abr33

yes

Cheers man, im doing alot of reading about the pumps breaking too, driving on only a portion of the flat parts on crank, i looked at my old pump and its got the same issue. i wish i knew this when i was building my engine as i have everything to do it at work! but its a matter or pulling engine out, then appart, a whole lot of stuffing around and involving time that doesnt exist...

but being a thicker oil not as much would get pumped up to the head would it? and by thicker oil, is 10/60 is thick enough or is it too thick?

ok so running thicker oil should help alot, but say i rev it right out for a while say doing a top speed run, with thicker oil in it will it still eventually pump it all to the head or will extra .5 to 1L make it physically impossible to pump the sump dry? Further to that, why did it not breath a drop on the dyno? or is the issue only present when g forces are in play?

I use it on the road, i may take it to track for fun but nothing serious. I do still have the front exh side drain and it works. If i put a restrictor in with thin oil will it supply enough to the lifters? Or if i was to put stock pump on, will it supply enough oil to everything? SO, do i neave n1 on and restrict with drain back pipe, or put stock pump on with thicker oil? And will the stock pump handle up to 8k revs and pushing 350kw? (thats my next tune goal) OR, do i run thick oil and keep running the n1 pump? Which is the best solution for street/very occasional drag use? p.s. i do overfill the oil by near 2L because iv heard if this problem once before thanks for the input

Plus i see that running from rear of head is obviously lower, but providing you can get enough drainage, and not be filling catch can, and have enough oil in sump to not run out, your winning right? And sorry about starting new thread on a known topic, i was searching with all the wrong words before

Looks alright, and yeah i imagine the hose would melt... Recon before pulling head off its worth trying running return from the cam cover down? Im only reving it to about 7500, most that have the issue iv now read about are revving them a fair bit harder than that?

Cheers jez, found a few good threads! How would it get on by tigging on a fitting to back of cam cover (exhaust side) and running a hose down to sump possibly in with the turbo oil return line? just how much oil needs to flow down?

Hi guys, last week i got my car tuned (finally) ended up running haltech e11 v2 and we got 260rwkw on only 14psi and 400nm torque. Could'nt go any more as auto started slipping and small intercooler seen the air temp to 70+ degrees. Still stoked as hell though it goes like a cut cat! Now what i cant figure out is why i fill my (small) catch can so fast, it fills with clean oil that doesnt smell burnt at all and only seems to come from the passenger side cam cover breather, iv got the can plumbed back (sucking oil through system) i get no smoke that i can see at all out of exhaust. My pcv? valve is clean and working too. Im running an N1 pump and 0w-40 edge sport oil, done full build- rods, cp forgies, oversize bore, port n polish and heaps more. Strange thing is on the dyno it didnt get a drop of oil in can, but driving on road it does (only when WOT) My theory = oil filling cam cover faster than it can drain back helped by g-forces of acceleration therefore running into can when theres nowhere else for it to go. Motor is 2500km old and runs smooth as. I cant remember is there a drain in head at back of the passenger side cam cover? if not my idea might be correct? I do run about 20mm overfull of oil to avoid getting any air up etc. I think thats all i can tell you all Sorry didnt add its an rb25det...

Ok thankyou very much, i havent put my name in any posts, cheers mate! =D

Hi guys, i dont think i put a nickname up and it uses my actual name, can you please change it to abr33 and is it possible to have my name deleted/changed on all my threads and post as i dont really want my name out there for all to see, basically so noone can see my name, just the new nick, cheers

I know, i thought it was right, but after learning about the 'flow' side of it all versus pressure, i would'nt hesitate to retract that comment. So for what its worth im sorry

Cheers to all with a positive input, iv ordered injectors and will be running a map ecu when i get it tuned which will be asap. Im not building the auto any stronger yet, the bloke at the shop said they are good for 300kw without dramas, and i didnt go out and buy the to4 it came with a head i got all second hand. He said with my setup ill be able to get 400+ kwatw but with standard driveline its obviously a stupid idea. And i do intend down the track to put 3k stall in it, therefore having a turbo that big will not really disadvantage me. Any ballpark figure of torque at how many revs you think? Iv learnt alot from most of you and thanks for all the input.Im sorry if i upset a few of you through my stupid questions or arrogance or any other reason. I do intend to be an active member on here as this is a great site and awesome info available, especially as most of you have been through the same troubles im working through with my build, so anyone with a grudge please forgive me about the bad start. Thanks very much guys

