frogstarc

Pm sent.

Fit a gts?

Update: I replaced the dropping resistor yesterday with a used one, but it still behaves the same.

Thanks very much, ill have a squiz tomorrow.

Ugh, thats why I'm reluctant to embark on anything too drastic just yet.

The sump was clean, a few filings on the magnet, but not an unusual amount for 150,000k. The filter had a few white metal flakes in one corner. Yea the idea of something sticking or being slightly blocked seems to make sense, since it goes away when its warm. But because it works fine for the first kilometer when fully cold, and then starts to misbehave makes me question that reasoning. Perhaps a seal that functions when the fluid is cold and slightly more viscous, then fails when the fluid thins, and then starts to work again when the seal itself gets warm or, the fluid gets to temp?

Hi all. About 6 months ago i joined the skyline family, and I'm loving it, however my auto trans has started behaving a bit weird of late. I had it serviced a couple of weeks ago to see if that helped, or perhaps get a better idea of whats causing it, but it was inconclusive. So I thought I would post my symptoms here and hope someone with experience in re4r01a transmissions might be able to shed some light on the issue. Basically this is how it behaves I start it cold, and it drives normally for the first kilometer, then it will slip out of 4th (OD) and stay in 3rd. The torque converter will then refuse to lock. If I now stop, and start from first, the shift to second is hard like a shift kit, and it will then hold second until I either engage the snow function, or rev up and back off. Now if I drive around for about 10 mins it will begin trying to lock the torque converter when I go above 70k, only a little at first, but locking and unlocking more and more as the temp rises. After about 15 mins it has warmed up and the torque converter behaves normally and it will now shift into 4th (OD) again, and will operate flawlessly until it is left to cool down. I have run the ecu and trans diagnostics in my garage, and at the trans shop, with a clean outcome on every occasion, and this made the guy at the shop convinced it was a mechanical issue, or possibly the "dropping relay/resistor" which we were unable to locate on my r33. It does feel like the torque converter is at fault, but I'm concerned there may be more to it, or that its possibly related to the ageing battery in my alarm/immobilizer. If anyone has had similar issues and were able to resolve it, I'd love to hear about it. Cheers, Josh.

Hey hey, I just moved back to the coast after many years away and I'm looking for a "duck" or "stealth" wing for my R33. If anyone has one laying around send me a pm. Cheers.

vaguely remember reading that someone had installed a rubber boot/dust cover incorrectly (backwards?) at the bottom of the shifter and had a similar prob.

the dash light dimmer switch that was installed on mine sits just under the head unit. if either of the wires were disconnected it would probably cause problems similar to yours. might be worth checking it wasn't disconnected or hijacked during the install.

My current set up has the negative terminal only about 1 cm from the rear speaker. I'm no expert but that strikes me as a little too close, and makes disconnecting the battery a pain. I'm wondering whether I should get a sealed (dry cell?) battery so I can lay it on its side and be done with it, or just look for a shorter wet cell version. Suggestions welcome.

I saw that post too, it looked like the best result. Just wet sand with super fine paper - wash - dry - tape - and spray. No need for buffing, but it would be wise to make sure its a UV resistant plastic primer before applying.

Yea the auto's have the gear indicator lights up the middle between the speedo and tacho, but the manuals look the same just with those lights blacked out. Things like the airbag light would be something to look out for, since some series 1's don't have one.

yea its a bit weird, battery can be disconnected, but ignition needs to be on, or at least that worked for me.

Still looking if anyone has one laying around.

Mmm, I think a call to Nissan with your vin and model number could be worth while. If it is the auto ecu, what if the new one doesn't fit your wiring harness? converting to the re4r01a trans might be more trouble than it's worth, or maybe it's a piece of cake and just a matter of plugging the new one in. Either way it would be nice to know what to expect before embarking on more work.

I'm no expert, but yes, I've heard the auto's have their own ecu, not sure where it is though. If it didn't get changed with the box, that might be your first port of call.

Possibly a very early series 1 that still used the old transmission, and had an ecu mapped for it? I don't have anything concrete to base that on other than a vague memory of reading something about very early S1's differing from their slightly younger cousins. You could borrow/buy an ecu from a series one that u know had the re4r01a transmission from factory and try that. Maybe its possible to remap yours to suit, prolly a question for your Nissan workshop if you draw a blank here.

Mine does that too, but only when it's in dash vents only mode. Try pressing the mode button to change the vent configuration (mine stops when I have dash and footwell vents open), wait for it to stop clicking, then stop the car and restart to see if it stops.

Hi there I'm looking for a stock s/wheel for a S1 R33, thats the leather, non airbag version. Like the one in the second picture of this post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/S1...60#entry5486260 price will reflect condition. I do not need it for RWC or defect notice, so will be shopping around. PM me for mobile number or email address to forward photos to. Cheers, Yosh.

installed and working like a charm

Item arrived well packaged and in good condition. Yet to be installed.

or use the switch on the light in the roof near rearview mirror (drivers side light)

1. your car is (or the dashboard in your car came from) the model with the adjustable spoiler. If it does nothing you have either had the spoiler or dash replaced. (sure its not the old power aerial switch?) 2. the power/snow switch on your a/t does 2 things. snow = skipping first gear and going straight to 2nd so you don't wheel spin in the snow or wet (also changes to 3rd and 4th at lower revs). power = lets the engine rev higher before changing to the next gear. if the switch is left in the middle (between snow and power) it will behave like a normal a/t, and automatically switch to power mode if you put your foot down (the switch itself doesn't move, but the power mode is activated in the ecu).

Tyvm for the info.