abr33

I recon you'll find its air in fuel line, after being sat for a while, mine does that too, i dont have anything stock and it can do it, prime fuel twice, bingo

Hi all, thinking the other day, my subframe paint on my 33 is looking a bit ordinary, flaking off etc.. So, i have to obviously sandblast it, and rather than pay a hundred bucks or more for a good respray, why not galvanise it? would cost me about 60 bucks, never come off, make cleaning easy, and be different. And while im at it why not do front crossmember too? Only consideration is id need to hardness test the metal to check its not a high carbon material (unless someone knows?) because it will be heated to about 700 degrees and that will damage or soften some metals. Anyone got some input?

Do you think it'll matter?

Oh cool. i just did my best with a little diamond file. one did have a micro chip come off it but nothing much. dont think it'll matter though

And what files do most people use? i used a little diamond file

I did mine the other day, cp's, 86.5mm bore. top ring should be 18.7 thou (19) second should be 23 to 28 thou. i had an oopsie and did a top ring about a thou over and a second ring on a different cylinder at 27 thou meant to be 24 but its within tolerance. easy to get carried away. i used internal mic's and checked bores they are spot on and i sat ring 5mm under and square to deck. im not running huge power but about 300 heading to about 350kw. REMEMBER, nitrous needs more gap, i also believe if you run ethanol you can run a tighter ring as it runs alot colder. (can anyone confirm??)

I know right, seems ridiculously large flow, but even granted that it most likely wont flow that, should surpass what ill be using it for. Interesting read that thanks. With those numbers it should support monsterous power... Sounds too good to be true Ever heard of anyone trying one? Maybe ill be a guinea pig unless there's a reason why not to give it a red hot go?

Hi all, I hope this isnt a previously discussed topic, did search my best but probably missed it. mods please delete/block if already discussed. I want to know if anyone has experience with this 'new'? pump from walbro, figures are impressive but is it going to fit and work in my 33 gtst? I asked in another topic but wasn't really answered. I have a 255lp/h one running somewhere around the 280-300kw mark with not a worry, but will be heading to about 340-350 ish soon, i dont have a problem with buying a nismo or anything but for the money can one of these exceed? So, opinions? http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=F90000262&eq=&Tp= Cheers

+1 to mafia's idea, i did the same thing to my exh studs before too. I remove studs at work all the time, usually weld to the broken stud, basically anyway. Or there is a stud remover which slowly arcs the stud away but takes ages. Do not try welding to them unless you know what your doing. Expect to pay 50-100 bucks depending on how stuck it is plus travel... Most common reason i see for easyout failure is the hole getting drilled off centre and out into thread, ending in nothing happening. I hate easyouts. And Id get yourself some arp studs, reason they break is one end is manifold temp- several hundred degrees and other end is head temp- a hundred or 2... Metal doesnt like this. arp ones are a ground stud with less imperfections

No i mean the thing on my name bit that says rb20det.. should be 25

Havent bought one, just looking atm, and sorry, havent worked out how to change that thingo, im running a 25

has anyone used these? should i be fitting one? Im heading to 350 ish kw... http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=F90000262&eq=&Tp= Or is it stupid overkill or a shit pump? Currently running the 255 lp/h walbro

Looks legit, i have one, came the same, no branded box etc.. I used the original filter on end of it as it fitted best. Mine did come with foam but i cannot remember if i used it or not... Mine did come with walbro instructions however

I know from bikes that when you run an ethanol content your egt's are much lower that pulp, so its a safe bi-product of ethanol to have low egt, couldnt give you a figure for a car engine though. Its much safer on your valve seats and almost everything because (especially e85) is just so much cooler.. And in the case of a 2 stroke (getting off topic) its awesome if you tune it right, will make huge power difference and much harder to melt a piston

Sounds stupid but check you have hooked you fuel lines up correctly, iv done that before (in a rush)

Check the plugs that go onto the dash at back where the little copper contact strips are if you havent already, iv had them be tempremental in my 33. look really close for any corrosions or breaks

When you guys say 10mm drill, where are you talking? i though the idea was to grind the rear drains? or are you using a drill in place of die grinder?

ok so no real problem with an overfill, ill attack the drains on weekend. Has anyone experienced oil problems with restrictors and head drain with bubbles or starvation up really steep hills with big power?

You mean the back head drains in particular? ill tidy them with a die grinder. So is crank hitting oil bad? Any other opinions on the scavenge pump?

No i havent yet, but they look great? nothing restrictive about them. or do i need to take them oversize? Now, plenty of oil? Does anyone know if overfilling a bit is bad? what happens if your crank slaps the oil?

Hi all, i have a question, my 25, i built it, got it tuned (about 320rwkw), found out about oil problems, got scared and pulled engine out to fit restrictors and make sump bigger. To my horror the bearings were totally shot, and had been running dry at times obviously, anyway thats sorted, whole bottom is getting blueprinted as we speak. But what i want a second opinion on is, is putting a scavenge pump from rear of sump pan to front unnessisary? Iv made sump bigger, about 1.5L, and its baffled and gated, modified pickup, i have tomei pump set to 65psi. head restrictors, rear head drain etc. Reason i worry is when i do a hillclimb race of any sort, when pulling huge revs for really long times up really steep hills, will the oil flow back to front of sump? or is it a worthy setup? Its predominantly driven sensibly on the road, but i will do the odd race and track and skidpan day. Now everyone will say go dry sump... Iv considered it, not going to do it the aircon is too valuable around here. plus its pretty dear. And i dont bash the limiter, so the tomei should serve me well. Iv probably missed some details... thanks

all sorted guys running haltech, i was just asking if there was a problem i could fix i knew ecu had to be done but didnt think it was the problem :-)

Its all sorted guys, got it tuned and we could only get about 260rwkw at 14psi because my intercooler is only 500x130x50 and we were getting temps up to 70+ degrees and it was tapering off, and auto was being a bit funny its still awesome power and through the auto is interesting, its on the verge of uncontrollable when you hold it wide, unlike a manual just hitting limiter, it goes straight to 2nd and then 3rd, its like a dog trying to run on ice. I know there are heaps of you with double and more power than that, but for me im happy with it. BTW running haltech e11 v2.... and im going to ( in future) do a 4k stall, manualise box and put a crank collar on before i go back. My tuner said the t04 hasnt even come to life yet and says ill easly crack 400.. i do have a bigger intercooler too.

Its because everytime your engine slowly cools, it sucks air in and the moisture in the air evaporates to lid and a bit mixes with oil residue and makes it white, basically anyway

cheers guys your all full of great info, today i ordered some 10w60 oil as its the closest in the edge sport range, and ill vent can to atmospheric, and im also putting a drain back from can to sump, im not going to fit a crank collar (for now) as my tuner said its only an issue when revving over 8k usually, and im limited to 7600 but the auto changes gears at 7500ish now. i will in the future (or not so distant future if i cant stop this oil blowing out) pull motor out, make crank collar and fit it, build a big sump extension with baffling and gates and drain back at rear of head. but for the moment, im happy with my 260kw providing i stop the oil coming out ill leave it as is for time being. ill be fitting a really good oil pressure gauge too to keep an eye the situation. Im guessing its overfull by 2 litres I havent measured it, but its about 25-27mm over the full mark if anyone knows about how much extra. Thanks everyone