Cheers mate, ill pull the boost right down, so it is safe still? id hate to damage anything. i take from what you said as i cant really hurt it if it does do R&R? it is running quite rich i might add, i always thought if your not detonating, and running ruch, damage is near impossible

thanks very much, thats all i needed to know. I was being serious. And as the first injected motor iv built, the electric side is all new, what is a good map ecu that will incorperate the auto properly? In saying time bomb, will it be alright to wind down boost to lowest ( i think 8 psi) and still drive it? thanks again mate this is the info im after

Thankyou for a reasonable comment, i know that mate i will be getting a full tune eventually and was just running that boost because it was happy with that before, just thought someone may have had the issue before, thanks

Wow, did i hit a wrong note there? you seem to have gotten a little upset? sorry about that... Cheers for all the constructive ideas! i wasnt looking to get more power out of the stock goodies... just to fix the flat spot. Enough negativity yet or is more in store?

Because my eventual intended boost of about 18 will kill the stock one... 10 psi in the intake is EXACTLY 10 psi in the intake... Anyone else feel free to explain this too... I love you peoples nagativity... quite interesting...

OK OK,,,, i reposted cause i thought i put it in the wrong section... And i realise most of whats said, but i used to run 13psi with stock turbo with no issues, and i do intend on getting the ecu done and a full tune, however i was hoping for any suggestions to settle the issue, i will reduce the boost to about 8 and see how it goes. And as for the comment about the engineers cert i dont quite get it? And "the mafia" BOOST is BOOST 10 psi out of a stock turbo is still the SAME pressure as 10 psi out of a big turbo... only difference is spool time... general physics mate....

hardly, all exactly the same as it used to be when running spot on, only big difference is the turbo, which is running less pressure than when i had the stock one on, all plumbing etc is as it was before... its not the ecu (i think) because its not working any harder due to similar boost and same timing etc etc. got me stumped.

G'day guys, my r33 gtst auto has a problem. When at wot it goes like the clappas until 5k, then holds back. If in 3rd or 4th it will sorta cut out as well, 1st aint so bad, running 11psi but when about 6500-7000 it pulls hard again. Mods... top mount t04z, 50mm wastegate, port n polish, forged bottom end, fmic, new split fire coil packs, plus alot more... all stock electrics, new 02, good clean afm, timing is at 15btdc, idles at 650-700 rpm, all seems well except the big flat spot, tried resetting ecu etc, no boost leaks at all, wiring all looks intact. I built the car slowly over 3 years and used to rev fine but with new stuff i cant sort it out. oh and fuel is running about 40psi ish. its driving me totally nuts. please help me before i go loopy. thanks in advance guys.

Hi all, im new and have a problem that no search on here or google can solve. Ok, so iv got an r33 gtst auto rb25det. Iv fully rebuilt the engine, 1mm oversize, cp forged pistons, eagle H rods, full port n polish, custom extractors, top mount t04z, 50mm greddy wastegate, 3" straight through system, fmic, plus heaps i have forgotten. Problem is i cant get it to run right, to have it idle and drive nicely, timing is set at about 25 degrees (shit loads) but doesnt detonate at all, and less advance it dies off. When i hold it wide it gets to 5000 revs and has a bad flat spot untill a spike in power at 6200. I have the stock ecu, all electrics are stock so i can get engineered. even if i hit the throttle at idle and it revs to 3000 it sometimes dies or struggles to get a smooth idle back. And its especially bad when driving even very lightly on throttle, i have to hold it on a bit when i back off to stop it stalling. Any ideas would be great as its driving me nuts iv tried heaps like new afm, o2, reset ecu and all plugs, its got no leaks (air). Everything electric is same as it was before i pulled it down and it used to run spot on. Its not running rich either (about 11-12L/100k) Cheers!