Thunderbolt

For the Apexi Commander to read boost, you would need the additional boost control kit that comes with the Power FC. However most people run a seperate boost controller, be it a electric, or a mechanical (such as Turbotech). There's no shortage of information on mechanical Vs electric boost controllers. I am happy with my turbotech / PFC combo on my 180sx.

Yes there may be reasons why advance driver training should not be implemented, but there is no reason why defensive driver training should not be made compulsary. There is a difference. One teaches you how to recognise dangers and help get you out of car crashes (defesensive driver training) and one helps you control the car in extreme conditions (advance driver training).

^^^ Buy them from http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/dealers.htm

I agree. Probably best to have hard suspension at the rear, so it dosen't dip down too much and throw the camber out of whack. Soft suspension would be useful up front though, to get good weight transfer happening.

Nice writeup, but damn 116 km/h is fast in a 60 zone. Those sorts of speeds should be reserved for highways and good rural roads alone.

R33 is 16x6.5" + 40 Z32 is 16x7.5" + 45 In other words, you are going to want to make sure that you have plenty of room on the inside of the wheels, so it dosen't foul suspension bits. However you could use spacers. 7.5" should be able to fit up to 245.

Usually fitting the widest possible tyre to the rim will give you good traction. You know how some people stretch 225s over 9" rims. Well you want to do the opposite basically. The sidewalls will flex more and the contact patch will be better to begin with too. This is probably the reason why evil_weevil was getting good 60 foots, because of the fact that 225s are wide for a 6.5" rim.

RDA909 is the base part number. From memory, I think you might add an SL for slotted. Anyway the shop you order them from should know what you are talking about if you say you want RDA909 slotted. Should be somewhere around $170-$200 for the pair.

It was done on shootout mode. Should be fairly acurate. My guess is that the blue line is stock boost, and the green line is considerably higher than stock boost. Was probably tuned on high-boost because if the temptation was there to raise the boost, then you wouldn't need a retune.

What about the lines at the bottom of the graph? Torque should not keep going up, should flatten out while the power keeps rising, which is what those ones at the bottom do.

What is the difference between the blue line and the green line? What does the blue line represent? Is that your car 100% stock or something?

FYI - I had my alternator overhauled recently (for 180sx) including new brushes, bearings and servicing and a repair to a burnt connection (which was causing no charge to battery - PFC was reading as low as 11volts at one stage). Lets just say it cost about half of the price you mentioned. BTW: With these problems, I had few driveability issues, although I was babying it around a bit. The Walbro was making different humming noises than usual, but otherwise no unusual noises or other such problems.

^^^ That is low, and would normally show signs of a stuffed alternator, but: - That sort of voltage is the normal voltage you should get when starting up with just the battery and no alternator. So would tend to say to me that your alternator has been working previously unless you had the battery on charge. - Your battery light would normally come on if the alternator is not charging the battery. I suspect your sound system must be using too many resources. Don't know much about sound systems, so some audio fellows may need to help you out on this. Just a sidenote: Could be that your battery is on the way out. Dosen't normally take too much to start the car, however you could notice it like you have when you are asking a lot of it at the same time.

The 100mm rule would be in effect, to prevent you from bottoming out over every dip and bump in the road. Bottoming out can be dangerous, as in extreme circumstances it could cause one or more tyres to lose contact with the road, hense the potential to lose control. 100mm would be the figure decided on, that would prevent you from bottoming out on anything other than the most extreme conditions. By the way, I have seen plenty of stock cars scrape on some driveways.

Chin up mate. Hope the thiefs get what's coming to them. Also hope that luck runs your way in the near future.

Remember if you keep an eye on this you may even see him: http://nuerburgring.de/fileadmin/webcam/webcam.jpg

What you need to do is go for a drive in a few stock ones, and then compare. Thereby, if one car feels considerably better to drive, then get that one.

^^^ Looks like you have it installed the wrong way around.

More importantly, did you remember to disconnect your standard boost solenoid? If not, then this is very important.

1) It's not a bleed valve, it is a mechanical controller. 2) The boost source comes from the bottom of the controller (ie opposite the adjuster), and the other line goes to the wastegate acuator.

What fuel pump you got? Could be running lean.

Looks pretty laggy. How does it feel on the road?

The problem with USA plates, is that it limits you to two numbers and 3 letters. If you have personalised plates with three letters and numbers, then you need to have tradional size.

Sizes and offset?

What happens on a tradional bleeder or stock setup, is that the wastegate actuator sees a signal all the time so may trigger the wastegate to start opening early. Now what this controller does, is stop the signal from getting through to the acuator until it reaches a set point. Because the actuator dosen't get a signal, it leaves the wastegate firmly shut until the actuator sees a signal at which time it triggers the wastegate to open fully. Hense the super fast spool up. This is a similar concept to what some EBCs can be setup to do, but dosen't have the high price tag to go with it.