ferni

i recon this might be a physical match............. go aussies!

http://www.soccerpulse.com/forum/index.php?showforum=166 Can get torrents for the games there.... need to register tho.

ahhh that warms my heart to hear pete.

Almost certain it can't be done without taking the gearbox out with it.....

Anyone who wants a 'whoop everyones arse at the track in a package car' this is it....

yeah thats a rip. 4 hours give or take an hour is all it should take.

wow didn't realise there were so many accidents around the ring on a daily basis!!

that will be fine. I've used it in my GTR for the past 2 years plus.... along with many other RB owners.

If you keep it stock, then you'll have a much better chance of not breaking something. A stock GTR thats look after would be pretty bullet proof. But as soon as you start tampering with things, ie uping the boost then your shortening its life. Just something you need to think of when making it go faster. Think of it this way, worst comes to worst and something big does go like the motor and you can't afford to fix it, you go buy a $500 bomb of a car and drive that until you can afford to fix your GTR (thats if its your daily driver...)

Don't think any skylines GTR or gts, gtst, gtt came with oil coolers. If you give your car a thrash on the street you'd struggle to get it over 100-110 deg oil temp, on the track you could get it much hotter. For street driving don't think you need an oil cooler, for track, you definatly should have one. Wouldn't belive what they write in HOT4's....

Have a look at this http://gtr.ferni.net/misc/skylinebook.pdf There is no listing for the ones unde the dash in the car (or maybe there is in jap, i can't remmeber)

In a straight line, an F1 would be faster without all that downforce........ until it took off like an aeroplane

You can't pull the fuse on the R34 GTR, that trick only works on the R32. You'll need to drop the front drive shaft to run it on a rwd dyno, doesn't take long, 10mins....

If you can get hte door open, it would be easy to fix just, pull the door trim off, 5mins, and look at it and figure out whats stopping it.

thats f**ked, they aren't worth waiting 3 hours for!

heres my quick input. Are you talking 400-480rwkw or crank kw? Don't forget the more power you want the bigger turbos you'll need = more lag.... BOV's, stock ones are fine - Leewahs car runs 600rwkw on stock BOV's. Spark, probably worry about that once you get over 350-400rwkw.... can probably leave it until it needs it, you'll know. power that things start breaking? tough one depends how hard you drive it, but at a guess around 350-400rwkw things would start to break.. those N1 turbos are probably good for around 500-600hp at the crank at a guess. Yep i'd get an oil cooler, keep those oil temps nice and low. Baffle kit/sump ext probably worth it. depends how much track work you'll be doing. bearings not sure about brands etc... but i belive it does make a difference... Head, thats up to you, I wouldn't stuff around with the flow of it, maybe have it cleaned up, as in pulled down replace anything that looks a bit worn etc... Most of us just run pulp (premium unleaded petrol - 98RON here, think you may have different ratings in the states), race gas you'll get a heap more timing/power out of, but since you're not into competition i would stick to pump gas. hope theres at least one thing here that helps

Whats the major way to reduce restriction so you can flow more air, run less boost and get more power? I understand that if you remove restirction the engine can breath easier so it doesn't need as much pressure to force the same amount of air into it. I'd guess CAMS are the first/biggest difference? What else can you do? ... sorry if this is a dumb question, i really don't know.

rev match it dude... will slide in easily then.

Tell them to put the house on ebay, some wackos will pay lots for it BECAUSE it is haunted, but of course they'd need proof rush says to put fridge magnets on the fridge with letters so you can see what the ghosts are trying to say, they can rearrange the letters to say things I say make friends with them (the ghosts)

Looks pretty good, how far does it come down against the bonnet? And where did you get it from/brand?

Yeah i love the game, but can't handle the acting when they fall, that shits me, taking a dive to get a free kick, unfortunatly thats part of the tactics of the game, and i can put up with that, but crying and holding your ankle then running around on it 2 mins later, thats farked, may as well start balling your eyes out to. Notice how they don't scream when they are holding thier ankle/leg? if it really hurt it they would be screaming, my mate had his leg broken about a month ago playing outdoor soccer, he screamed so loud it sent shivers down my spine.

Are you sure it is locking up? Does the front of your car dive under brakes? Maybe your front spring rates aren't high enough so all the weight is being transfered to the front of your car, leaving your rear end light and wanting to come around..... Just an idea, don't take my word for it......

The whole point of this thread is to say 0-100 times dont say how fast a car is, while that is technically correct, it still gives you some ideas.... to find out which car is quicker you would race them right? over a set distance.... say 1/4 mile? So the 1/4 mile drag is a better test to find out which car is faster....... over a quater mile

Not sure, maybe the front bar sits lower on your car? Or maybe the GTR has a bigger diam wheel/tyre - whats the stock tyre size on a GTT and a GTR and i can work it out for you.... Or ask Troy he'd probably know...

Ahh i see but we were talking about peek power so how fast it ramps up has nothing to do with peak power... but yeah you can adjust the gain on the blitz to make it ramp up a bit quicker, i would of though the apexi could do the same thing, as for holding a steady boost line then i guess thats what makes it a better quality product