cameron

It should have come with the bov when you ordred it, If it was brand new. They usally bolt straight on to were the standard one goes.

Nup, I've done it with everthing attatched eg gear box and turbo and manifolds still attatched. Just have to reach around (with great difficulty) and try to take it off. Might have to take hoses from the top of the engine off to get to it. Jun

Go for a ride in a GTR and then a WRX. Ones got both the advatage of both rear wheel drive and front wheel drive and the rexy is locked 4wd You can disconect your gtr to make it rwd which can be handy for what ever reason . - Take out front drive shaft (5min + 4bolts) Jun

Ditto

Really ? :confused: 7 CR the car would be a slug.... I thought putting forged pistons in gave you higher compression, it has 87mm bore size arias. - So i herd on these forums Hope your RB30DET build goes well ! Jun

Hey B-Man The upgrades you can do to a desiel will give you different power gain too a petrol engine. (Petrol will give you more from intercooler, exhaust, boost etc.) Desil won't make much more power but it will make some. I'm not sure why it doesnt make as much from the same modifications but might have somthing to do with the way desiel ignites via air compression not spark like fuel Should be same as petrol eg: chiped ecu with more boost and trying to get a/f ratios correct etc. Jun

Maby i don't know, One of our r33's has arias forged pistons (rb26 ones) and it has lots compression even with 1.8mm head gasket. Jun

Welcome to SAU, Nothing you can buy for imports is going to be cheap so keep that im mind. First i'd start with the basic Pod filters, exhaust, front mount intercooler, I wouldn't touch the boost just yet as you want to have your car breathing and having cold air going into your engine. Cold air: Nice horsepower gain, keeps engine safe and will run alot better. - eg front mount intercooler, pod filter and exhaust. Hot air: Lose horsepower, enigne is at risk of being dammaged and melting pistons but this wont dammaged the engine too much on stock boost eg: 7 psi but if you up the boost pressure on stock intercooler, exhaust etc your just asking for trouble. By upping the boost you are forcing more air into your engine and having a stock intercooler & exhaust you are going to choke your engine and its going to run very hot which can also cause turbo dammage as the exhaust gasses are even hotter with out aftermarket frontmount intercooler and you will get back pressure with the standard exhaust & dump pipe. If you want your car to last get a front mount, exhaust and pod filter with CAI pipe before you go turning the boost up. On the good side once you do your exhaust and dump pipe your boost will rise about 3 psi, so you wont really need to touch it. You mentioned the stock boost guage. This is measured in mmhg not psi so on your guage it should be running about +4 at the moment ? which means stock boost 7 - 8 psi but +7 on the guage means 14.7 psi. It would be more safer to have an aftermarket boost guage so you can watch your boost in psi and make sure it doesnt spike too badly. - Cheap ones go for around $80 You can pick up a Turbosmart manual bleed valve for around $90 these are fairly good but tend to spike under load in higher gears. Their are other cheap modifications that can be done such as the rubber intake pipe from your pod/air box to your turbo, this will contract under boost so by making it metal will help with air flow. you can get this made up at your local exhaust shop Happy modding :wavey: Hope that helps, Jun

Theirs lots of potential out their. Just a couple off the top of my head, OBHVE R33 - 386rwkw's 518hp JMS R33 - 448rwkw's 601hp Twin turbo RB25 Silvia - 355kw's A fair few guys on here have 300kw + GTS-T With RB25's in them some with aftermarket internals some with standard internals. Im sure theirs more powerful RB25 engines than above that havn't been seen to the public. It also comes down to $$$ aswel But at the end of the day horsepower figures will only tell the truth on the 1/4 mile. Jun

Why would you get non turbo pistons for a turbo engine :confused: If you want to raise compression just keep standard head gasket size (new one) or get thinner one.

It is very nice, but if you got the money to do it, its not that hard

All GTR's have ATTESA E-TS, 4 wheel drive system consisting of a variable electronic torque-split transfer mechanism. This directs torque to the front drivetrain through a multiplate clutch. The clamping force on the clutch can varie between 0-50% dependant on wheelspin sensors that measure slip in the rear wheels. GTR is basically rwd intil you accelerate hard and the ecu signals the front wheels kick in.

Maby, I wouldnt think being to advanced would stop the car from being started, It would most likley cause detination & bad idle being advanced to much. But you never know could be anything. how is it going FR33ZE did you get it working ? Jun

Why on earth would you have an extra injector ? - Cold fuel helps engine performance, Engine is leaning out, One injector might be cloged or broken. :confused: Sure its not a NOS solinoid ? You can use adjustable cam gears to help bring on boost earlier. Other than that sounds like a R34 GTT turbo to me. What are the numbers on the compressor housing ? If you have any pictures that would be great if you need identification. Jun

That looks Sweet, whats under the bonnet !!! :headbang:

As BBQ said its safe to drive. But this can cause fowling of your spark plugs and a very expensive fuel bill !!! I explained that up above, Going into settings than ing/inj setting than taking fuel from the inj correction function. Dont take too much out that the car leans out. Watch your knock level's under monitor menu. - This setting takes the amount that you pull or add eg 2 % it takes that from the whole inj map (But you'll have to do it evertime you start the car) Its a lot easier than taking fuel out of the fuel map, I wouldnt recomend doing it inless you have a wideband o/2 sensor, or put it on a dyno and monitor a/f ratios, plus this can take some time with the hand controller. Their's another way of leaning out the fuel mixture but not using the power fc. You have to add negative pressure to the vacume line that goes from your fuel rail pressure regulator to the intake plenum. hope that helps, Jun

It could be a number of things. check to see if your fuel system is working. Wiring, ignition system, spark plugs, coil packs, Air flow meter etc. Give more detail on whats happening

Sh!te thats very good power for a RB20 i'd be happy with it, The more boost you run the more air is being forced into the enigne which means more exhaust gasses. The HKS 2530 turbo is good for about 250kw's maby more on a RB25. so maby your top end power you are refering too maby somthing else not the turbo. The mid range power has increased and some with the top end aswel. mid range is about 25kw's more and top end is about 15kw's more - Which is good. Are you still running standard fuel pump and injectors ? - They'll need upgrading soon aswel. Your leaning out spike(little one) isn't too much of a worrie as were it goes up you dont have much speed and rpm up their. For daily driving on hot days dont thrash it on too high of a boost level but at night when its cold high boost (1.4bar) should be fine. Other than that its a nice smooth power curve. Jun

"I know its an old thread" But, Is it still for sale ? & What are the mesaurements of this bend (Diameter) both ends. Cameron

Have a look in the forsale section to get some idea's. I'd say 500 - 800 each ? - Depending on condition. Jun

What ecu did you change to, From reading the dyno sheet name you changed the ecu and it seems the stock ecu started off lean (normal) and went richer but this went opposite :uhh:

Take a read at this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=47677

Have you got aftermarket injectors, or are you using the standard ones.

Thats awsome

The Power fc's come out from the factory tuned rich. But what your describing sounds like someones played with it before hand.... Start the car up, goto SETTINGS menu then ing/inj setting then pull some fuel from it and see if it fixes it a little. As this setting alows you to pull fuel from the whole map not individal points. And when you turn the car off and on again it will rest set this back to how it was before you changed it. Other wise get it tuned and see how it goes. hope that helps,