Bronx

lol, i have no idea why everyone is having so much trouble. i installed it from disk, took me 8 minutes. origin got installed in one go, i still had my ea account from BC2. as soon as it was installed, went straight into a server, all my settings on ultra maxed out and its running fine. have not had a single problem besides some servers having the rubber banding issue. but yeah that web browser server shit is annoying. running i7 860 @ 3.5ghz 16gb ddr3 1800mhz NO SSD's 2 sets of 2x 2tb in raid GTX 570 Windows 7 ultimate

@ console fags, wheres your 64 player MP???

is yours automatic or manual? RWD or AWD? i know the s2 rs4s has eyelet tops and a different bottom mount on the rear. i dont remember which was which. check here: Stagea Suspension

i run some 235 tyres on the rear of my stagea, and i break traction in first gear easily, with no clutch dumps just acceleration. so just be aware of that, since we have no traction control

yeah that whole web browser setup was shit, my maps take about 30 secs to load, my mates computer running ssd in raid, takes about 5 secs to load. damn lucky bastard online play is pretty wicked, maps are awesome, graphics are through the roof, gameplay is as realistic as you could get putting some things aside like repairing and resurrecting people etc. 64 player gets pretty hectic and sometimes you will lose track of whats going on. some maps have some pretty annoying rubberbanding. i havent come accross any glitches or errors in the game yet so thats a pretty sweet spot. origin username is Bronx1987 if anyone is interested

game. be. epic. *head blows off* but there are still rocket launcher fags....... but 64 player, is just beyond words! *drool*

saving weight hes got right, hell save close to 70-80kg if he removes of front shafts, front diff, and changes gearbox to one without a transfer case. or for the same price, you could get a full exhaust, fmic, boost kit and possibly a nistune. you would feel more from that. only go full RWD if you wish to go for Drift. other than that there is no need

nop, its the case, done and tested on series 1 stageas, aka r33 engines, BUT you need to be 100% sure it fits, if you look up secret squirrel trick? you should find a post about all the s1 s2 and r34 ecu plugs.

ive done that for the entire 2 years ive had my stagea, but cannot be bothered starting another argument with some other members. so never posted it i just called it "diagnostics mode"

you still have to go into diagnostic mode tho if you drop the front shaft ? since its noticing that your fronts aren't turning it will transfer your power to the front so you will send it to nowhere and still loose power in the ass half.

triton

buy a rwd gearbox and a rwd sump for the awd engine block. easiest way of doing it. dont know how to get your ecu to stop displaying the AWD error light tho. may cost you a bit extra, but then again will be more fun and you can avoid the whole "damaging your transfercase" topic And on series 2 you cant just pull the fuse, thats a r32gtr trick. series 2 will still keep your transfercase engaged since it doesnt release the pressure on the clutch packs, just stops the on off motion if you want, to do it, remove the front driveshafts and go into rwd diagnostics mode. that way your 100% sure nothing gets damaged at all.

N/A was 2.25" gtt was 2.5"

why would anyone upgrade/ downgrade to a rb26 from a neo motor? the neo motor is much more revised, plus shares heaps of parts with the rb26. besides the ecu being able to run twin airflows and o2 sensors. only thing you cant use from rb motors is the pistons which the r33 rb25 and the rb26 share. i still say the rb25 neo beats the rb26. also didnt the awd stageas get a rb26 equivalent block just not coded 05u since we have the awd pan and the neo block didnt fit the awd pan? so technically block, rods and cams are interchangeable/same. were just missing 100cc.

uuuh, really??? just design a brand new aircon module just for a station wagon??? i thought our front cut of the stagea is identical to the r33... i need to educate myself more.

so i wonder how the steel wheels managed to get stuck on the stagea????? maybe had some extra steel wheels floating around and nissan said lets just throw em on random turbos.... bahaha id rather buy a garrett turbo than spend fkn 1500 on a stock new one......

sure you didnt put a rb25det with rwd into your gtr shell????

yeah, i havnt had a turbo swap on my car, 100% sure on that, that thing was sooo rusted into the manifold, sure it was stock. im guessing that 2000 onwards or late 2000 models had a steel wheel. I was pretty surprised when i found out should have swapped front wheels on the turbo, now im scared that plastic thing is gonna blow off. im running 13psi, might need to turn down now.

really, r34 had 3 series? wow, but they had a short lifespan, 98-01 right? so one year per series nearly. all i know my compressor housing says 45v3 so makes sense. wonder what the power difference was between the 3 series's, turbo lag and fuel consumption.

aaah, indeed. well i guess it isnt steel. steel is attracted to magnets right? so alloy? also i didnt know there were 3 series cars. always thought that both r33 and r34 both only had 2 series each. i will see into this some more. also my nylon plastic turbo has twin blades on the front, just like the alloy one

i have a better idea, the next person who asks that question we will tell them to do it and that its possible. and then when they complain it gets too expensive and jadda jadda jadda. we all direct him to the last 50billion threads asking the same fkn question. just to see what they do

i think the r33gtr radiator did fit, there was a thread just before this somewhere asking the same question, try searching for it. but in regards to the r34 radiator, i wouldnt know, i always thought they were thicker than the other skylines. dont quote me on that tho.

ebay, japanese wreckers etc. r33 aircon unit will fit. possibly the r34 as well, but not 100% on that. anything r33 related you should be able to find billions of.

cmon, 500-600hp should not be hard to achieve, but only with money. on stock, you should be able to hit just above 300hp atw. but at the 500-600hp you need to basically start from scratch. entire rebuild on your motor, balancing, reco your head etc. i am also willing to get to those numbers but only in a couple of years. i will be changing to a rb25 twin turbo setup though. i will be trying to run twin rb25 turbos just to see what i can get. first things firs, im getting my turbo cores replaced with new ones and alloy/steel wheels but staying at stock specs, no highflow. then a nice new headgasket setup. i already have FMI, power fc and full exhaust and currently trying to mod rb26 manifolds to fit t3 turbos and rb25 head. but there will be a heap of money spent through out the next couple of months/years

here are some pictures, i dont know what those random marks on the rear of it are though