Deza3000

Id go AEM man, They're one of the best in my books.

#@Duncan Cheers for the response (:, yea i got some benedix brake cleaner and a wire brush so ill give that a crack as well. The pads say Hawks Performance ceramic? Thats what it says on the box so i assume thats the compound. Yea i realize aggressive pads dont like normal driving conditions, hence why i told the service centre that i want some no noise brake pads, with the main priority being lower noise > performance. They used the same pads they had 100% success rate with in regards to noise, it seems to not squeal for their GTRs, evos, wrxs etc.. they use it on their own cars as well, so i trusted their judgement. They were actually surprised when i called them up to complain about the noise, so they told me to bed them in again, which only worked for a week. But yea ill give everything listed here a go, see where it gets me, and will report back. Will do it later tonight. **Fingers crossed**

Haha i was starting to think it was just me At least i know im not over reacting! Ill take on board all the suggestions and post back here with results I realize this discussion has been burnt through 1000s of times, but nothing seemed to be working, so wanted some fresh ideas. Thanks for the help guys, gave me something to do

+35 offset on 18 inch (235, 45, 18) wheels looks nice on skylines. The offset on most skylines is usually for brembo clearance though... Thats the only reason you'd actually worry about offset... the brake clearance. Not sure if they rub the guards or not on the GTST or GTS. Also camber = useless if you dont track your car, you will just end up with un-even wear man. But yea probs +40 max on 18s to be on the safe side (provided it isnt a GTR). ooo And also, these guys do know a bloody f*** load about cars, they have a lot of experiences, wheels isnt really worth a discussion unless the situation is something unique, hence their responses Have a look through the forum, you will see very technical questions, things i dont even understand, and they answer it bloody well and true. But yea hope i helped you though, congrats on the car

In reply to XKLBA: Cheers for the advice man!, ill try the silicone, that crc stuff and bed the discs in again before trying another set of pads. Ill also drive it a bit harder; instead of longer light braking ill try moderate heavy braking. The braking is pretty solid which i admire about the brembos, its just that noise which ruins the driving experience. Especially when those non-car enthusiasts assume you just have a bad car. I was told by a bloke at autobarn to just get some benedix composite pads when he heard my car from the parking lot, said its just shredding my rotors, so ill probably go for that if all else fails. The car is an all rounder, track days on the holidays, daily driver during work/uni periods. 3 sets of pads in a 6 month period ...==' Oh too easy, cheers ill give this a crack too, hopefully it will do something If it works every 2 weeks, id rather do this than bed them in every 2 weeks

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-tires-wheels-brakes-suspension-sponsored-tire-rack/347375-fixed-sqealing-hawk-brake-pads.html I also came across this, they suggested using CRC De-squeak to spray on the rotors, do we sell anything like that here in australia under a different name? Seems to have worked for them.

Thanks for the quick replys In reply to sinista32: - Yea i had the callipers looked at, they had a look at all the brackets, pins, shims etc.... Bent them into shape (they had lost a little bit of their original shape), greased up all components, and they put it on the hoist, accelerated the car and applied the brakes, they identified that it the noise is generated between the pad and rotors - All the brake shops and tuning companies are saying the rotors aren't rough, their isnt enough friction hence why it squeals, they keep suggesting to bed them in, but its not a permanent solution cause they keep smoothing out when i drive normally. Also when i get the rotors machined, the noise does disappear, until the pad transfers onto the rotor, which then starts to gradually squeal again, in which case i bed them in (which is basically transferring pad to the rotor anyway) and it goes away. In reply to XKLABA: - Disc rotors are RDA pretty sure, but even my old OEM ones would squeal, so not too sure thats the problem? - Yea i tried that anti-squeal sticky stuff, put that both sides of the shims and stuck it onto the pads, still no luck. It happens once its warmed up, which is odd.. Sounds exactly like this : Except much much worse in person, you'd probably pass out if you had the window down.

