Pft shh 89

Aaah ok that explains it. The other thing that's wierd is that mine currently have two plugs as well, but I don't have the heated mirror option it's just odd. I originally got an S1 mirror to replace the first one that was kicked off but it was a different colour, tried to change out the internals as the broken piece is where it rotates in from. Obviously didnt work, now the missus had an accident and the drivers side glass popped out but all the casing is fine. She won't drive without either wing mirror so currently borrowing mums Camry for the moment. Hoping to get it fixed soon so we can give mum her car back....

Hi All have looked through the thread but found nothing recent. I'm chasing both wing mirrors for my 1999 Stagea, must be C34 series 2, the series 1 have slightly different internals & mounting. I'm after pearl white for the passenger side, driver's side colour is not as crucial as i only really need the glass, but I would prefer to buy as a set. Is anybody currently wrecking?? Thanks, Jeremy

it is a fairly low car, not ridiculous but i imagine it is another contributing factor, hard for me to measure arch to center as i have no flat surface to park it (lives on the road, single garage is used as storage due to small unit, all complex driveways are cambered to the centre to allow for drainage).

Currently sitting at 2.0 neg with full out on the bushes which is wearing out tyres way to quickly. I think there may be other issues at play as well (suspected accident before I got it) but camber is definately contributing to the problem and is (I thought) the easisest to correct. As i say my issue with the cusco's is the apparent lack of adjustability, unless I am missing something about the way they work. I am definately NOT a suspension wizz haha If i got the cusco's can i use the current whiteline bushes to do the fine tuning after getting it roughly right with the arm? AFAIK though I don't get 5mm adjustment out of the bush so there would still be a 'dead spot' where i can't get the camber to sit.

So basically i have read through the suspension thread and found out that I need r33/34 upper camber arms for the front. My question is which style should i be opting for? -a. The one piece design (like factory and cusco) which to me doesn't seem to give much flexibility in the adjustment (5mm increments) or -b. The two piece design with one straight arm and one curved arm that appear to have infinite increments of adjustment (by screwing in or out as needed) Though i have read the curved one can be a pain to adjust, though no specific reason was given as to why. Also background info. 1999 c34 rs4 converted to manual. currently running whiteline eccentric/concentric? bushes which haven't given me enough correction to fix the camber issue i have. was hoping to use hardrace brand arms throughout the car (already have them in the rear) but as yet they don't make a kit for r33/34/stagea and i'm sick of shelling out for new tyres so not waiting for them to finish developing them. After doing some searching around i have been left with the above conundrum. Any thoughts??

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page12.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p388427893&thumb=http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/f29batchimg.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/4/6/1/9/powergroup1220-thumb-1391772076740108.jpg&title=DAYS%20WGNC34 Front Dayz bar with the carbon fibre. Some scuff marks though...

Any chance i could grab the concentric bolt and nut from the drivers rear toe arm, I know it's specific, will buy whole arm if you would prefer.

sorry should have been a bit more specific yes its the nut that is stripped, not the bolt. They tried the correct size socket on a breaker bar with another piece of pole to give more leveredge, wouldn't budge started to strip. Sprayed with WD40 and waited 20mins. They tried bashing a smaller socket on, same deal and still continued to strip. Then they tried some multigrip style things that as they turn/ have pressure applied the tighter they grip again with another pole on the handle for extra leveredge and it just started tearing the nut apart. We can't get the nut to crack so looking like we shall have to cut through the lot then find a replacement bolt and nut.

Hi all, trying to get my wheel alignment sorted, and have found that the drivers rear toe arm bolt has been done up waaaaaayyyyyy to tight and won't come off. It is pretty much round now after them trying to use all kinds of gripping tools to try and get it to shift and it's just tearing it apart. Looking like it will have to be cut out and replaced. The question being could anyone assist with sourcing one, ie send me one off a wreck, give me a genuine nissan part number, anything at all? Just to be clear I am talking about the eccentric/concentric (what ever it is) one on the car end of the arm.

Got and fitted some new Thule roof bars today, courtesy of my Dad as birthday present for this saturday

if they're anything like mine prepare to be washing your rims every week. I have found the Remsa's to produce a hell of a lot of dust..

fitted some Hardrace adjustable camber arms so that i have enough adjustment to stand my wheels up and get some decent wear out of a set of tyres, just need to get a proper alignment done now, and to see if i need to invest in the adjustable toe arms as well.

oh if only i could afford to have a dedicated track car.........and a decent track to race on

Finished up my project for this weekend