

Hi Was checkin out a S1 R33 gtr and can't seem to figure out what was wrong with the turbo. On acceleration it's making like some of all I can describe as a farting noise. Definitely isn't working properly. Definitely not boosting as the last car I viewed. Just wanted to know is that am expensive fix if stuffed? OR Anyone got any videos of a blown turbo or anything that sounds vaguely familiar.? Trying to figure out the root of the problem.