FATGTS-R

Nice run Legend, well done. Going to a drag day in late October and hope to crack 12s. In theory could possibly get low 12's/high 11s but the R31 suspension is not a slick unit and the driver is hopeless lol. Last time out with very bad tyres ran 14s @ 109mph with 235rwkw. Have 280rwkw this time and some ET streets to us so if I can drive it well enough should hopefully run something respectable. Stock turbo as well hahaha!!!!!!!!!

Obviously there could be many things as to why your car is not as fast. But it comes across as if you assume the silvertop "should" be faster. The silver came out when all the emissions crap was going on etc. It had a BOV where the red didnt have to. Dont quote me but I think the eccs redtops were also cammed differently i.e more aggresively. The redtop could of been freshend up in its lifetime where your silver could be on its last legs etc etc etc. The ex gibson GTSR's run redtops and go just fine lol.

Its the job of the synchros to "synchronize" the engine and road speed on gearshifts. So if you were blipping the throttle to match engine/road speed then you are saving wear on synchros. Personally, its second nature to me. Not because I'm a track racer (never been on one) but because I am a truck driver and half my works fleet have non synchro boxes.

It was a real GTS-R a long, long time ago. The only thing GTS-R left on it is the paint colour and the interior.

Definately remove the butterflys in a redtop as its a major restriction. All redtops are 12 port heads as opposed to 6 porters in the silvertops. There is a butterfly on every second port on a redtop with the actuating rod going through al 12 ports. The area the rod itself takes is a lot of restriction. If you took the area the rod takes across all 12 ports it equates to having two ports completly blocked if not more so remove them completley.

Hahahahahahaha. I work for a transport company with a fleet of 15 trucks. I have been approached by all the "fuel saver" companies over the years trying to flog there rubbish at me. From fuel line clamps, to inline magnets to magic pills to drop in the tank they arrive in my office promising the world. Last month was the "Robots Tampon guy" as he has been nicknamed lol. He gave me 3 devices. Put one in a small truck that does multi drop in metro and no improvement. One in the interstater with no improvement. One went in a hilux ute and according to the fuel receipts it has gained over a litre/100km economy....weird, its the only non turbo vehicle it went in..all diesel. Every driver came to me though and asked "what the f@ck is the chain hanging off my fuel cap" LMFAO. Let me know what your findings are with the tampon URAS.

Have you noticed any change with the pedal height? You mention a very heavy clutch and I also have a heavy clutch and had the exact same scenario one time. The problem was a mangled clutch pedal box/bracket. Its only made from thin folded metal with a random tack weld here and there. A heavy clutch can bend and twist up this bracket so when your pressing the pedal down to disengage a lot of the travel is lost with the bracket bending and not the clutch fork moving. If your on your own get underneath the dash with a torch and have a look or get a mate and get him to press the clutch down while your underneath the car and looking at the travel to see if it coincides with the pedal movement. Long shot I know, but it pissed me off for a while trying to find the problem and is also a common problem when heavier clutches are fited.

Damn, I am about to try and get the speedo on mine working but going through this thread again its doing my head in. I also recall someone else in another thread saying the navara drive needs to be rotated as it comes with a cog with less teeth, hence smaller diameter, meaning it would need to sit closer. So putting a larger diameter cog would obviously be pushing up too hard. But someone mentioned a navara drive with 21 teeth so maybe this particular drive has a shaft in a similar if not identical position? Simon, can you verify the part number of the navara drive you purchased? I was about to order a 32 GTR pinion assembly and rip off the cog and put the 33 one on by drilling out the half moon to a full circle and aralditing the sucker on but now I am not sure. Seems I can save a few bucks using the navara unit. Also someone said they cut down a GTR assembly by 5mm? What adverse effect would be seen by not cutting it down? A couple of people mentioned a washer? and an M6 bolt? I thought I swapped cogs and dropped it in and job done....but I have not actually pulled the 33 one out yet so it might be more obvious when I look at it. For something that seems quite simple, all the differing opinions make it confusing.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=19707 Thats a garrett factory fitted T3/T04E on a GTSR. They can work ok, for an old school turbo, if the combination is right. Thers a million types of T3/T4 so its hard to know what will happen untill you throw it on. It is a .60 TO4 compressor housing and the exhaust I beleive is 0.63, same size as whats on a VLT I beleive. No information on trims.

As someone mentioned you cant say 50rwkw equals x amount of tenths of the time as it depends on the initial power the 50rwkw was added to. A 50kw increase on a 500kw car is a power gain of 10%. Whereas in your case the 50kw going from 125 to 175kw is a 40% power gain. And you cant compare to other peoples results as you mention the dyno you went on is a little out of whack. Which leaves only one way to find out.....

I have a recently rebuilt os twin as well and it can shudder sometimes. You end up finding a sweet spot that lets you get away cleanly (sometimes) in stop start low speed stuff. What you say about revving to 3 grand or more and slowly releasing i.e riding it will kill your newly built clutch very quickly. Before my rebuild it was fine with zero slipping and then my gearbox locked up in fourth. I had to ride it really bad to get my car home a hundred metres away. When the box came off the clutch was cactus. Twin plates are not fond of being slipped.

