Deza3000

I actually agree with this, whats the use of having power if you dont utilize it properly. Big power for drifting is extremely unnecessary and a waste of money.

Haha thats fkin amazing, your cars got that chevy orange color as well =p Engine seems to fit nicely.

That's pretty sick, that must of cost ya a fair bit though. I tried looking for pics but the forum for "best looking NA" is massive! Thats really odd cause my cousin also has a R34 with a loud exhaust (little riced up as well), 110db and cops never pull him over either. I mainly see them pulling over unroadworhty cars like old bombs. I guess its just my area. N/as dont really attract much attention anyway. I know sometimes the cops run rego plates through the system before pulling you over to see if the engine is classified as turbocharged.

LOL oh that throws what i said out the window. Have you ever got caught? Come to think about it, ive been on my Ps for 3 years and not a single cop has bothered to pull me over. Maybe ive just been wasting my time with my stupid n/a and should upgrade to a turbo. hmmm

lol thats easy for you guys to say, we still need to abide by these stupid p plater laws =='

Yep thats true, lets not forget thrashed cars and cars that havent been looked after well. My mate bought a El falcon at 290,000 ks, full service history and everything. It was the most immaculate el ive seen and it drives better than most falcons ive been in. Handled a good thrashing as well.The previous owner was an elder bloke, always treated the car like new, however i do feel like its going to waste after it got handed down to my mates hands. Milage isnt everything i guess. Its just a natural instinct to be turned off seeing high milage when buying a car no matter what the physical condition of the car is. Yea but thats a big risk especially with older cars, if that snaps thats 3k down the drain. Especially in aussie conditions where theres sudden spikes in temps, it causes the belt to become tough, dry and weaken.

I guess youre right =/ http://j-spec.com.au...nd-back-mileage If thats the case then, imports must have some pretty good reliability seeing as we dont change the timing belts until the "fake" mileage has been hit. Im on 80,000kms timing belt is still good. No wear outs or problems at all. I can say that for most import owners here. Edit: a genuine certificate was actually provided to me with my car ;p

i actually thought that as well until a mate of mine went over to japan, he said since japan being a small country dont drive as much as we do, taxi's and public transport is more common there than driving, hence why a lot of imports arrive less than 100,000ks on the dial. Also one way to identify if a car has genuine low kms is by looking at the engine by how much corrosion the valve covers have. My engine was clean but the valve covers was covered with corrosion due to being garaged. Took me a while to clean it all off. Another way is compression check, so far the car seems genuine =). As for the price, i think the P plater laws may have influenced the fluctuation of n/a imports.

Naa maybe for a series 1 but mine is a series 2 coupe, had 50,000ks on the clock, imacculate condition, looked brand new, Came with Sparco rims and GTR spoiler. Compared to all the other skylines, it was a pretty good buy, if you look on car sales right now (as a reference) you wont find any n/a coupe 1996 onwards under 100,000ks for less than 10k both auto and manual, Maybe a 4 door, turbo'd or series 1 but not series 2 coupe. Also i bought this car 3 years ago. Incase you think im lieing have a browse and link me an r33 with similar specs to mine (excluding the sparco rims and gtr spoiler) for under 10k n/a. =) http://www.carsales....ge=Year:Min,Max

Sorry if i sounded like a fanboy, i was just pointing out that its not the slowest n/a car in the world, not the fastet either. My dad owned 2 magna's for the past 20 years, they're great cars (apart from those oil leaks and transmission problem at 200,000ks), a little disappointed that they stopped making them. I was looking into getting the mitsubishi galant vr4 before getting my licence, settled for a N/a r33 after p plate laws kicked in. Decided to go with the evo for my next car, wouldnt mind a gto either. As for the cars i raced, my car is an auto as well, not manual. All the manuals i was interested in were either thrashed or turbo'd. You're right in saying the older falcons and commies are quicker than some of the newer ones, el is quicker than au's, Vn is quicker than the VZ. Ive actually witnessed races between these cars. They go so much harder off the line, however vz does tend to catch up in the long run since it becomes a all horsepower race. My r33 falls behind a vn commodore which is sad since my mate bought his VN for 900 while i paid 10k for my car. But being a owner of an n/a i can definitely say that i dont have any regrets buying my n/a r33, its served me well.

The only difference is looks, transmission, and suspension. The turbo in the 34 is also slightly different which doesnt even matter cause they produce the same power anyway. Its going to be your pride and joy so i reckon you should go look at all the cars yourself, look at a few 33s and 34s, and pick the one that speaks to you. Seeing as you like both, theres no other way to pick one.

haha naa but just making a point that they arent slow as people say they are, its a massive exaggeration, making it sound like its slower than a yaris or something. Its not like 90% of p platers will be racing on tracks anyways, its quick in enough for our driving skill level and enjoyment, Anything faster and we'd all be dead. We're all just entry level enthusiasts after all (although alot of p plates think they are paul walker once they get their liscence). And the fact that i actually pull away from some of these n/a's is satisfying enough for me, i really wish i could give you some proof. Ill be upgrading to an evo some time this year anyway so theres nothing biased here, just trying to make a point.

