4bidn1

Yes have a rear bar up for grabs ill sus out which type , Do you mean the front guard indicator

Pm sent re plenum

Looking like a real good start there gho5t

I would hate to weigh my old girl in , leather full electrics twin sunroof stereo equip lol , oh well after this next round of mods ill chuck her down the track again in full street trim "drive it there drive it back" see what damage I can do But rips stagea is an absolute weapon I love it ! When you running yours kiwi

In the write up I saw all electrics where removed o thought as was interior except for dash so stripped ill . Full weight means full interior everything as the car is on the street even street wheels " at least street drag radials " full exhuast, so a regularly street driven car

Ummm as mike and I have said it really depends on what ya call fitment . Not into that much stretch on the tyres and I would be very paranoid about the boys in blue

Some one buy my 34 gtr bar and conversion fenders and I can get this as a spare lol

Still can't work out how your rears fit ????? Looks good , shoot us a close up pic of how much the rears stick out , what camber you running

Rb26, 2630, 25 25/30 goodies list mods Etc, and what 60ft Lol at 35 psi I was like what the f**k running wmi or something

So what set up ??

And I was saying rips cars is not a streeter not yours

35psi ooooooo what set up

Here is my set up , apexi oil temp , water temp, oil pressure, boost , and air fuel ratio in side air vent ,greedy boost controller in coin tray

"Street driven" stag not stripped out drag car

11.7 you would need about upper 300kw to do that ?? What's the record for a street driven stag ? 11.3 I think ?

Ahh I see the g4 is a stand alone mother board ! But there must be some tweaking for the air con ect be interesting to see or talk to some one who actually did it , from a quick read I see they have had some probs in 34gtrs with the air con being a hot feed and draining the battery on them . Fairly expensive unit,

So really a link g4 is an internal piggy back system mating in with the original mother board, much like using a emanage and piggy backing it on the out side ! ? ! Which does not help this blokes question . Like I said I run a neo comp in my s1 yes it has a neo in it so engine wise was not a problem but I had to alter my loom as the some of the body loom runs through the Ecu I.E . Air con and abs the abs on the a s1 and s2 are diffrent units using diff pin outs and diff sig voltages. And air con as well .

Standard turbo off neo rb 25 excellent condition $400 Wrecking complete rs4s so many other parts will be listed . You need anything pm me you never know your luck Cheers jase

Bump

Bit of a surprise when I saw the add for the next S.A. Street meet coming up, maybe some incentive for me to put new rear sub frame and diff in and run some times

I run a 34 nistune comp in a s1 manual conversion but with a neo engine , the problem you will run into is that the air con and abs also run through the s1 comp.

Sold to me cheers mate. Nice 32

You have a pm

Hicas lock out bar

Sub frame are the same yes but what jet r31 is commenting on is the axles, s1 auto and s2 auto stages have relatively week axles given the weight of the car so if you start making decent power through them with hard launches and shifts they will snap. an auto will cushion them a bit but they will go as will s14 axles ect . So if you where to do this conversion for a serious mod not just the fact of fitting big wheels under it would pay to use a rs260 or rs4s rear sub and diff axle set up and gain much stronger/thicker 6bolt 33gtr axles that run in those cars , and as RS2000 is all ready running in the high 200kw range sure he will need it one day , And as jetr31 and mike have said I can not possibly see how 10.5 inch rims with that offset are not fowling rear coils , and make sure ya spring rate is not hard, when I had my 20s on the ride was bone breaking