abr33

RB25det rebuilt, used standard sump, n1 pump, no restrictors = problems. All forged engine. Didnt go bang i removed it cause i was scared about the crank collar not being done. caught it in time. bearings were absolutely totalled. Was running approx 280-290 rwkw for 8000kms. Alot of big numbers on hot days (45+ degrees) Now i have 7.5 litre custom sump with baffles and gates, tomei pump, blueprinted crank, the whole lot and currently running in. I hope nothing goes wrong this time i really do.

Neat idea, useless if you want to plumb back though...

How deep are we talking?

I was actually thinking about posting about this exact thing. My 4x4 has it, they make full boost at about 16-1800 revs. They have a funny sound about them too. Would be interesting if it ends up in the modifying scene

I have run a rear head drain, front sump to cam cover 1 inch breather, catch can to sump return, my own design baffling in the 25 covers ill post pics up eventually if it actually works...

Will do, cheers guys

I did this, and ended up with the wrong one will contact local dealer monday. And im going genuine for the quality. i used ryco's before but this build will only see genuine for now..

Just Jap actually have these listed but not the same p/n as the australian number? http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18355

Ok thanks very much, so what i have on now is the r34 rb26 filter. Dont think it'll hurt to drive with on run in? till i get the correct items

Because i want to run a genuine. nothing but. Just cant work out which is which

Well thats about the same size as the ones iv been sent but says on box fits sentra's, 300zx z31's, maxima, pulsar's etc but mainly the vg series from the 80's and early 90's

My thoughts exactly... i will send em back if they are wrong but need to find out first lol thanks anyway

So its different numbers to the states?? so why would they send me 55YOA? I did order by engine model not part number. A bit confusing?

Hi all, I dont like making new posts, but iv searched for an hour about bloody oil filters and here is my problem: I got a genuine filter from the local nissan P/N 15208-53JOA told him i had an rb25det.. Filter box does say rb26dett, and is a pretty small unit. I bought 6 online for a great price from U.S. and they are P/N 15208-55YOA and they are a bigger unit, like z145a. Box says for most of the vg series engines. I cant find info on the difference between the two, which one really is the rb25 genuine part? Ill think of everything else i was gonna ask in a minute... thanks

Compared to some people thermostats are f**king genius.

It doesnt just go BANG OPEN at 75 degrees. it eases open to regulate the returning oil to the set temp level. just like your water one...

Im using it for 1000kms... prob less. My engine is blue printed and diamond honed. no run in. i will take it easy on it for a bit though. When you spend 20k on an engine why save a hundred bucks on using shit oil... If your block is'nt diamond honed then yes use mineral and run it in. And a good mineral at that.

Depends, has your bottom end been blue printed? And was your block diamond honed? If both are yes, you dont need to run it in. by the time you've driven it to dyno, its run in. I am using redline 15/50 in mine. it'll do a few hundred kms then ill dump it. (into old work ute) However if its been done with a stone, yep mineral oil will be the go

Sorry, bad explanation. it woulda been prob 3 thou but i mean 3 thou larger not 3 thou gap

200 is quite hot for alloy mate. Id be tempted to sit it on about 150c. and when your done, just turn oven off and let it completely cool on its own. you dont want to unevenly cool it or quench it as that will warp it or crack it.

jiffo's right, I know how to rotate to set and all but my spring itself isnt right, it holds all but zero tension on the belt. Its not damaged just not coiled up.... So when it used to whir with my first build, it was obviously too tight, so can it be all but whirring? I realise what a loose belt ends up doing, but what does a slightly too tight one do? Thanks for the input though guys

Should add its a gates belt kit and it uses the factory spring. And to be extra sure, can someone confirm how tight the belt should be exactly?

Hopefully this has'nt been answered, but I am about to finish all my refit of my s1 rb25 and I need to confirm about the timing belt tensioner, the spring is meant to adjust the belt correct?, so i did this and it doesnt hardly even move the belts slack... Am i meant to wind up the spring before fitting it over the stud it sits on? I set my belt with an allen key, but im worried about tension. I set it last time too tight and it was making a whirring sound, I want some reassurance/help with this because i have a near 20k motor that I dont want to **** up. Thanks

Id set it up on a 2 speed switch thing, so when its under temp it just slowly makes a breeze so you have a little airflow plus it uses hardly any current on low speed and will be quiet. Unsure if you need a special fan for low speed but with dc power i dont think so?? Thats just what id do

Ok cheers mate, will the fact that a few are pumped up with like 100+psi of air make the valve ride and hit pistons or nothing like thats possible?