ferni

Its just a white plug, kinda long and thin maybe 6-7 cm... near the fuses drivers side knee...

yeah i can rename them to the correct extension, but its a pain in the ass because i can't just hit 'open' i have to save it, find the file, rename it and then open it.... i'll be suing you for RSI ash

So whats the deal with files like PDF's downloading with extentions ipb ?

I showed up for an hour or so around 1... but with only 6-7 people it was a bit boring...

Its also about the load on your engine, higher load = more wear and more fuel... If you ever feel your engine struggling at low RPM's (1-2k) then drop back a gear...

If the owner owes 10k and you want to buy the car for 20k, you get 2 cheques, 1 for 10k to the finance company directly and 1 to the owner for 10k .... He has to sort out a final payment amount with the finance company first, then you pay that, and you pay him....

Also your boost controller will have to do ALOT more work if you want it to hold 15 pounds boost above the actuator pressure... boost would be very unstable and spike up and down.. As paul said i've found driving around in a lower gear at higher revs with less load on the engine is better for fuel... i don't use 5th gear unless i'm cruising at 100... @60k 3/4th @80k 4th...

The yoko dealer down here was trying to tell me the 48's are faster and can go through more heat cycles than the RE55's... but of course they are going to say that.. All the guys down here run the RE55s and say they are a faster tyre than the 48's , but the 48's do have a better wear factor.... RE55's are much cheaper than 48s as well...

Traction tyres is in rowville (Melbourne) archie.... so probably from there or around there

You all need to make sure you've gapped your plugs down to about .8 (drop it to .7 or even .6 if you have to) if you're getting a miss fire on full boost....

If you didn't use a new one then this is what you get... if you did, then that sucks!

I think you car would be faster than that wouldn't it Aaron? Ztune has 500bhp, your car would have about 550 or so... Its running on street tyres, you run on semi comps... Handling, i dunno but your thing handles pretty god damn well... btw your 2nd link doesn't work

I don't have an english manual, but i may be able to help with questions you have?

I'll try - How do we know its the truth? I could say i paid 10k for my R33 GTR, just because i said it doesn't make it true.... - Maybe there is something wrong with the car and the dealers know it so they want to get rid of it... there are lots of other reasons... only one way to find out, buy it for 32k and see how you go, if its still going good in 12months and you're still happy with it, then you got a good deal

Whats wrong with < 0.8mm Pete? Try dropping the gap to about .6 - .7 mm, if that doesn't fix it then maybe look into some new coilpacks..... Also what sparkplugs do you use?

Hi FastCanuck, wrxhoon and blitz know what they are talking about. I can see where you are coming from though, you are hoping to pick up a car that would normally private sell for about 35k at a trade in price of about 25-28k.... It possible but you may be waiting a while since no one wants to let thier GTR go that cheap. You are right demand has dropped for the skylines in general, due to a lot of people importing them and then deciding they don't want them 6 months later so now the market is flooded... Unfortunatly you will have more of a chance of picking up a Lemon for that price than a good one... We've seen it with the R32 GTR's, lots of guys imported them under the 15 year rule, got them cheap and a lot of them ended up with a stuffed engine not long after they bought them. I think the best deal i've seen for an R33 GTR which is a nice/good one is the one that GTRgeoff picked up for about 30k... that got snapped up very quickly because it was that cheap and was in pretty good condition... If you hang out long enough you may find something close to what you're after, but don't expect it to be anytime soon... GoodLuck.

ummm if you remove the steering wheel and dont put it back on straight i think that will cause some shit with your HICAS..... that was one thing i was always worried about when removing mine, putting it back on straight. Maybe i'm wrong though Don't be a tight ass, go get an alignment - alignments aren't just for steering wheels going straight, theres other stuff to it as well

I'm sure you can get them from nissan new, as to how much not sure, I can tell you the same part on an R33 GTR (that lower lip) costs around 900-1300 new from nissan..... so don't expect the R34 GTR one to be cheap....

But Ash has a Rwd R31, would have to have a wicked fast 60ft time for that....

Didn't get an SMS either... maybe the numbers are just wrong?

Could be your tyre hitting your inner guard?

Who told you that you need to change the blow off valve ? Stock ones are pretty good... There's a GTR on here making over 600rwkw on stock GTR BOVs... the GTSt ones are pretty good as well... 300rwkw+ is possible on stock internals, but it won't last long.. either your mates are lying about having 300rwkw, or thier dyno is reading high, or thier engine is about to go bang very soon ... As i just mentioned, one dyno may say you have 300rwkw, another may say 250rwkw....

Will you sell shocks seperate?

I have a Series1 Lip i just took off my R33 GTR, its in average condition tho, what measurements do you want? They are around 900 new from nissan for just the lip if that helps

WHy not get a 2nd hand R33 Crank (if you can find one) then you don't need the crank collar?