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Currently using an 8mm hole. Its been 3 weeks since I did it. I will try a 6mm hole next time. I tried a CRC degreaser and it was hopeless. Only good enough to clean up the oil rather than the black gum. It would be good if we can get some accurate details to how to block off the EGR completely without throwing a code.

I performed the intake clean the other week. It was pretty bad like most of the picks the in thread. After 30k since cleaning the throttle body, the back on the plate had a fine layer of carbon but wasn't too bad. Most of the time is taken up in the cleaning so best to use the a good cleaner; I found the Nulon throttle body and carby cleaner the best but went through several cans of it. Others have used Oven cleaner but you have to be careful with it as its caustic and will eat the aluminium (so people reckon) I PM'd a few people on their solutions for blanking the EGR and using a resistor but got no response so decided to use a small hole in the plate to restrict EGR inflow. Not sure on how much of a difference this will make but will keep an eye on things. No error code so far so may try going a smaller hole. There are a few new intake cleaners coming on to the market that promise to help address cleaning the intake. Revive Engine Cleaner and Terra Clean are a couple of brands that regularly pop up with good reviews but I'm not sure of the availability in Aus/NZ.

I'm finding I'm having to reset the Air bag light every 3-4 weeks. Is this usually a symptom of a faulty connector or something more serious? I presume if a module is faulty, it would throw a code straight away. I somehow got the airbag light into a diagnostic mode and it flashed once and then ten times and repeats. I couldn't find any reference to this code anywhere. Anybody know what this code refers to? Thanks

I would have thought that any poor fuel mileage would only be when the car is cold? I take it when the engine is cold, the EGR is open and as the car comes up to temperature, the EGR is closes. Having a cleaner intake should improve my fuel consumption (its not too bad now) Presumably, the EGR temp sensors resistance is low when cold and is at a certain value when hot. If I can get to the sensor easy enough, I could disconnect the connector and measure the resistance when its cold and when its hot.

Hello Scott, is this the temp sensor that causes the ECU to throw a code when the EGR is blocked? I was hoping that some of the people who have done this would be able to provide details on how they resolved it.

I'm planning to clean the intake soon. From what I've read in this thread, its the EGR that causes the black crud and its recommended to block this off. However to stop the ECU throwing an error code you need to use a 10ohm resister across the temp sensor. Can some please detail the fix and sensor location? Also a few people have re-routed the breather hose or recommended to use a oil catch can. Can someone detail the re-routing the breather hose option? Thanks

I stand corrected. I tried my cut key again tonight and my car started. It must have a factory alarm as scotty mentioned.

Here go Chris. It appears to be like any other 300GT key

I haven't heard anyone of this forum discuss their V35 having "factory alarm" without it being a NATS. I have the usual windows label, the flashing LED labelled "Security" on the steering column, car turns over without starting when using cut key etc. Chris Rogers wrote in his V35 FAQ on immobilisers, "all of them have a factory one and that it is not compliant with insurance nor OZ stds ADR 82/00. Exception is the M35 Stagea" Its not a requirement of importers to remove the factory immobiliser in NZ.

My 300GT is a P Collections and it has the factory immobiliser and transponder key. I had Mr Minit cut me a spare and they tried to "detect" the transponder but were unable to offer a replacement. The car won't start with the cut key, just turns over. I presume this is the same NATS security that the 350GT versions have.

Thanks sonicii, good to know on the camber. Did you find the 350z spring/V35 shocks combo less harsh than the stock sports suspension? I presume the 350z came out with stiffer shocks as standard and is likely to be the reason in my setup that I'm not getting the rave reviews I was expecting . I've seen 350z "Track Edition" springs and shocks advertised and the spring markings are the same as standard.

Is it general consensus that if you are putting 350z springs on a V35 sedan, the shocks should be replaced with 350z shocks as well (even if using sports suspension shocks)? I put on the unrevised 350z springs over the weekend and they feel less harsh on the road than the sports suspension. I'm preferring the bumpier feedback the sports suspension provides. Did anyone get uneven wearing of the tires with 350z suspension? The camber can't be adjusted without a kit and g35driver are differing to whether camber kits are required with a relatively small drop. Had a wheel alignment done which showed the camber is around 1 degree on both sides which way less than the resulting 1.5 degrees they are usually getting the G35. Regards.

Just to close this off for future reference; I contacted Nissan Japan and their response was to only use the LFR5AQP plugs in the VQ30DD. Concerning VQ30DD engine, high-pressure air-fuelmixture is injected directly into a cylinder, and the stress of a spark plug increases accordingly. We performed durability test with specified plugs. We do not recommend you to use other plugs than designated ones since we are unable to guarantee the performance and safety.<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;">

Sorry for dragging up an old thread but it didn't give a defiinite yes or no to the question. Has anyone used the LFR5AIX-11 in their 300GT? NGK gave me a very reponse to my question on the replacement LFR5AQP is a 4-ground electrode plug with a 1.70mm spark gap. To go to Iridium the only option is a single ground electrode type plug. LFR5AIX-11 is the best option we can offer. It has the same thread dimensions, however is a single ground electrode design plug with a 1.1mm spark gap. The only issue is the projection of the plug into the combustion chamber. LFR5AQP had a total projection from the end of the thread of 3.5mm. LFR5AIX-11 has a projection of 7.1mm, meaning it will protrude into the cylinder an extra 3.6mm. Does this give enough clearance?

