ferni

That looks like a series1 or 2 front lip... think they are very similar. Series 3 is a bit deeper/bigger.... Brand new from Nissan S1 lip is about 900, S3 lip is about 1300.... Yes just for the lip. If you want the original black look then you may have to fork out that kind of money. You would be better off just painting yours black. Honestly i think yours looks fine, maybe just buff the black marks off yours, or repaint it white. Original Lips are plastic and flexible and very expensive. Copies are usually fiberglass and the first time you hit them they will shatter Series 3 front lip on my car: http://ferni.net/photos/Cars/0605_RacingLi...ay/target7.html

So it looks like the correct FMSI for GTR Brembo's up front is D647. takspeed have this listed under their D960 shim. http://www.takspeed.com/tispeed/index.php?...;products_id=40 PDF of the shim D960 Shim attatched to scale, i checked it against a set of my pads and it looks right. Think i'm going to order a set of these. Hopefully get them before PIARC on 20th. brakeshim_D960.pdf

Read what Roy wrote, he knows more than me. I use DS2500 on street, i don't think much of them, they are ok. I use DS3000 on track, they are better for track, give a better bite. r33cruiser: Using slotted/drilled disc isn't the same thing, The slots don't really cool down much, they just release gasses etc.. help keep the pad clean. Removing the stone shield is going to allow WAY more air to flow into/around your disc and run much cooler. The stone shied heats up and keeps all that hot air in near the disc on the inside.

Yes it does... But what about the front of the disc, it doesn't have stone shields How often do you drive down a dirt road? It's all a compromise. Like hard suspension will put more strain on the chassis and give you a harsher ride.... but if you want to go fast.............

Actually Duncan i found I started having troubles when i went from Street tyres to R-Comps. I think it puts more strain on the brakes (but for shorter periods of time). Don't forget if you're cornering faster you're also hitting faster speeds on the straight hence having to pull off that extra speed before the next turn.... From the picture you posted, it looks like the pad is only using half the disc, how can it leave so much crap around the edge? It should be clean like the inside of the disc. Is the pad sitting flush with the disc all the way? Is the other side the same? Shudder is usually caused by the discs.... Either they need machining, or pad deposits need removing... Did you bed in the discs properly? Are you warming up the brakes properly on your warm up lap or are you just jumping on them straight away? You are going to struggle for brakes if you upgrade much more... but for 250rwkw and street tyres i think you should be able to get away with it. I don't think the issue is heat related. Heat would cause Pad fade, or boil your fluid (soft pedal)... if you're not getting this then heat isn't the issue (yet). I'd still remove the backing plates, fit braided lines and fit a master cyl stopper, because you'll need them anyway. Here is a link i read the other day that may be vaugly replated: http://www.zeckhausen.com/avoiding_brake_judder.htm Ohh and keep in mind, I'm no where near an expert..... so i could be completely wrong

What power? What tyres? What did the brakes feel like on the track? Was shuddering the only thing wrong?

Just measured brand new DS3000 pads for you. ~9mm of pad ~5mm of backing plate ~14mm of pad+backing plate You want to run thicker discs Brisby? Doesn't SK already do that?

I think it's going to end up costing about the same Richard. So we might be better of ordering from the states... but we can wait until tomorrow to see what Pete and Troy come up with...

Read the 2 links i posted Pete. It explains it a little. But you're the engineer, i'm just a computer geek.

Yep, but since shipping is $20, we'd only save $10 each, and then to ship from you to me would cost that. Plus i'm thinking i want them before PIARC on the 20th.

Did you order some richard?

HAHAHAH, wood! Pitty about the 'catching on fire temperature' part

Ok, I *think* the sumitmo calipers on the GTR take pads from FMSI D647 (same as 300zx?) And the Brembo Calipers on the GTR take pads from FMSI D639....

Some links explaining the thermo properties of Titanium vs Aluminum... but it's from the same site that's selling them. http://www.takspeed.com/shop/index.php?mai...1&chapter=1 And picture of front and back of shim after being used. http://www.takspeed.com/shop/index.php?mai...3&chapter=1

Pete (bass junky) said if you give him an original shim he can get them drawn and cut out and will do a group buy....

Good point. So what we want to do is shield the heat from the piston/caliper, keep it in the pad/disc since we can cool these down easier. Before you buy have you found out for sure they are the right size? I'd wait for Troy to weigh in. I've emailed him the link to this thread.

Ok thinking about these shims some more.... They are ment to block heat getting into the caliper/pistons and then into the fluid right? SO where does the heat go? It must stay in the pad/disc then right? Is this something we really want to do? Or am i missing something here?

Ok he's having trouble finding out... Sorry, but I am having no luck tracking down those Ferodo numbers. I am guessing that the brembos you mentioned could be the same ones we cover on the 350Z. We have good coverage on the more popular brembo calipers. Do you happen to have the Brembo caliper model or another manufacturer model # for the pad? Can anyone help?

They replied to me We don't have that exact model listed in our catalog. Do you have a pad part # from one of the major manufacturers or a FMSI # for the pad outline? That's the surest way to see if we have something that fits. If we don't have it we can put it in the production queue. We do ship to Australia via postal mail or UPS. So I gave them to Ferodo DS3000 part number i use. And they have said they will research and get back to me.

I'm sure Troy could draw them up and probably knows a place to laser cut them... That's if they are worth it. I emailed this place to see if they have them for GTR brembos.

I'm hardcore, i run no shims.

Very interesting. I'm also interested in something like that... I don't think troy runs any shims.... Troy come share your wisdom!

Yes, best to speak to a gearbox place tho Labour would be more than that. And once you're in there usually worth replacing syncros as well.

Exactly they are race cars with shells on them. Can't really compare. If other cars were allowed in, they would have to be same speed as the v8's it would get boring if 1 car was faster than the others all the time. Production car racing is what you guys want - see Duncan in his GTR

embrace changed his mind, these are still for sale