cameron

You need to be able to change the gears with out shutting the throttle... eg Flatchange! And inless you want things to break I surgest not doing that inless you have a ecu that will allow you to do it also... Or buy an auto! Other than that you proberly have a fuel issue; tuning/supply

HKS car only ran 30psi of boost doesnt reece run 45psi? Will be interesting! By looking at thoes photos the engine has deffiently been out and had a refresh the valve covers have new paint!

Ouch! Now you need a rebuild from all the detonation on the piston's Maybe it had little amounts of water in it? I would recomend change fuel filter its probly clogged with crap!

2nd one I've seen play up... The valve c*cks sideways and gets jamed open = leak... You should be able to close and you will hear it pop back into its place. It will work perfectly intil it gets jamed again. Yeah as other said change plugs, because when the BOV is leaking its the same as intercooler pipe blown off and AFM reads all this Air coming in but its not actually getting into the engine... rich rich mixtures.

I've had a RB25 at 9000rpm ovbiously with forged rods and pistons, upgrade cams and springs... but stock crank and new nissan bearings Was still makin 450rwhp... But we toned it down to 8000rpm.

If you havnt already, try setting the cam gears back to 0. Intil you can get it tuned.

Vacuume leak, Tuning what ecu?

No need for porting, RB25 Head with step 1 cams and lots boost will make more power than your after.

OLD THREAD!!!

I've recoreded and controlled over 2bar with the avc-r which uses the same solonoid and map sensor? On a external gate with 17psi spring Altho with the avc-r the duty cycle is adjustable via rpm. looks like it getting boost spike and its cutting it, try the lower duty cycle

Hicas lock bar is your friend.

Woop, Another one that does the same, unsolved mistery! This is the 4th R33 that has this problem... We have just about tried everything from dumping the exhaust to getting a new hks turbo! still boost creep at 5000rpm... Same thing with the wastegate flap fully open, makes 15 or so psi! Oh with the flap fully open it will make some boost should be a max of 7psi at around 7000rpm... but 14 and more aint normal.

I've seen this on 3 of thoes manifolds aswel, I surpose you get what you pay for!

Cubes its running a power FC not a standard ECU hence no R&R I've seen 400rwhp on stock afm aswel, but it had a chiped standard ecu and afrs were fine. Altho we upgraded it to a Q45 and PFC and it made 440rwhp much better curve through mid range were the "stock one would of been maxed" Theirs ways of bending the afm curve, but thats a ruff fix at its best. Go for the upgrade...

No turbine wheel? What engine?

Wheel spin usally happens at max torque point which is well before it starts to loose power, but looking at the mph and the power they deffiently dont match. Could be a tuning issue possibly a who in the ign map?, also try bringing the intake back to 0deg and leave the ex at -3. If none of that works then you have a restriction somwere maybe start with basics, exhaust system? altho in saying that it does hold boost well you just need to turn the F/B Speed down or even turn it off to fix the mountain like boost curve...

What boost do you get when running just actuator? If the wastegate flap is hard up against the back of the turbo and the arm has to be streched a little bit to hook on than thats were you want it, and thats the fastest the turbo will spool, making it tighter again will give you more boost.

Yes it is to adjust the tension on the wastegate flap... If you extend the rod longer it will open the flap a little or depening on how much you go and it will be very slow to make boost... If you wind the rod in past the point were its got more tension on the wastegate flap holding it closed for longer as the RPM comes up, results in higher boost level. So the best spot is usally hold the flap closed with your hand adjusted the rod so you have to only pull it a little bit so it holds firm tension on the wastegate arm... Than using a boost controller to adjust for more boost. Hope that helps.

No highflow factory turbo should make full boost by 5000rpm, the only time i have seen that is when the wastegate flap was not fully closed as other's have mentioned wastegate preload... You would think that alomost ever turbo would have to ware in a little bit but not enough to cause that sort of lag??? Are these turbos ball bearing?

Tell us more, By the sounds its white - oil smoke. Does the car missfire, still make boost, run like crap? Can you see any ovbious leaks around the turbo/manifold area or is there any unusal sounds coming from the turbo? Maybe try pulling out a spark plug, to see if any cylinders have oil in them...

Im not sure if the RB20 is hydraulic or solid? If hydraulic you have to pull them out and either get new one/ones or let them sit in bucket of oil for a day or 2 - no garantee to fixing them either!

What your version of lag? What rpm is it making its highest boost level?

What BOV do you have? Turbo wont be broken if its steel wheel.

HKS T51r KAI BB

Factory Rev limiter is at 7000rpm not above. As others said re-gap plugs to .75