Thats what i said, Ba and Vz onwards beats N/a skylines (195+kw/1.6tonne vs 140kw/1.4tonne obviously, ), all the commies and falcons prior to that lose, ive raced my mates vt, mates au, mates el falcon, mates vy, so many and won against all of them. Only car i didnt win was against the EL falcon xr6. Funny thing is i bet the au xr6 and kept up with a au xr8. Every other car in its time loses, and i know that for sure since ive won every race against them. Dont get me started on honda accords, mazda 3s and 6s, magnas (non vrx), camrys, bmw z4 etc, n/a beats them all. When i said it beats most N/a's out there, i was talking about all v6s and 4cyls. Theres only a few that do beat the skyline n/a and that is vrx magna, aurion, newer gen commies and falcons, civic/prelude/integra vtecs, a 150,000 dollar bmer, 370z, 350z, golf gti etc.

Skyline N/as arent slow, they are pretty quick for what they are. Think of it this way, 1996 r33 n/a up against a commie or falcon in its time, 1999 r34 skyline n/a same scenario, they pretty much win in both straight lines and tracks. One of my friends who owns a vz sv6 drove my car, he says it felt much more sportier and enjoyable to drive than his commie ( even though his commie pulls away at about 200m). Thats his opinion obviously, but it should give you an idea of its performance. They beat most N/as out there. People who say they are slow either f**ked their own n/a up by putting some shitty loud canon and a exposed air filter, or cant drive manual for sh**. Ba's and Vz's onwards, the n/a skyline does start to lose ground, but those cars are 4-6 years younger than the much older skyline. For a 15 year old n/a to keep up with n/as of today, is certainly impressive and shouldnt be stereotyped as slow. They are great cars, and as a fellow p plater its probably one the best cars you can own legally.

I was thinking the exact same thing.

Finally found the cause of the rattle, turns out its the heat shield in-between the boot and the muffler, Might wedge an aluminum piece in there to stop the rattle.

Ive driven the r34 GTR vspec funded by wishtool for a day, 380awkw, its a beast of a car. It does have more luxury items like the onboard computer, throttle response and all that shit. Something which isnt present in the r33, and i also think the r34 gtr is 6 speed manual while the r33 gtr is 5? But in the end its what you want, cause they both have the same engine anyway so its going to give you close to equal performance on the straights. Maybe on the track the r34 GTR might have a slightly better advantage, but i highly doubt your going to be doing that. Also for half the price of a normal r34 GTR you can get a r33 gtr vspec, something to consider. In the end they are both terrific cars, performance wise they are equal. R34 might be more of a head turner, if your into that type of thing.

Yea you might be right, ill look into it, maybe its just from the resonator onwards thats 2.5inch, rest might just be 2.25.

While installing my muffler the inlet matched the exhaust pipe which was 2.5 inch, the n/a r33s came with 2 different exhaust styles, some came with a butterfly valve from factory(my exhaust), some did not. I know for certain my r33's exhaust is from factory since my friend has the exact same car, and his exhaust is also a 2.5 inch with a butterfly valve on the right tip. I know im right since i actually welded the muffler on myself.

Nope 2.5 inch, I remember because i bought a cannon ( 2.5 inch inlet) which welded straight onto my exhaust without a problem. Im not sure if all the N/As have it though? Might vary between series 1 and series 2, r33 and r34 etc.. Edit: My r33 is the n/a model which came with 149kw from factory not 140.

Rb n/as are factory fitted with 2.5inch exhausts. Only way to get rid of a drone is to use a silencer or get a proper exhaust. Edit: or leave it stock

I took out the whole jack and theres stll the same rattle, it has reduced a little, i also tightened all the nuts the jack holds onto. Im beginning to think its coming from the parcel shelf, ill probably take that apart next to identify the problem.

Ohhh right, i already tightened that but it still makes a noise, ill check again though. Maybe the whole thing is just loose.

Oh really?? where abouts is the screw located? ill try and have a look.

Where abouts Melbourne to you live? In the southern suburbs theres a place called dande exhausts that offered to fit a full custom catback exhaust for my cousings r34 n/a for 400 dollars (with options for a variety of exhaust tips). Unless you wanted something a bit more cheaper. You could probably shop around and find other places, but ive had some good services done by these guys. You can also as suggested fit a canon, but talking from personal experience, you dont want to do that, its loud, drowny, and slow =='. Either get a catback or leave it stock. You can also try AVO however they fit enthusiast grade performance parts, im talking hks, 5zigen, apexi n1 evolutions exhaust systems, etc, $1100 + 350 for a custom cai, they also do a dyno run for 400. Given an estimated 15-20rwkw tops from an avo staff memeber for my n/a r33.