Thunderbolt

I failed first go. However I have since driven more than 10 years with not a single prang. But the story on ACA the other night proves that you can get your license first go even with serious offenses, such as this chick that was going over the speed limit on one or two ocassions on the test. She even admitted that she shouldn't have been given her license.

Any ideas when the next come and try will be? Still keen to come out, but a lack of funds and some car work needed prevented me from attending this one.

^^^ Maybe right, but I have seen some 180sx's / Silvia's with the NICS version engine. That would be different right?

Yer saw that. From what I could see, it looked pretty stock, cept for some spoked wheels and black bonnet. RIP to the girl.

^^^^ Just about all tyres are noisy buggers. When you are fairly close to a major road, the first thing you notice is the tyre noise. After a few hundred metres you tend not to notice the engine / exhaust noise, but the tyre noise always carries a long distance. As for ticking, I would be inclinded to think that there was a nail or screw in the tyre. Sometimes they are hard to see too, and you sometimes need to take the wheel off the car to easily tell where the nail / screw is.

Well you have to understand that the main reason shootout mode exists is to make results more comparable between different dynos. Not saying that there can't be variances, but there is limited scope to purposely fudge the figures. One of the few things that you can do to play with the results, is with regard to the intake temp - puting the sensor somewhere that it shouldn't be etc.

But it's not 13.5 as it clearly dips below it. I'd say it probably is somewhere around the 12 mark in the top end. The dyno dosen't look like it has been done in shootout mode. Therefore the figures could be somewhat unreliable. I know you say that it has been re-calibrated, but that could mean that they made it read higher than it should. How does the car feel on the road? does it feel like you have 150? Dynos are simply a tuning tool, that's it. If you want to brag to your friends about power then you need to take it to the real dyno which is the strip.

Nice SUV. What is the width and offset?

Check out this link: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=154724

Alternatively you could spend just $10 and put it on a site such as carsales.com.au Guaranteed to give far more exposure than NissanSilvia.com ever will.

Wow what a beautiful car. I'd love to do some wikid things with that thing. Bored / Stroked L28 would be my guess. All the better for seriously awesome induction sounds.

What event were those photos taken from? Looks like an awesome bit of road, just a shame those tyres are there.

Maybe 1 or 2 psi would not make much of a difference but I can tell you for a fact that it pressure can make a decent difference. My daily driver Pulsar was running 26psi all round at one stage (bit low), and I pumped it up to 36psi front and 32psi rear. The difference in turn-in and handling in gereneral is like the difference between night and day. As for whether this could cause the problems described. Well it's hard to say. It is possible that an overinflated tyre will only contact the road directly in the middle of the tyre. The lower pressure will also help the sidewalls flex more, hense maximising the road contact. May sound stupid, but it may be worth first checking that the wheels are rotating in the correct direction, as these tyres are directional.

I've got a cold air feed to my pod, which hasn't been partitioned off or boxed. On the dyno, IT is showing almost the same as AT and in one case, even lower.

Yes I have RDA R33 rotors on my 180sx, along with Ferrodo pads and braided lines. Got to say that I have absolutely no problems pulling it up, and fade would be next to bugger all in everything but the most demanding situations.

S15 will get you off the line if he stalls it up a bit. Your car will probably come back in the deep end though, and could very well have him by the end of the quarter.

Rears should have lower pressure than the fronts as there is less weight on the back of the car. Just lower the rear pressure till it's about 4psi less than the front and go from there.

Years ago I went there. Very quickly explain what happened. Went in with a little under a quarter of a tank fuel, picked it up with the fuel right on empty. Wasn't booked on the Dyno, so what happened? Then they advised me on getting some standard spec rear pads to replace the "endless" ones that I had despite my sceptism, then coming down cootha one night and stopping at a set of traffic lights on Milton Rd, the new pads were smoking them up big time. Also got a quoted price on some work, and when I got back to pay it came in over quote without being told prior, but I couldn't remember the exact quote (just roughly) and couldn't find it anywhere.

If it dosen't rub the brake in a straight line, then it shouldn't rub when you turn because the whole hub assembly moves (inc brakes) in line with the wheel.

There is another way. Try grinding away the letters (Nissan) on the calipers, it may just provide you with enough clearance without using spacers.

Looks interesting, that's for sure. That number plate should be on a 180sx (RPS13) not a Silvia (RS13).

^^^ That would be the one, because I have seen the car at the hillclimbs too. He tells everyone that they are N1 turboes, but who knows if they really are or not.

So I take it "IT" on the dyno graph represents intake temp? If so, then I have a graph which shows 30deg air temp and 28deg intake temp. Work that one out. I think they measured it from the air filter, does this sound right?

Maybe I'll do the come and try day, even though I am certain that I might be hillclimbing more in the future.

May be hard to get a power reading in 4th in a stock car. You could quite possible hit the 180km/h speed limiter before max power, so if this is the case then it is pretty pointless.