Run flats are usually more expensive than standard tyres too. Id rather get nice sticky good quality high performance tyres than run flats. Good quality tyres are harder to get punctured anyway, from personal experience

Hey guys, made a similar post around 1 year ago regarding my squealing brakes. Ive literally ran out of ideas, no clue what to do, i just keep getting horrible atrocious squeal every red light, every residential strip, every shopping center, crowded areas, school zones. Made me want to rip those brembos off and just smack it against the wall. Things ive tried based on research and advice from multiple service centers: QFM HPX pads: - Installed shims - sprayed anti-squeal - Bedded in the pads - worked for like 1 week - changed the rotors to crossdrilled/slotted - Bedded in again - Changed the pads to Hawks (which apparently dont make noise as advertised) Cost me another 400 dollars including machining discs and installation Hawks pads: - Stopped squealing for like a week but then started gradually getting louder and louder - Bedded them in using an online guide - worked for 2 weeks until it started squealing again ==' - Drove the car bloody freakin hard doing Heavy braking and skidz out of frustration of the atrocious noise that kept occuring, in the hope that the squeal will stop... Its pretty obvious the reason is because the rotors arent staying rough enough for the pads to stop squealing. Is there anyway that once the pads are bedded in, for the rotors to stay roughened up so they dont squeal? They usually squeal once they get warm up, about 5 minutes worth of normal driving. Any other suggestions? with 400 dollars i could of fixed my damaged turbo ==; Hate these unnecessary expenses

No worries, word of advice though, having owned 2 skylines and have 3 other friends with skylines, make sure the coilpacks have been changed. R34 coilpacks end up dieing around 80,000ks giving you a check engine light error, along with shaky idles, misfires, and poor acceleration. Based on my experience as well as a couple of my mates, it is bound to happen.

Nobody needs a skyline in general man You either want it or you dont. Its obvious you want the coupe so just say so, dont try to justify that the 4 door is overkill hence why you want the 2 door. But answering your original question, you will find a clean one from the dealership, if not private sale for 10-12k

^ Trueeeeeee, the 4 door ones are cheapppppp, they go for the same price here in victoria as well. 6-10k. Much cheaper than the 2 doors.

The Xr6 turbo, especially the BF and FG with the ZF auto, farrrk, does numbers around most v8s. Had a run at a stock FG xr6 turbo with my evo (also stock) only had the lead till 60kp/h, till he caught up and pulled away. Theyre quick man, probably the only aussie car id actually buy. You can get them running 12s easily, cheaper to mod as well. Not sure how it will hold up on the track though compared to evos and GTRs haha.

Haha exactly, you always want more, especially if there is someone faster. That ego haha.

They range from 9k to 15k on average, with the R34 GT-V being the most expensive (due to having turbo charged bits and pieces). Ohh and i just saw your last comment.... No you wont be satisfied with a non turbo, youre only on your Ls! You havent experienced anything yet. When you see a standard FG xt falcon pull away from you, you will feel dissatisfied. Come to think of it, single turbo gtt stock is also not very satisfying

The question is what can you do to an N/A engine? ;p Also any performance modification of any sorts is considered illegal for a p plater

If its a 2001 r34 GT-V then it should fit as this particular n/a r34 uses turbo charged bits and pieces including suspension, 4 piston nissan brakes, etc....

Check your old post man! We already answered this for you!

Yea most like be the exact same turbo, only thing different would be the nozzle are going from 9.0t to 9.8t (seeing as i cant find 9.0t anywhere). If its just an extra couple 100 for the tune up then ill probably do it asap, another 880 then ill just stick with my current setup =='

Hey guys, i got a little bit of an issue. A few days back i decided to get my car mildly tuned (after some minor modifications) for 98 ron fuel and driveablitiy. Towards the end of the tune, the car was making much more power across the rev range however, the tuner stated it should be much higher provided the amount of boost the car was running. He then checked a few bits a pieces and then noticed the compressor wheel on the turbo was damaged, it had a few pieces missing and looked like it shaved a bit of the turbo housing. So basically i need a new turbo, however this tune cost me 880 dollars, Seeing as the boost is adjusted via the solenoid, will getting the exact same second hand turbo throw this tune out the window?

Yea though so, almost the same price as getting a dyno run and a tune My priorities have always been Performance > Looks, but this bumper is sitting in my living room so just wanted to get it fitted already haha. Cheers mate

Its still pretty confusing, but i understand what you mean I only lost 3 demit points on my final few months on my Ps for something silly, and i was confused to whether i stay on 3 even on my fulls or bump up to 9 (or just reset to the full 12). As long as I dont have to live with 3 demrit points for the next 3 years ill be happy, gives me piece of mind no its my fault! Didnt state i was from victoria.

Cheers for the info . So i reset after 3 years? too easy. So hard to navigate through all those vic roads pages ==' If only Victoria was like queensland, their slightly more lenient with issues like these

Haha yea thats true, but i assumed thats what the OP was referring too. ;p

Too easy, cheers bud