The best bet would be to find out who in your area is an authorised dealer with the hardware/software to tune it and go and ask them.

Hi Mate I also use the falcon coilpack, controlled by an autronic. I'll find out the dwell setting and let you know. For the record, before the falcon unit my car killed 9 VN coils. Literally spewed the epoxy stuff everywhere.

Amazing result. As others have mentioned its astonishing that not only did it gain ~20rwkw at the top end but its ahead on power over the 32 item right from the basement. Also, either you typed the dimentions incorrect or you calculated incorrectly as going from the dimentions you posted the 34 item is actually 3608 cubic cms having a larger area of 1271 cubic cms meaning it comes in at over 50% larger in cubic area. Over 50% greater area is a nice upgrade in anyones language.

Flicking through a few mags looking at drag cars and noticed one or two had mentioned they had converted from right hand drive to left hand but none of the articles mentioned the reason for it. Can someone that knows tell me the reason for it? I gather its a weight shifting exercise but why? All I could think of was trying to keep the car straighter and more horizontal off the line. Whenever I see a pic of a drag car at launch, if its only going to pick up one wheel it always picks up the passenger side wheel which I guess is due to the rotational direction of the drivetrain?

I'd say there would not be much in it running the 18s. The 255 gives you up to 10mm more width. I say up to as a tyres width rating is a maximum width allowed meaning it could in fact be smaller. Wheels or Motor mag did a tyre comparo a while ago with a variety of 245 wide 17s and only one make of tyre (the cheapest) actually measured up to 245 wide, the rest were all narower. The 245 tyre will give you around 9mm more sidewall which is ideal for drag but make your overall diameter 18mm taller. I guess if one had to be chosen it would be the 245 but thats assuming both tyres are the same make etc.

Yeah I hear ya roy. Having the GTSR I am planning to keep an RB20 in it no matter what. Where I am at now with over 250rwkw everyone keeps telling me that I need cams next but like you said I have not seen any data from RB20s running aftermarket cams that can show a low end power hike. I am quite happy with the top end grunt it has now and would love to move the band left a little bit and pull a few psi out but have not seen anyone prove its possible.

My experience (in an R31 coupe) is that the lesser your experience is then the more power you have will likely impede you. I have only been to the strip once and had ~235rwkw and thought I was going to go home with a 12 second slip. I left with a string of flat 14s at around 108-110mph. The adrenalin rush, and my green racing experience resulted in the first two gears just being blazing wheelspin and bouncing off the limiter while trying to keep it straight. With less power I think I might of gone faster.

I asked the same question to the owner of the ex-gibson GTSR which runs the same system. He basically told me that all the fancy pumps in the boot feed the mech pump and that the elec pumps couldnt hold a candle to the capability of the mech pump. The reason, as someone already mentioned was that they used injectors that were too small (he told me they were standard?) to flow the fuel requirements being fed from only electric pumps so the mech one was there to force the fuel through the injectors no doubt with a tad bit of fuel pressure.

You mentioned same day same dyno so I have no idea how the tuner felt he was able to give your car back in that state. You have nothing to worry about going back to them. Plug the stock ecu in and go for a drive with them and then plug in the $1,000 tuned PFC and drive again. If its as bad as you say then you wont need to say a word. Get him to bring his wideband along as that will have a story to tell as well. And why would he do the base run in third and final tune run in 4th? Just dont fiddle with any settings and contact them asap, like be there with the car first thing in the morning. If you have to work then call them up first thing to let them know and arrange a time.

Ouch thats nasty and making me freak out a little bit. I had a Gates belt fitted a couple thousand kms ago and it whirrs very loudly. The belt cover is off and I dont think I could get 10mm play in it. The mech that fitted it said it will loosen up after a thousand or so kays and that the whirring noise is perfectly normal. Will I have to do the whole belt replacement procedure i.e timing etc to loosen it or can I safely just loosen it off a little bit with it all in place? I have never done it myself before hence I dont know how the tensioner operates.

How much power do you have now? What do you plan on doing with the car? You have ruled out the 25 item but if its only a quick streeter you want then I reckon its hard to beat. If you must have that magical 200rwkw figure then a 2530 or equivalent is good also. With the turbo I have (standard GTSR) if I run it with the solenoid off and straight off the spring it makes around 180rwkw. For a street car it is damn fast with that power. The point is that 180rwkw to over 200rwkw is not a great step in power but a great step in what ancillaries are required and hence money. Have you driven an RB20 with around 180kw?

Very interesting indeed. Cant wait to see the for sale sections flood with high flow injectors. This thread is going to hit 5 pages by this time tomorrow lol.

1) GTR pump - internal 2) 31 GTS-R with RB20, modified, OEM fuel regulator, 280+rwkw 3) - Ease of installation: no idea as it was installed as part of the sale of car. - Noise level in cabin: can hear it humming noticably when priming before startup but once fired you cant hear it and I dont have a loud exhaust. - Starting issues: none - 1/4 tank syndrome: none

Have you tried using the motecs boost control?