Plan-FAILURE

LOL yeah was basically asking him to prove to himself that paying for 112 extra kw is not cheap!

Hey guys, I've just redone the shitty flooring in the R32s boot with MDF and some quality black carpet. Doesn't really look that great though because I'm missing the trimming that covers the rear wheel arches. Go crazy. James

How much did you spend on your car bro?

+1 I was going to write practically the same thing. If you have a good nick, practically stock S2 33, you will be able to sell it for close on the same price as one with a lot of the fruit done already. We all have the desire to "do it all" ourselves but at the end of the day its not always worth it. I bought my R32 GTS-T with a lot of fruit but still with room to make it "your own". If you get one that is mostly stock cosmetically you can always throw money at the cosmetics instead. This way you've got the fun of driving a powerful version of the car you like while making it suit your style. Cosmetics are dope if you have the power to go with it.

So yeah...I have the R32 type m wheel (tri spoke, slightly dished/drift spec'd) but its seen better days. Is the R32 GTR wheel the same or different/better? Andddd if so, will it fit up to the gts-t column? James

But I wasn't saying anything about bcozicans build being cheaper dude. I was just trying to offer some insight into why he may have chosen the path he did.

Very true mate. But a stroked out rb20det is pretty much on par with an rb25det and because of his situation he's ended up with a fresh engine VS an old 25det. If he had connections it may have been the better option. I think we've deliberated this one enough though lol.

Cheers bro, good info. I've noticed that if I'm driving in a quiet area without the and I pass islands with thick shrubs or if I'm driving down the freeway next to concrete walls I will hear a faint clicking/ticking sound that appears to be coming from one of the front wheels. It's not a sticky caliper piston or anything of that nature and its a far more subtle sound which is only heard if its amplified by a barrier/shrub/line of trees etc. I'm wondering if this is the first sign that a wheel bearing is on its way out? James

+1

Your just talking financially and time wise tho bro. Sentimental or situational reasons are a whole other kettle of fish. I know why bcozican did what he did and he's got a rare little powerplant because of it. Not all about money and time ay. If it was, our car shows/comps would be shit. James

The driveshaft in GTS-Ts have been known to wear over time, especially with highly modified gts-ts The most common problem is tailshaft backlash which can come in the form of noise/vibration from the rear in a different degrees. When I had my recent service, my mechanic said that I have a bit of tailshaft backlash present - still can't pick it myself but its there none the less. With this wear starting to happen with mine, and me only only making 235rwkw, I'd say it would be a good idea to upgrade the diff if your making 300rwkw + GTR diff will be bullet proof. Get a recon'd second hand one and you'll be laughing. James

ZORG...i love it

I will have funds to buy on 16th February. I will pay $1200 if it includes postage. Will you hold it for me? I've already got the Z32 afm btw. Cheers James

Ohhhk I'm going to take back my last comment with regard to Haltech Platinum Pros. This what my tuner (XSpeed) said about the Haltech Platinum Pro... "Just don't." I said "please explain" and he said.... It's a universal ecu that isn't tailored for any particular car with all sorts of tuning issues (cost the last guy $1700 in labour alone to get it working 80% of the time lol) He went on to say that the measuring parameters of the Hally are far too wide to tune one specific street car effectively and would only really be superior if it was for a dedicated track car where normal reliability issues mean jack shit. He said they've tuned every ecu under the sun and the Haltech PP has returned reliability issues with cold starting, idling, hot starting and O2 sensor issues basically all the stuff you need to work 100% for a daily drive. He seemed to think the AP Engineering Apexi PowerFC for the RB20DET was the beez neez. Easy to tune, designed to work with the rb20det specifically, excellent reliability. James

I think I'm gonna go Haltech Platinum Pro...aussie made...aussie tough...newer...more advanced etc etc

I don't believe so man. I'm running the stock type m rims.... James

That sucks. cheers man. James

As title says I need an AP Engineering PowerFC designed for the R32 GTS-T RB20DET.

Hey man, Just reading over all the FAQ and so forth. It says that the AP Engineering Power FC is not sold new anymore and I have an R32 GTS-T... Is secondhand the only option for me? James

If its stock you'll have a viscous fan that works by oil expanding in the oil galleries of the clutch which will turn the fan on and off. Piss the shitty viscous, belt driven, power robbing SOB off and go electric on a thermostat bro. James

LOL dude I've never run octane booster in my rb20det. Its only done 8000kms on my new build and runs like a dream. And I've never used it to stop pinging/detonation also. Purely asking as higher octane = more HP I should have probably said Octane Boosters with 98 Octane PULP or E85....

Yeah no shit aha. RB26DETT in my gts-t would be phat. I'd hold onto my RWD though...

But its a stroker....ooooooooo Bragging rights yo

Do you use octane boosters and what do you think of them? James

ipaq? I like the LCD Display very much and will be ordering one soon...