R33shaun

Its windy as f*ck here atm, I think where I am is one of the only suburbs in townsville that still has power, so i got pretty lucky.

Im lucky my garage door is on the opposite side to where the wind is coming from, but the street lights are moving a fair bit and a tree just down the road looks like its struggling to hang on.

mines flickering hopefully it stays on though, no aircon and no tv makes me go something something....

Its getting windier here now, just pulled off my outside ceiling fan cos it was getting a fair wobble! Power is still on here to but i reckon it'll go off just as i start cooking dinner!

Its just starting to get breazy here (kirwan townsville). Not hugely worried though i've got plenty of beer and a salami and the car is safely in the carport. Looking at the tracking map even Mt Isa is going to get some! thats one f*ck off big storm to get that far!

Shouldnt be, if your worried about it just pin it out with a multimeter after replacing it. Should be less than 1 Ohm

Thats an engine earth, its just braided cable. You should be able to pick up a new one from any electrical store (ie jaycar, blackwoods possibly). I'd replace it if its knackered though because earthing problems can cause some fairly weird dramas. I seen a deisel rover melt the plastic cover clean off a clutch cable (dripped onto the floor) because the gearbox earth wasnt attatched. Kinda lucky it didnt wreck to much else cos it was drawing a fcuk load of amps from the battery.

Righto, think ive managed to fix it, I changed my plugs today with bcrp6's gapped to 7.5mm, cleaned out my AFM (wasnt dirty but blasted it with contact cleaner anyway). Also replaced all my vacuum lines and replaced the rubber joiner between the throttle body and intake pipe (was a bit worn but no split or cracked). I let it cool right down then took it for a drive, i think ive somehow deleted the consult software from my laptop and cant seem to find the disk so i used scantech again. First one is straight up after i let it idle for about 5 min, running wastegate boost (gets up to 10PSI???) car cold.zip Second run after it was warm i set it to low boost on my controller ( starts at 8PSI and builds to 10.3PSI at about 3500rpm and holds till 7000) boost.zip Third one is when i set it to High boost (11.7PSI comes on hard). It maxed out the AFM and coughed so i set it back to low boost. You can see the AFM hit 5V just before the revs drop off about 150 frames in when it gets to 5000RPM. boosthigh.zip It was running fine on low boost after that for about 40min driving fairly hard then the turbo started to surge in second gear at about 3/4 throttle and make a fairly loud whine/turbo spool hiss and also a bit in 3rd but not as bad. No idea what caused it to do that but. It also felt a bit sluggish considering it was on 10PSI, not sure if its overfuelling or not running enough timing? Changing the plugs also seems to have fixed my temp issue, even after hiding it for a while it still only got to around 85 deg. Also the IAC seems to have settled down. Cheers for the help and any ideas on the surging/ sluggishness would be great. Thanks, shaun

+1 for option1garage. I got 595's of them cheap as delivered to my house in a couple of days.

Thanks man ill have a go at that tommorrow arvo, Ill also try to get a better log of it using ecutalk when its playing up. I still havent had a chance to do the plugs or vacuum lines yet either (been raining up this way a bit). Ill clear the junk out the garage tommorrow and stop procrastinating. Its running the stock R33 AFM (pink label). It mostly hunts on idle and chugs black smoke for a few minutes but once it warms up a bit it settles down. It also intermittant some days i have no dramas at all. The coughing happens randomly when im driving along and give it a bit of stick. It'll either cough at around 4 grand (cough as in die completely for a half second), sputter and feel really sluggish or pull through to 7 grand (still has a bit of a flat spot between 4-5grand but pulls through it). Coils are brand new, plugs <3000Km old as well but im changing them again anyway Cheers for the help

car bad start.zip Thats a log from when its cold and running sh*tty, hopefully it worked, it should open with the OBD scan tech software. I have version 1.29 if that makes any difference. Anything stand out to anyone cos im stumped.. Cheers shaun

Any one know how to upload consult data? i cant seem to get it to work. I think i know why its coughing so much when its cold. It seems that the airflow meter maxes out (5V) on WOT when its not completely warmed up or if the outside air temp is a bit cooler. When its warm it peaks at around 4.7V. Im guessing when the AFM maxes out the ECU cuts ignition or goes into limp mode, which would also explain why it does it when i raise the boost using my Greddy Profec as it spools up alot quicker (even only a small increase in boost causes it to cough badly). I might try lowering the gain on the boost controller so it comes on a bit slower and set it for 9PSI and see if it makes any difference. Looks as though ultimately im going to have to wait until i change the ECU before i can wind up the boost ( I only want to set it to 12PSI) Cheers shaun

cheers, thats one less thing to look at. It started coughing and playing up again tonight but the air temp here atm is a lot cooler than it was today so im thinking maybe a dry joint in my AFM. Ill pull that off and check it tomorrow as well.

