ferni

Broken again......

Ok, found this: http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/sbc-sub-parts.pdf Looks like the same part number is used between the Spec S and Spec R headunit (check the last page). the only thing different is the solinoid and wiring....

Does anyone know if the Blitz SBC Boost controller Spec R and Spec S headunits are the same? My Spec R headunit is a bit stuffed so want to know if i come across a Spec S headunit will it replace it? They look exactly the same as far as i can tell.... ?

Helps if you specify the car.... a 97 R33 GTR has a pull type a 97 R33 Gtst has a push type

From what I know the most common source of knock is - Too lean (not enough fuel) (also too much boost same catagory) - Too much timing - Too much heat causing pre-ignition (similar to crap fuel) These 3 things is what I'd be looking at - all have been suggested already. Heat is easy to rule out if it does it when its not hot (80-90 water temp) then its not heat... Timing and fuel you can take out temporarily across the whole range to test.

So Blitz insulted me and wanted to sell me a control unit replacement only for $400. ..|.. So i'm getting my unit back and will see if i can get it fixed, anyone know anyone who can fix things like that?

My mate has an S2000 and it has a electronic odo. He has had it wound back a couple of times.. takes it out gives it to his mate and his mate does some stuff with it reprograms the chip that holds the odo reading probably?

Tell me about it It actually works fine on the setting its stuck on. Which is the 2nd highest setting and the one i used most common, the only other one i used was the next on up with ran with the number '68' which ran a touch more boost... I'm tempted to just stick it back in and forget about it... If i really want to run a bit more boost i could just bleed some off... ?

As others said, just stick a camber kit on to reduce it a bit.... try something like -2 in the front and -1.5 in the rear with no toe... or maybe a couple of mm toe in on the rear...

What Troy said .... Do it the cheap way and you'll pay for it in tyres ....

So this is a long shot but worth a try. My 2 month old Blitz Spec R Boost Controller fried itself... it got stuck on a setting, still holds boost, still lights up but i can't adjust anything... Sent it back to nengun who sent it back to blitz who said 'thanks for your money but to bad, must of been your car that did it' Great customer service hey... They won't fix it or replace it... so by fluke chance i'm hoping someone on here has a control unit they want to sell me.... Really don't want to fork out another $500 for a new controller..... any suggestions welcome Edit: For anyone who is interested it is stuck on the setting '62' which was running about 1.3 bar or so on my car... if you're interested in buying it stuck on that setting i can get a brand new one, and sell you the solinoid with the stuck monitor for cheap.............

And there is light!! 7:30am there, so guessing cars should start rocking up soon

boring, stupid time difference....

Normally the starter only makes noise while your starting the car, not for a few seconds after, if its after you start the car i'd still think its a belt of some kind......

Whats your knock level on your hand controller? but yes its probably pinging, so go get it tuned.

Sounds like your clutch didn't disengage properly?? Did it feel the same as if you hadn't pushed the clutch at all?

The bulb in the hazard light bit is about half the size of the one used in the Climate control units, but that same one from the climate control still fit.

Ok looks like its just hte 1 bulb in the power window part - the AUTO one which mine lights up... the other 2 don't look like they have bulbs?

You'd be lucky to land a set of Original R33 GTR Xenons for under 2k.... And all the ones i've seen come with ballast and bulbs....

RB26 cams are the same between vspec and non vspec ...

Phillip Island? Sandown?

Are your tyres exactly the same size front and back?

intake leak... like a cooler pipe/hose leak.... or AFMs...

If its the input shaft bearings, i'm pretty sure you would hear it in 4th as well??? Even if it was something to do with the gears themselves and not the bearings, you'd still hear it in neutral without load, the load of turning the gears is enough to make a noise if somethings not right.... Out of interest - can you feel any vibration through your clutch pedal if you rest your foot on it while in neutral? Ok just listened to that video.... does sound kinda like a bearing rather than a gear, but i'm no expert and its hard to tell without hearing in person

30mins is quick to get the dash out, never mind the heater core, took me much longer than that, and i thought i did it quick The dash wasn't to hard, but getting the heaterbox in/out was a pain in the ass. Just get a new copper heater core from NATRAD... think its teh same as 300zx... just take your old one to your local natrad dealer and show them and they can sell you a new one, not expensive, can't remember the price, $100 or $150 maybe?