Deza3000

1/4 mile time mick???

If the rattle occurs when the dump pipe gets hot, that means its coming into contact with something when the metal expands. When i had my 3inch dump pipe installed on my car, it also rattled, the exhaust shop kept adjusting the position until clearance was 100%. Id probably look into that first. Also, its known for some RBs do have a certain level of piston slap (my old r33 had this above 2000rpm), maybe the bigger pipe is just amplifying the sound.

Are those bilstein shocks i see ?? Were those factory fitted on the MRs? I originally wanted those shocks with lowering springs but they cost too much! 1000 dollars for 2

Yea mine were pretty clunky to, especially around the bends, not sure if was worn rubber mounts or just worn shocks, invested in HKS coilovers, probably wont be as good as MCAs though Those are proper track spec! Yea the gearbox goes for a good price, but unfortunately the 6 speed is rather weak compared to the 5 speeds, only good for about 400-450whp. 5 speed boxes are known to be much more durable, the track spec evo 9 RS had the 5 speeds, while the standard 9 GSR and MR had the 6 speeds. Not sure how the gear ratios are on the 6 speeds though, they top out at around 280kph.

Oh nice! I need to do some more prep work before taking mine to the track ==; what brand were the pads/rotors? Project u by any chance? AYC must be in top condition, otherwise you'd have an open rear diff Were you on coilovers? Haha yea evos come out of the factory track ready Is your tranny on its way out? Old trannys with a built motor would reveal some of its hidden defects/abuse . Mitsubishi chadston parts and service sell brand new 5 and 6 speed transmissions for evo 8 and 9 with overnight pickup, think they go for about 3k if you are interested. Should fit a 7 considering its also CT9A. It would probably cost the same as overhauling your current one. Probably get it cheaper online, but yea something to think about in the near future.

How did it perform on the track ? Did you have any problems with AYC running that much power?

No problem, just spoke to a tuner, they said the exact same thing you did, new wiring and a relay, 100 bucks for all that including installing the pump so should be sweet, would of done it myself if it was just simply swapping out the pump but ahh well. Rather get it done right the first time. I actually just did some research on the turbos, turns out the evo 9 and 8mr turbo features the titanium compressor wheel, which is why they spool much faster than the 4/5/6/7/8 (excluding 6.5), funny thing is my turbo only has the 9.8t housing which is smaller than the 10.5t housing on the 9. (by which according to the laws of physics smaller housing should spool faster?) I was leaning between 256 or 264, ill see how i go. Would i need to retune the car if i get cams done on a later date?

Sweet, ill see how i go with a flex tune. Do you recommend any fuel pumps? I was going to buy the walbro 455lph e85 pump, but apparently they draw too much voltage ?? Fuel pump relayyy maybe? Or different brand? Yea i realize that, I just assumed its the RWD drivetrain and valve timings that made them so responsive, considering the BMW 120d is also pretty responsive. Evo 9 and 10 also have the variable valve timing (mivec) as well as a much bigger turbo than its predecessors with very minor turbo lag, hence why i thought cams would do the trick. Anyways flex tune all the way! I have a united that supplies race fuel(which i assume is e85) near my house so thats convenient.

LOL v8s zzzzzzz, not a fan Haha yea it responds great! But in comparison to some new cars that i have come across (335i, audi, c63 amg, even evo 10s),my initial throttle response/takeoff seems so mediocre, i hit power at 3000rpm, losing a bit of time on takeoff. Guess the AWD also has a part to play, and the fact that i hate launching. Hahahaha ive seen some evos go hard with cam and turbo upgrades but not sure how much of an improvement camshafts are without other bolt ons (i.e. bigger turbo), i dont know if cams will justify the cost considering what i want. Flex tune is a tune for a variation of ethenol levels yea? Senses the amount of ethanol in the system and adjusts timing accordingly?? I was actually keen on doing that for a few months, cant make up my mind haha.

Id sell it and get a GTT. GT-Vs have more value than the standard n/a and gtt r34s, so you could get decent cash for it and buy a gtt with money to spare. Best and most logical option in terms of finance. Ive seen a few gt-vs go for 15k, while the gtts sell for 11k. Then again i also understand the car enthusiast aspect of it: considering its your first car, all them memories, being unable to part with it at times, having a fun project build to pass the time, etc.... End of the day its your pride and joy, so logic gets thrown out the window

Hey guyzzzzzzzzzzzz Was wanting some low end response from my evo, (to gain some better initial acceleration from a stop), was thinking of cosworth 264 camshafts and tomei valve springs... Initially i had planned on doing fuel pump and injector upgrade for an e85 tune, but thought of doing cams first so i can get more out of the tune. Ive also been told that ill get more response out of the car by switching to e85. Thinking whether to just dump the whole camshafts/valve springs idea and save a few pennies and just get the e85 tune, or to go for the camshafts as well. Anyone got any suggestions on how i go about this? Currently running 180awkw @21psi on 98 octane stock turbo tuned for response. Current mods: - turbo back exhaust - bigger intake pipe between maf and turbo - HKS panel - Tune I dont really plan on going hard out on the top end power, that would just be a bonus, im really keen for some good response and decent gains along the rev range(especially low to mid). Cheers (:

awww no thats no good Will keep an eye out

Exactly this! Also was told a similar problem with the walbro fuel pumps, needed a fuse and relay, since draws too much voltage. Costs like 100 bucks to get it done professionally, or like 20 bucks if you do it yourself.

