Plan-FAILURE

i thought extremely small penis was preferable?

Hi guys, Very keen to get my car drifting but don't really know a lot about what you need to remove/fit/upgrade to get it setup. Just looking for a list of the stuff I'll need to do to get the gts-t drift ready... James

Afternoon Perthians, A little bit belated I know but I signed up late last year after the purchase of my first Skyline. Bought her in Sydney and drove her back to Perth =) Name: Jimmy Age: 21 I drive a: 1993 Gun Metal 2 Door R32 GTS-T I work as: HR Officer Cruise/event attendance rate: Zero but planning to change this Music taste: Hip Hop Hobbies: Chill sessions, Imports, XBOX/PS3, HBO produced TV series, crime docos Might be of use contacting me for: Employment advice/help, if your a nice lady seeking a nice man Look forward to getting to know some of you guys =)

Yeah it probably works out worse for brits. Unruckyy

They get better salaries though...

Yeah straight out I've been reading all the posts and to be honest I think sometimes Caltex Vortex 98 could even be better than BP Ultimate - but this could be due to fuel density or some other variable that has nothing to do with octane rating. Caltex Vortex 98 is always cheaper as well but I am a born and bread BP fan especially after reading the big post a couple up haha

Yeah tis ay. I might just go the davies craig route using the current shroud...

Ok... When its fully engaged the guage reads a bit under 2/3, when its not fully engaged it reads a tad over half - in other words it seems to be spot on. I think you're right with the "car getting up to temp and then never getting below the temp in which the clutch fan engages". I will have a look to see whether it is still rubbing on the IC piping but it is fastened by a piece of stainless, tig welded to the ic piping and bolted into the head (looks quite original and cool). When the fan is fully engaged I drive conservatively and dont boost up that much, it is considerably less responsive and if I was to raise the revs the fan would spin all the way to 7000rpm. Is it possible that the cooling capability of a fan with all its vains shaved down a bit would be less than one in new condition? And consequently this change in cooling capability is causing the engine to not drop that extra couple of degrees to disengage the fan? We're getting there ay lol

Appreciate your thought mate... My fan's behaviour is irratic to say the least. I guess the main things it does are... 1) Drive to work in the morning - I don't really hear it present which is consistant with the cooler morning temps so I know I don't have an overheating issue and throttle response is excellent, supporting the fact the fan isn't engaged fully. 2) Drive home from work - the fan will be spinning most of the time with it roaring its shit off all the way through the rev range, really annoying as you loose bulk power. It seams as if once it kicks in, it stays kicked in...like its half broken or something. The clutch will engage the fan but wont disengage it once it is "fully engaged". I've also noticed that before i had my IC piping fastened to the engine with a metal bracket, the fan had been rubbing on the IC piping and has shaved a bit of plastic of every vain. Could this friction have caused the clutch to wear?

That is an interesting boost line you have there mate... Where are the rpms on the graph? And I've never seen a dyno graph with kmp/h on the bottom before lol

I'm just hating on my warn bar being displayed. I was a bit rude to a forum member but it was tit for tat and seems unfair. if I can't do anything about the warn bar, I'll just leave it...

Idle and missfire problems are always the most fidly to diagnose as there are so many things that could be causing the problem. I'd be going to a mechanic as well bro.

That yellow circle in front of the black box looks uncannily like the idle control setter on the stock ecu - could be a sticker tho. I think perhaps the switch has just been mounted on the metal box but is linked to something else as I have a similar metal box on my 32, in the same spot, but it doesn't have the black box with green switch...

Could be... Cold start valve TPS (throttle position sensor) CPS (cam position sensor) Engine Timing

Hey i'd like to delete my current account and make another. Is this the right spot?

Is it under the parcel shelf between your rear speakers?

Awesome info man cheers. I think that's the key, read the manual until it all makes sense although I will be getting my tuner to set it up initially. Its funny how much of a misconception I had with regard to my EBC. I thought I could simply set everything up with PSI being the unit of measurement in every screen and literally dial up the boost I wanted to hit without having to worry about gain and percentage values. I can see how this unit is highly effective however =)

<br /><br /><br />Yeah haha its a gt2871r so it was more engine internals I was worried about haha. I'm just going to get my tuner to suss it. I didn't know it was technical like this with ebc's.

Yeah awesome bro cheers for all your info! I think we both must have done the same thing at the same time as we have both answered the same questions I originally asked lol. But yeah, really excited to hear there is a way to see if an engine has been forged without ripping it apart I will modulate the shit out of my throttle until it gets to XSpeed lol. Cheers

The Profec Bs adjustable settings (SET, GAIN, LIMITER) all display figures in a percentage and not PSI. The screens that display actual PSI readings are START BOOST, WARNING, PEAK and LAST BOOST. I've had a few developments since starting this thread. Got my hands on the English Profec B II manual and this has cleared up a few of my misconceptions. I realised that the PEAK setting is actually just to record the highest boost ever reached (could be a 3 year old reading) - it's not the set boost limit. The LIMITER setting is the setting I need to sort out as its currently set to a figure (will be checking this when I get to my car today) that lets the boost climb and climb and climb. Since I've seen my car hit 30 psi in 4th, I know the LIMITER limit function is set at 99% or something near it (at 99% the GREDDY manual says that boost will be completely unlimited) James

Question 3 has an answer! Cheers bro

BUMP

So I've done a bit of searching and nothing really comes up for my situation. I have the Profec B Spec II and have recently realised that my boost limit is set to 34.5 psi (im assuming this is close on the max for this controller) and the boost warning is only a warning and not the level at which it is limited to. A lot of my confusion relating to my car, I've realised, can now be attributed to my boost controller and settings. Some of you guys can remember me posting some seemingly "random" posts about traction, boost etc. and a lot of my queries were relating to symptoms caused by not having a boost level set. So the situation at the moment is that my boost (being set at 34.5) never peaks (with the exception of 4th gear under full throttle) and I have the pottential to put down close to double the safe boost level for an rb20det. All the other settings on the controller look correct, with warning light pressures consistently different between HI (20psi) and LO (16psi) modes etc and Gain % @ 5% (LO) and 10% (HI) My questions are as follows... 1) Would an engine that has probably seen 30 psi 5 or so times in its rebuilt life be damaged? Even if there are no hallmarks of wear (oil leaks, cracks, engine noise etc) 2) Is it possible that I may have some forged internals seeing as it has exceeded 20 psi regularly (couple of times every drive) and not complained at all? 3) How do you set the boost level on a Profec B II (manual is in Japanese) 4) What does it mean by Gain % on the controller? 5) Should I change the settings on the controller or wait for my tuner to do it in a couple of weeks? James