You would run the normal inputs ie when parkers are on the LEDS are white and when the indicator is turned on the LEDS change to orange and will flash because youll still be using the original indicator cct. (use both inputs as per a normal setup) There is two types of BI colour LEDs, 3 pin types which are just basically two LEDs built into the same discreet package or voltage depended ones which change colour depending on input voltage. Depending on what type you can get in a White/orange combination will determine what kind off cct youll need to drive them properly and youll need to set them up in such a way so that they dont load down the flasher can and make them flash fast. Ill give jaycar or RS a ring on monday and see what they have available. Ill also have a go at designing a cct to drive them but you might be better off getting hold of an electronics engineer (might be one on here somewhere?) theyll be able to knock something up no worries. (Im only a techy not an engineer) cheers shaun

Its using the 25 temp sensor and I replaced the fan because it was shagged, im fairly sure that the ecu was remapped at some stage but i have no idea what was done. Ill replace the thermistat tommorrow and flush it all out again and see if that drops the temp at all, the radiator was only replaced a couple of years ago so it should be fine but ill clean it out and check it over anyway and the radiator cap is also new. According to the manual the R33's have a cat temp sensor/exhaust temp sensor to bring up a warning when the cat dies. Not sure what its meant to sit at though or if its just an on/off kind of thing. Its running the stock 25 injectors, which are on my list to replace when i do the ECU as they were nearly maxed out when it was tuned with my old e-manage for 10PSI. Also just to annoy me some more its been all good for the last two days so i cant get a log of when its running crap.

yeah for the moment, getting a new ECU when the shops open back up in a few weeks. I was going to get a link but now im thinking Power FC D Jetro. I think the stock AFM is maxing out when i wind the boost up which is why it coughs on 10psi but that doesn't explain the stuttering and coughing when its cold. It was running fine for 2+ years with the stock ECU its only been the last few months i've had problems. Im really just after a Consult Data log to compare to my readings so i can see if there is any obvious fault. cheers shaun

Ill be in for a set of series 1 lights. And an idea for the parker/indicator problem, why not run dual colour LEDs not much dearer and it wouldnt take much to design a cct that takes both inputs and changes the voltage to run the LEDs. If people are interested i can have a go at designing a cct to do it and price it up.

It also has a new O2 sensor (replaced 500km ago) and got new plugs and a heap of vacuum line today so i can replace all the vacuum lines tommorrow. Drove it this arvo and had no problems at all, started fine warmed up for about 5 min while i was getting the Consult software to connect then drove no worries. The temp is also sitting at 102 degrees? but it was a hot one today (around 35 deg). It has an magna thermo bolted to the radiator which runs off the ignition rather than the crappy viscous crank driven one. I really hate intermittant faults, any one have any ideas?

Pretty much as the topic states, im having a few dramas with my R33 GTST s2. Atm it coughs and splutters and has zero power for a while when its cold, itll hunt and just plain piss me off and play games but once it warms up its generally fine. In the last few days its been getting worse and worse and is now starting to not come good and do the same when warm. Looking at the consult data everything is fine and working normal except the A/F alpha reading sits on 100% all the time and the A/F alpha self learn is at about 97%. also the exhaust gas temp sensor is 5V all the time. Im not sure what the normal ranges are so any help would be greatly appreciated. Car has a stock ECU (speed limiter removed) stock turbo, FMIC, stock BOV, running stock boost atm because if i raise it even a little it coughs really badly. Also has RB30 botton end with a RB25 head, coils are brand new splitfires, new Airflow meter, cleaned IAC and throttle body. Im also just about to get new plugs and see if that helps. If someone could post up a consult log or give me some ideas of normal readings that would be great, also any other ideas would be more than welcome. Ill post up a consult log when i get a chance. Cheers shaun

Also got splitfires not too long ago, no dramas at all. If your after some cheap replacements ive still got my stock set, nothing wrong with them. I changed them thinking mine were stuffed but it was my ECU.

If you running the stock ecu or a piggy back you could use a real basic computer setup and use the ECUtalk software and cable. it has a whole stack of available software with different displays. A few are vey close to your pic. Thatd be the easiest way i can think off.

can of electro-clean (jaycar or blackwoods sell it) and a razor type paint scraper will get just about anything off, just be careful not to dig the scraper into the paint.

Gday mate Have you got the centre dash bit that surrounds the ash tray and goes to the top of the shifter. Also would you be willing to post it? Cheers, shaun

definate fail, doesnt look right at all!