As stated above, stock ecu and stock injectors, I think you would need some sort of engineering certificate when trying to register a turbo charged car as a non turbo? Emissions testing, exhaust pollution and all that kinda jazz? Im just guessing here...

Depends what is defined as normal, and the situation you are in... If i were to have just one car and leave the track/spirited driving scene, id still want something zippy yet pleasant to drive. e.g.: - xr6/g6e turbo - Golf GTI - Mitsubishi ralliart - TRD aurion - BMW 135i hatch It would be nice to have some power there when i need it. On the other hand, a small corolla for a daily, and a beast parked in the garage for the weekend is also a pretty viable option. However, Just because you dedicated one car for the weekend and one for the daily, doesnt mean you have to follow it like its the law. There would be those one off weekdays where id drive the performance car over the daily But its understandable that some people dont have the luxury to maintain two cars, let alone pay insurance and rego every year. In which case, the first option would be better.

Will do! Thanks man Penrite Racing 10? 10w40? or 15w50?

^ wow just saw this now! Too late though, got it installed Update: So got the gauges installed, monitored both the temps and oil pressure, basically under normal driving the oil pressure idles at 14 psi while the temps remain below 80 degrees Celsius. However, Under some spirited driving, and heating 22psi of boost, the temps lie between 80 to 90 degrees celcius, sometimes a little higher (didnt push it too far), and the oil pressure on idle drops to about 10PSI, at which point the OEM factory oil pressure light starts to flicker. So basically when the oil is below 11psi on idle, the oil pressure sender light starts to flicker. After driving normal again, temps drop all the way to 79-80 degrees celcius, and oil pressure once again idles at 14psi, with no oil pressure light. So i narrowed it down to two options: 1. bigger oil cooler - i think the temps affect the viscosity of the oil 2. Just chuck in thicker oil? (10w-40 or 15w-50) Is it a good idea to use 50weight for daily driving as well? Thanks for all you help btw, helped me a lot so far

Umm i used them as a reference, most of the autometer ones werent for sale, they only had the transmission oil temperature gauges for sale But they were so much cheaper than bloody autobarn! Saving 150 dollars buy using egauges. But yea i rang up a few people, auto electricians and mechanics and tuners, none of them could install them. Most auto electricians focus on generic stuff like central locking, immobilizers etc... Anyways, ended up calling revzone, who i thought solely specialized in tuning and mechanics, but do gauges as well! Minimum 60 dollars to install per gauge (for an evo) so decided to go with them. Its funny cause they were my go to mechanics for everything, but for some reason assumed they didnt do gauges Hey mate, yea i thought it would be, but the oil pressure sender is located behind the engine block under the intake, right above the transfer case, its almost impossible to get too without removing strubrace, intake manifold, a whole bunch of vaccum lines etc.... So thought it'd be better to leave it to an expert.

Oh one more question, does anyone know a good place to get my oil pressure, and oil temperature gauges installed? I would do it myself but it looks way more complicated than my boost gauge =/

Umm yea most evos idle around 800-1000 pretty sure. They have a very wide rpm range, rev up to 7600ish from factory. But yea man will do! Cheers

A bloke on here used to have a 500rwkw r33 gtst, he said it was fun to drive(when it could be tamed), however on the track, every corner he would be going sideways cause there wasnt any real traction when unleashing 500rwkw, stock cars would actually be on his ass during the bends haha. Before selling he switched back to stock and actually found it much more fun to drive(still running much more power than stock), since he had more response, and he could full throttle without the fear of stacking. Anyways, reason i told you that was because you said you want to get a feel for skylines before getting a gtr, you'd probably enjoy just building the car for response, tweak the suspension, racing seats, etc.... rather than building a 600hp beast which will need a whole load of $$ to get it reliably making power on 98. 600hp would be more fun in a GTR than a Gtst (dont get me wrong, still fun in a GTST ).

Yea they do man, ill look into it further, because my mates evo 7 doesnt seem to have this kind of problem, exact same car. Im also thinking the idle is too low? should be idling at 1000 not 600rpm, maybe thats why it loses pressure on idle.

Yea gave it a boot, still too thin ==' will definitely go 50 weight now, might also be cause its quite hot weather.

OH and also, thinking of going e85? 400 Lph walbro fuel pump and 1000cc injectors is on the list for e85 compatibility, but was wondering if i should get cams done as well before tuning for e85? Ive heard that its better to get cam gears and valve springs as well, but thats where it goes a little out of budget for me.... opinions?