FATGTS-R

Nfi made a good point on battery voltage. The two you tested first, when battery would of had more charge are the highest readings. Try it again going in reverse order from lowest reading cylinder to highest and see if theres a difference? And as mentioned, a leakdown test will give a better indication of engine health.

Obviously there is potential for serious damage using the average a/f ratio but as mentioned its out of reach for the majority. On a 6 cylinder for example individual cylinder a/f ratios could be 12,9,12,12,15,12. One cylinder is dangerously lean and another is stupidly rich but the single o2 sensor will read the average of them all which would be smack on 12:1. Most people on here prefer bang for buck and simplicity i.e bolt in fmic kit, exhaust, straight swap injectors and fuel pump, bolt on high flow turbo and a PFC (plugs in with a base tune). To do what you are saying would require the manifold to be removed, drilled, threads welded on and then purchase of the O2 or EGT probe. What did the EGT probe cost? And then a gauge. Then the tuning process will be be prolonged as they go through one cylinder at a time. This will be a significant larger amount of money for the total tuning process and frankly its a gamble 98% of people are willing to take. I dont think its a case of people not knowing about it but more of not willing to spend the money for it. Plenty of cars run around just fine using a single average a/f ratio. For informations sake, when my car was tuned he used a infra red thermometer and just pointed it at each runner to make sure there was no large variance.

If you have a/market ecu then you answered your own question. It needs to be tuned. When you say wet plugs I am assuming you mean wet with fuel?

firstly, if the timing belt is getting done make sure you do the bearings in there along with the seals and maybe even do the water pump. Also check the welsch plug behind the water pump as its a nightmare to replace later on. Secondly, if a workshop is fitting up all these fuel system upgrades for you I would find another workshop. They should know and should of informed you that it wont work. They either dont have a clue or see you as an easy target. Backyard billy would know that fitting the fuel system components you have on the stock ecu will result in an undriveable car. It will have fouled plugs and be blowing plumes of smoke before you get out there driveway.

Just for infos sake, the thread doctor came out to us from Narre warren and we are pleased with the work. One stud he easy outed and said was not to difficult but the second one was a lot harder and he couldnt easy out it so from what I was told he used some type of spring/coil or something that got it out? Not sure but think its called a helicoil? No idea how they work or what they are though. Total cost was $110 including and he left with happy customers. Will definately recommend him to anyone.

How much boost is "full boost" and what power are you making?

From what I was told, a shootout run should have the inlet temp sensor placed inside the inlet tract just before the throttle body i.e after any intercoolers etc but this is obviously going to be more time consuming on a dyno day for example and never is adhered to.

Thanks heaps for all the info guys! The comparison pics will help immensely and thanks for the numbers Crack. But if there are no numbers on the boxes how does one tell if its from an R33 or R34?

Im still the winner so far!! With a plain bearing internal gated dinosaur from 1987 But when carls is finished it should be a serious piece of gear. Glad to see someone throw some serious coin at an RB20 and share all the details as well. For that I congratulate you and wish you all the best..

^^^^^ as above. If you have just shelled out for a forged internal rebuild getting advice from total strangers over the net is a bad idea. The person who screwed it together should have given you the answer.

Maybe try contacting some of the serious VLT workshops and see what info they have? Bresciani, Rajab etc

Hence the reason why shootout mode software was developed. It compensates by either adding power when temps are high or reducing when they are cold. In theory, if you ran on the dyno in winter and then on a 40 deg day in summer results should be the same using the shootout method. Dry Ice? Pointless for a car that sees any street driving as you would have to constantly fill it up. My mate has a 800rwhp dyno warrior with a large dry ice setup and 3 power runs later its empty. And its hard to find and not cheap.

If the hub dynos if anything read higher then the 550cc injectors you have should be well up to the task. Yes, looking at the a/f plot it is starting to head north at the top end which indicates lack of fuel. But reading your list of mods, I would be looking to the walbro pump as a suspect before the injectors.

That would explain why I have had enormous trouble trying to find out the number and why the person who crawled under there car for me couldnt see anything. But from memory, I beleive the rb20 boxes actually have a number on them so I thought the rb25s would as well. The only reason I wanted this part number is because I am looking for a RB25 box as my 20 box died and if I go to look at one or whatever I want to be able to know it is the correct part. Only info I have is that the rb25 box is a lot larger than the rb20 one. But the 33/34s also had NA manuals so what boxes where behind them? Obviously weaker than the turbo variant but are they visualy the same as the turbo box from outside or look like the RB20 boxes? Then theres the MX7 from VLT that also can bolt up so I dont want to be confused. In a nutshell I want a way of being 100% certain as to identifying the 25 box? And also a way of telling R33 from R34.

Guess it wasnt such a simple question as I cant find the info anywhere. Got someone to crawl under there car and they couldnt see a part number either.

Hes talking about drag.....

Pm sent with genuine enquiry.....

Have a mate in need of a catback. Please inform the brand of exhaust. (JASMA is not a brand)

Still need a gearbox!!!!! Anybody in VIC with one for sale please message me.

Hi everybody, Relatively simple question I hope. Can someone please inform me of the part number for the gearbox in the R33GTST or R34 GTT? I tried a search but my efforts didnt find anything. Thanks Jayson...............

Not just GTRs. When power is elevated more often than not first and second gears are subject to some wheelspin. From third onwards when full traction is available the drivetrain has to deal with the full brunt of the torque being delivered. In theory the clutch should be the fuse in the driveline and never be rated higher than anything behind it. But in practise most people have no problems putting in clutches rated higher than the driveline they are designed to protect hence gearbox, tailshaft, diff,axle breakages.

Your car would take longer to reach normal operating temp so the ecu will see these lower temps and keep the car in its cold start enrichment cycle longer which is only a waste of fuel

PM sent

If revs are flaring but road speed doesnt match its usually a clutch slipping.

Thanks!