Sorry for bringing up an old thread.... But can someone tell me whether a key that has been programmed for another car can be re-programmed? I have an idea to use a key from a wrecked V35 and turn it into a fob as a spare.

Two months ago, my V35 Airbag light started flashing. I did the reset procedure and it hasn't come back on since. It seems quite common in Nissans to get false positives but if you've done the reset procedure correctly, definitely get it checked out

Question regarding the interior colour. The interior of the my 2001 300GT console is a dull khaki dark greyish colour which I assume is Willow (its certainly no silver or black). There appears to be differences in the jdm colour advertised on ebay, some mention it is a silver/willow, some willow has dark grey on the vents. This is the closest I've found to my interior but the seller won't ship to NZ. Does anyone have any information about the interior colours available for the V35 and G35?

Looks good. Is that a Metra Kit or Original? How well does the colour matching with the G35 kits go with the V35 interiors especially on a 2001 300GT?

There is a how to on the removal of the CD's on youtube Chris - With the cartridge removed as in the video, will the radio, tape, AC etc still function or is there a self check it does that will make it spit the dummy? I'm going to have to decide whether to add Ipod interface or do the financially painful change to a double din setup. Not looking forward to it.

Hello Chris, with the CD Error F0, whats the best procedure to remove the CD's?

In the weekend, I changed the fan belts on a mates 2004 V35 6MT 350GT sedan. His skyline came with the sports suspension. While under the car, I noted front sway bar had the marking C4 06 written on it. Can any let me know what these numbers indicate and whether the differ from your own OEM sway bar? Thanks

The V35 is a standard size and weight across all models. I believe there is a 250GTm which is 40-50kg lighter than the other models. 260HP vs 215HP for the same weight car is a big difference so naturally the 300GT is faster. The big thing I noticed about driving the 350GT (drove a mates 6spd manual) was the impressive bottom end torque it produced, hard to compare though against an automatic. The 250GT is rated at 8.3l/100kms which is comparable to most 4 cylinder 2litre cars of comparable HP. I know a few people who bought the 250GT because of this and because the VQ series is a fantasticly smooth running engine compared to a 4 cylinder. It can be analysis paralysis though; I suspect if you buy the 250GT, you'll be yearning for more power of the 300GT.

Hi, I went through this process when buying my V35. I ended up getting the 300GT. On paper, I considered the 250GT under powered for a car that I wouldn't consider light in weight although my previous car was an MR2. The 300GT was 260HP, just 12-20HP less than the 350GT depending on the model and has a good trade off with fuel economy compared with the 3.5 litre (rated 8.6l/100kms vs 11.6l/100kms) Not sure why the 3.0 litre Direct Injection engine had a relatively short lifespan. I don't think it was reliability issues as most of the japanese manufacturers have dropped the 3.0 litre engine from their range. I found the 250GT and 300GT are softly sprung compared to the 350GT. I would suggest getting a second hand set of springs and sway bars from a 350Gt to make it handle better. The other consideration is the Direct Injection has a tendency to clog the intake with a tar light substance from the crankcase gases and will periodically need cleaning. This is based on the Series 1 so Series 2 maybe different.

I have found this on G35driver.com Group A 03-04 350Z all trim levels (car's without the revised suspension ONLY) 03-06 G35 coupe (all USDM production with oem 17 and 18" wheels) 03-04 G35 sedan (sport and non sport suspension's All group A car's have the following oem sway bar specs 34mm front 21mm rear hollow wall construction 5mm in thickness (courtesy of tomsn16) Torsional rigidity Front: 1130lbs Rear:385 (courtesy BJ EVO350) Group B 04.5-06 350Z all trim levels (car's with the revised suspension) 05-06 G35 coupe (all USDM production with oem 19" wheels) 04-06 G35 sedan (sport and non sport suspensions) 34mm front 21mm rear hollow wall construction 7mm front (courtesy tomsn16) 5mm rear net change in front bar strength from 2mm increase in wall thickness +17% (courtesy of tomsn16) If the models correspond to the V35 then all 350GT should have the same Sway bar regardless of sports suspension or not. I would think the 300GT and 250GT are the exception as I consider its handling is average whereas the G35 gets good reviews on its handling. I just need the part number of the sway bar from a 350GT to confirm.

As I understand it, the V35 with a sports package comes with heavier springs and dampers and are also fitted with stiffer sway bars. The springs can be identified by the paint dots and the dampers are red in colour. What I would like to know is how you identify the sway bars are the stiffer sports version and peoples impression of them. I have a 300GT and I have the sports springs and dampers but want to look at the sways to improve the open road handling. Cheers