cameron

Have you tried a different boost controller ? I've seen some trouble's with certain EBC and wastegates. - Have you got the bigger spring in the wastegate ? (I'm sure you do) The wastegate might be too big, and bleeding too much air out when it opens, Airflow in lbs per minute = diameter of wastegate in mm X boost correction factor - I think thats the formula for the wastegate size. Im sure SK can further explain. Nice power their from the 2835, are you going to keep it or put the 3040 back on ? Jun

Can someone explain to me why -Joel's- dyno graphs are different in the way that the power curve is. The second graph seems to shoot up faster than the first ? -Joel- were these runs done in 2 different gears, first run being 3rd a second run being 4th ? :confused: - Or are these 2 differnt engines ?

You mose will use it, you'll have to wire it into your ecu harness. And to use this you'll have to disable the boost controller option (PFC) under ETC menu, with it on it will use the power fc solinoid. But if you can sell the blitz and buy the Apexi boost control solinoid i'm sure it will work best with the PFC. JUN

Lol yeh the wastegate doesnt flutter its the pressure going back through the Compressor fins. Puts a little bit of stress on them & can cause a bit of lag during gear changes.

I don't think a bov will cause a rich mixture more to do with the ecu, or aftermarket fuel pump. - SAFC ll will fix this problem. I would recomend HKS SSQV as their easy to install in the standard spot and hold boost (no leaking) sound pretty good - If you like the high pitch pshhht then its the way to go. other then that i have seen GFB on skylines, Turbosmart ones etc. From what i've herd the blitz bov leaks. :uhh: Jun

I'd get a frontmount intercooler to keep the inlet temps down so when you run higher boost you arent at more risk of damaging your engine. After that i'd go Power FC its plug & play and user friendly. Wolf 3D are plug and play aswel but you ca get pfc & h/c for $1150 atm. Then get it tuned properly. Jun

You'll need a full rebuild if you want a reliable engine. Forged pistons, bearings, Rods & crank Head: Camshafts, valve's, valve springs, lifters cam gears etc. You can buy a stroker Kit 2.7 or 2.8ltr or a 3ltr Os Giken Block Turbo upgrade, Big single (T88) or twin 2835's ? Fuel pump you'll need twin bosch 044's serge tank Injectors, Fuel rail, regulators Intercooler (big one) Ecu, boost controller etc. (Power FC, Motech, Mictrotech) AFM's or you can get a ecu that doesnt use afm's etc. And a lot of money & time. www.exvitermini.com try looking at some of thoes pics to give you idea's (GTR700) Jun

Could be fuel cut/Overboost protection ? Try doing a search, or describe your problem in more detail.

I've noticed that when the HKS SSQV bov is tighten fully. When under full boost if you let the accelerator off slowly it doesnt go off (goes back through turbo) but if you let the accelerator off fast it will. Its queit handy, If you see the cops at the last minute. As Jimbo2000 said it does flutter fully tighten at low rpm when turbo is making boost.

Somtimes the BOV does flutter if the screw is loose (HKS SSQV) and this is fine, but if its tight and its fluttering thats the pressure going back through the turbo which is not good for it after a while. other than that

bud

according to this http://www.atpelectronics.co.uk/Catalogue/...i%20Fuel%20Pump Its a pump for a non turbo application :confused:

Could be a number of things, Spark Plugs - Gap them to .7 Coil Packs - Need to tape them up with electrical tape because the spark is arking out the side. As shif_tea said it could be a fuel problem and dumping too much fuel in - SAFC II will fix this. AirFlow Meter, A Faulty wire or dirty connection can cause a missfire/hesitation's The list goes on. Take it to a mechanic and get them too look at it, But if you want to try and fix it your self start with the spark plugs & coil packs. Jun

Yes i can dammage it. The more boost you run the hotter the exhaust wheel gets and the stock turbo exhaust wheel can only resist a certain amount of heat before it ends up into your cat. AVC-R is a very good boost controler, Its not hard to use once you get the generel idea, I havn't used the HKS evc myself but i've herd they are good aswel. :wavey: Jun

Twin Dellorto SideDraft Carbie. 45mm with redline manifold, To suite 2ltr escort. Just been kitted and acid diped. - Like brand new! $900ono Pics will be up soon. Cam

well done sounds nice! Are you going to be taking it down the quater mile ? I'd be interested to see how it performs.

Other wise it would be pointless buying the avc-r If you save some more you'll have a power FC. :wavey:

Not that i know of with the H/C, But you might be able to with the laptop software. Jun

Yep all should be fine, Im not to sure that you can get 80mm bore size forged pistons, Check with stick. Hope it goes well, Jun

http://www.rs-competition.ru/apexi/ Get it tuned on a dyno to monitor the A/F ratio's and get them around 12.5 under full boost.

Its exactly the same solinoid, Just the avc-r has extra functions that you carnt access on the Power FC ecu. Eg: Start Duty, F/B Speed, Learn Gear, RPM based Boost etc. The power fc will only let you control boost pressure and not use any of thoes other functions. - So if you just want to control boost buy the solinoid (If you have pfc) but if you want to play with the extra functions go the avc-r. Jun

Yep that is also an option to keep the fuel under control. Just your ignition timing will be standard intil you can afford an aftermarket ecu. So yes a safc will do fine. - Just you need to get it tuned correctly on a dyno to get the a/f ratios in the safe zone. As you said you only want to get the car running, but if your after power later on a aftermarket ecu will be the way to go. Jun

Yes you will need to upgrade Fuel pump and Injectors if your going to run over 14 psi. (dont want to lean out your new bottom end) VG30's can handel upto 18psi - Apparently. And if your running bigger injcetors you'll most likley need it tuned so a power FC ecu would be good to keep things running sweet, Also a airflow meter will also need to be upgraded for better tuning resolution. Jun

I didnt say they were weak. I'm not a 100% sure but forged RB26 rods & Pistons dont fit on a RB20 crank due to stroke length and clearence. They proberly can fit but it will need modifying to the engine block for valve clearace. The smallest RB20 pistons i can find are 82mm - expensive, But the rest that are for RB26 are 86 & 87mm bore size. If you get your block bored out too much it will weaken it. Have a chat to stick and he'll let you know prices and that. Jun

How did it go make any difference ? Basically you said you were loosing power, this could because of your timing by advancing it you should gain power. - But advancing it with lots of boost is a silly idea correct. - I can cause detination. Also the standard ecu retards the ignition timing on hot days to stop detination so that may also be why you are loosing power. - Cooling system eg front mount intercooler if you dont have one this would be the first step I'd take. Its alot easier to buy a apexi power FC ecu and tune the timing via that. More economical and you can moniter detination via the hand controler. Its upto you, In my opinion i'd just leave it and do the basic modifications eg: exhaust, pod, dump pipe, intercooler and 11 psi boost. This way you will gain power and keep everything safe, inlet temps etc. - If you already havn't Jun