abr33

I have a straight through varex with a hotdog in middle, 3 inch, 100 db open, 77 shut. magical. And my engineer signed off on it. Just dont use wot when closed or bad things will happen. that is unless you always want it quiet

I think this may be quite the possibility? Hard to see with that pic but doesnt appear to be from the crank seal

Make a thing that hovers engine in its position, like across strut towers, remove the frame part that holds your wheels? and engine mounts, and sway bar, bingo. If you have a hoist and the tools it'll be easier than engine removal... I haven't done it but did think about it.

The fines for letting it out are big I hear. Make sure you seal the pipes off so shit doesnt get in cause if not your kill a/c compressor should you decide to re-instate the unit. You obviously live in melbourne or you'd need it!

You dont really even need to bleed them. I didnt know I had to, started it, sounded like a milo tin full of bolts, ran it for 5 mins, next day quiet as a mouse.. They self bleed. You may have a little bit of shit or cotton or aloy or god knows what clogging the little hole for a lifter. Let us know :-)

Recon it'd matter much? provided it wasnt assembled dry, shouldnt hurt as far as i know. plugs out is probably safer though dont think it'd matter I really think its a lifter not bled or stuffed, listen to the knock speed, to me it sounds too slow to be crank speed. SOLUTION to find out, use timing light, does the knock have the exact speed as the flash of the light? if so, its cam/lifter/valve problem. If its twice as fast as the flash you have a bottom end problem

I have straight pipe 3 inch with a hotdog in the middle and a varex. 99db open 77 shut... and my engineer signed off on it. Just dont hit any boost when shut or bye bye to every seal in the turbo and probably engine! Im really happy with it, not drony at all and so quiet when shut on road all i can hear is my injectors clapping away.. and open for full noise applications :-)

This will be the best way to do it, maybe remove plug to disable and use stethescope (spelling) as the air coming form cylinder will be loud. disable the injector for the cylinder being tested to reduce your risk of explosive mixes coming out of plug hole

I recon its a lifter. unusually loud though. listen to the engine speed versus the knock, its a valve problem.

Even better convert it to the falcon motor out of an xc 4.1 thats where the power is at. And you go auto easy... then you can run gas! I hope this is a troll

post a picture up

The car in the burnout video didnt sound like it was limiter bashing, but revving bloody hard

Repairable? maybe, get a competent shop to weld your busted journal and tunnel bore it back out. Or if its easier get a new head, your lucky you didnt break your cam and eat your engine Would be a tricky one to repair

Does look like there was no oil, how long was it squeeling for?

That works out at 2.5 thou basically, thats exactly what i run in my 25 running a tomei pump, ill be pulling similar revs once tuned. Be sure to run a thick oil. I run redline 15w/50 BTW mine was blueprinted, id suggest that for big output

no, knock out the steel rusted bit, get a s/s one machined up to hammer back in to replace it

nope, rip it out, if its easy enough, machine up (or get machined) a s/s pipe that replaces it To weld it would be superficial if your welding to rusted already very thin tube. or rip it out and tig on an alloy tube. i like the s/s pipe idea better though. Never rust again!. Your block wont be that rusted, cast iron rusts hardly anything compared to mild steel rolled tube. will still be a bit rusty but ok. Get a good coolant and run a bit of castrol RCI (radiator and corrosion inhibitor)

They are a press in pipe, and your auto cooler lines dont 'need' plugging as long as they are never going to be needed again. Id just cap them with something maybe put a bit of fuel hose joining the 2 pipes.

Check the lines that actuate the bov's, might be cracked, and not getting enough pressure to keep valve shut off under boost, bizzare that when you take it off and hit it again it works..

Video is not working?

Or what if the guts blew out of your cat when racing it or something and you did'nt know I actually had a cat start falling apart when my car was near stock, just started breaking up...

I did about 30 kms and took oil out of sump as soon as i got it on hoist as per their instructions. And yes i feel alot better knowing

The company Duncan suggested, oilcheck in sydney (and W.A.) was 36 bucks... really good they rang me straight away and explained it well.

Yep. I was quite relieved. hopefully silicon is stable next test. It can really be coming from anywhere else.. And the tests are really cheap. about 36 bucks a go. i was expecting a hundred to 150 bucks. Thanks everyone for the help/input Now to get the rest done and hit the dyno

Look in for sale threads or find someone on ebay parting one out