Plan-FAILURE

Well.. Engine & Turbo Rebuilt RB20DET (metal gaskets, machined crank, honed rods, new pistons) HKS Turbo (model has slipped my mind as was done before I bought car) Sard 550cc injectors Splitfire Coils Z32 AFM Nismo Fuel Pressure Reg Nismo Fuel Pump FMIC Greddy Dump Pipe 3" Turbo-back Exhaust with 4 1/2 inch performance cat (3 inch inlet/outlet) HD Clutch GReddy short shift GReddy Profec B II EBC Apexi turbo timer Stock gearbox Stock LSD Nistune Suspension Stock Fronts fine Rears are shot May have left one or two things off but thats about it

LOL popped my newb cherry all over again.

OP?

Farout that could have been bad....

Thanks bro. Your time and consideration is much appreciated. We'll see what the shootout/tune holds in store tomorrow!

Oh...is this in your R31?

Ok. How is this RETARDED? Optimising power delivery and torque through boost/ecu settings seems to be a fairly sensible option. Would you care to ellaborate? Or were you just shooting your mouth off because others have come out with same shit responses?

Ok I'll just say that my wheelspin comes on at 5700 - 6000 rpm (just before I change gear) My initial concern was that it was abnormal not to be able to pull all the way to redline but if I'm reaching max power sooner this isn't bad? Its actually better? Yeah? I will say I'm being quite picky as the car is wicked to drive with or without that top end traction...

Would screwed stock coilys on the back promote wheelspin or improve bog in? Buddy Club BRs are on there way yeww!

Yeah! There we go! Someone that knows what I'm chasing and doesn't make a smart ass remark. Can my Greddy Profec B II do this? Props for finally addressing the tuning side of the equation

Thanks heaps for all the info bro. But... I HAVE BRAND NEW BRIDGESTONE TURANZAS 235/50/R16 FRONT AND REAR. Old tyres were some chinese wholesale crap. Correct I'm on full boost at approx 4200-4300rpm I guess my main concern was that my car should be able to get to redline before it started spinning but I believe now I'm wrong? The car drives wicked but not being able traction to redline concerned me. Guess it is my furst turbo haha. Sounds like I need to get my modulation on

Ok... Granted I have stock suspension and the rears I've been told are shot. Waiting on my BCs to come through... I'm sorry if I said something stupid but having boost peaking later would mean I get to redline before or at the same time as wheels start spinning, no? I know you can't tune the wheelspin out but changing the boost settings to have the power put down differently is possible, no? There is a gain setting on my EBC for a reason, no?

No its a shit take...what you reckon?

Don't get too excited with the "blowing off V8s" quote - it was merely to illustrate the situation and this situation with the V8 was a rolling drag so high end is more important than low end as the power pand on rb20s go all the way to 7500...no?

Ok well yeah that's why I mentioned adjusting the EBC (gain etc) or tuning because I think my power is coming on later than what it should and peaking quicker??? I'm talking DRY ROADS as well. My rear camber is pretty negative. As in bottom of rear tyres further out than top of the tyre...

Bridestone Turanzas are shit? Don't think so. They were upper mid range last time I checked. I spin 1st and 2nd, chirp 3rd and 4th holds. My clutch aint slippin LOL The reason I mentioned adjusting EBC (gain etc) or tuning is because I'm hitting max boost too soon and I'll spin way before redline hence not getting maximum power which sucks when you want to blow off that V8. I had tyres with probably 30% tread front and rear before and lets just say I felt like I was driving on ice. James

Ok dude I have exactly the same set up as you minus the cams and cam gear and I make 230 rwkw on my rb20det. The RB is very reluctant to release torque before 3000rpm. Remember... 1) It's a turbo and turbos are designed to make power when they are on boost - NOT ON VACCUM. My boost starts to come on at about 3300 rpm and this is when the car starts to become torquey and fun. 2) Its a tiny displacement 6cyl turbo with less combustion to push more cylinders than any other nissan inline turbo. With this said however there are a couple of things you can do to combat the lag (apart from getting a tune which I would recommend first as mine is not very laggy even down low) 1) Regap plugs to 0.8mm 2) Buy a performance flywheel 3) Get a proper, sealed and insulated cold air intake...any exposed pods in the engine bay will be sacrificing horses due to heat. 4) Practice launching the car as you get next to no lag off a good launch and this can be a drag launch or an every day town launch 5) Swap in an rb25det (which i personally could never bring myself to do as the rb20 is the sweetest sounding engine in the world) James

Title says it all. My R32 GTS-T is making just over 230 rwkw at 16 psi and it is simply impossible to get it over 5700rpm without loosing traction. I would really like to redline the car just once or twice... Would adjusting the EBC be able to get me to redline with traction? Or would a tune be more the way to go? Or am I just going to have to accept that my car is too powerful for traction? Any thoughts would be great. Can't get accurate results using the search function, my apologies. James

Thanks heaps mate! Did some searches and wasn't getting any results - probably due to me not knowing the terminology. My battery is not currently clamped down so I might start there and get it clamped down first as this may be compromising the battery to chassis earth.

Hey guys, Basically when I'm not playing beats I will get a low volume, high pitch whine through my speakers and the pitch will change dependent on engine rpm. Higher rpm = higher pitch Lower rpm = lower pitch Not really too bothered bout this one but would be interested to find out why it happens.

Ok guys I've done a bit of searching around and haven't really been able to find anything that relates directly to my situation. My R32 GTS-T puts out about 230 kW on 16 psi and is running the following mods (just nudging stage 3) Full RB20DET rebuild with upgraded rods and bearings FMIC Full turbo back exhaust with performance cat Greddy Dump Pipe z32 AFM Cold air intake Splitfire coilpacks 550cc injectors Nistune Chip (on stock ecu) Upgraded HKS turbo (not sure of model) Nismo fuel pump Exedy Super HD Clutch Question is...WOULD I BENEFIT FROM A SET OF CAM GEARS (AND TUNE)? I'm very happy with my car at the moment and wouldn't want to lose something to gain something else. Only really interested if it will all be positive after install. Cheers guys

Yeah cool man. I will be putting these on ready for XMAS!

Sounds as if you have more than one problem if it takes ages to start after it dies. I'd be checking your battery first as I had the same problem (minus the hard start) with my 32 and it ended up being the battery which was f**ked. If you load the battery up and its fine it will be either your AFM, ignitor, fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump.

Hey people, I own a '93 r32 skyline gts-t and just need a couple of parts to complete my project. List is below... - GTS-T or GTR front grill (GTR is preferred but I'm not sure if this will bolt straight up or not) - GTR front bumper lip - GTR rear pods (mud flap things) Any help would be great!

Cheers mate! Was going to mention BCs. They're on ebay as well...