abr33

And obviously ill get it sorted. Im thinking some sort of damper is needed

Its 2 hours each way to them, im going to try fitting the factory rear half, ans see if that fixes it

It had been dropped in transit, small scratch mark on flange. But iv narrowed it down. Old diff back in, and its between 115 and 130 kmh. , its doing my head in, diff and box within well under 1 degree. Is a harmonic imbalance plausible?

No, my shaft was the donor for centre spigot and sliding spline, It was bolted together when they balanced it, and it was balanced to some crazy tolerance. And uni's were setup to within a thou of perfect. The centre bearing could be lowered 5mm to get shaft perfectly straight, but that shouldnt affect it. Its very bizzare, I expected gearbox noises to resonate through it, but not a death vibe. How could anything in the diff be causing this and how could it get so hot? Its never been shimmed either.. I have my 4.36 diff which is lazy but will get me out of trouble. I will get a genuine good condition shaft sent out today incase it all turns to shit. This is pretty sad though...

Hi all, I fitted my new large 2 piece tailshaft, along with 2nd hand 4.11 diff, I opened diff and cleaned etc, see shaft in the 'what tailshaft do you run' thread. I have a coppermix single clutch which gives gear noises at low revs as its got no damper, but at 120 it feels like being on the ripple things on the freeway, its terrible! The diff felt good and appeared ok when I cleaned it, but it got super hot (70 degrees ish) in under 10 kms driving. Please help I have a trackday in a week!

Yeah I popped it out to flare it a little, id like to keep it on, but if it gets in the way still, ill machine up a s/s one the right size

Got my tailshaft today, I opted for the biggest unis I could get, they built the entire shaft using my old centre plates, and my sliding spline drive. Made everything else, heavier tube, 90x30 uni's that are solid, no grease galleries. The bloke at hardie spicer said it'll handle 1000 odd hp, and massive tourque, so I should never break this one! I did have to flare the end of gearbox cover/shield to allow the uni to clear. Best bit, replacable uni's!!!! If anyone wants better photos of details etc just ask..

I will find out within 2 weeks when I hit the track, I machined front lip on balancer down to 1mm over belt height, and bead blasted all the shiny black anodising off the belt grooves. I went back to the strip and did the same things that spat it last time, it stayed on. Will know for sure after I get to track. Ill keep you posted

Hardy spicer Why?

To repair it you'd have to gouge it all out, bake the head to remove impurities, and weld the entire affected area up, provided it was even possible, then you'd have heat effected area near weld, then you'd also have stresses built in to it. I wouldn't be keen on repair.

I looked up FRSport and they are 520 plus like 130 shipping?

I have a new shaft being built atm, im running 3 inch heavier tube, with uni's that are a 30mm cap x 90mm uni with external clips and all replaceable uni's. Will be a 2 piece shaft. The builder said they make them for 1000hp drag cars with no failures. Should well exceed my needs.

When I bought it all about 5 years ago, it was a fair price, all set up. Now out dated though I know but im not too concerned. If i get boost by 4k ill be happy. even as it is i like it, kinda like a 2 stroke i guess lol

Well I bought the whole top end second hand, and I plan to get it on e85 in the next year or 2 when its available and do few more supporting bits for around 380-400. I love the oversize turbo, I get killer economy, its safe in the wet, and i get great top end. When it was bought 1.05 rears were only available. It'll be a bit snappier with a small housing.

I run a ported 25, with t04z and 1.05 rear, I dont get my boost on hard till 4800 rpm, im hoping cams, and a .83 rear will bring it hard from 4k. which is what i want. Im not interested in twisting the earth at 3000 revs...

Iv been putting off doing cams... dont know why. I think ill go poncams or custom cams seem about the same cost. Will going to full flex fuel setup in the future need to be considered when buying cams?

Brent at envydyno does my tune, you will pay accordingly regardless of where you go. If its super cheap, steer clear.

How shit does it make doing oil filter?? opposed to stock plenum?

Also interested price dependant

rear housing will do wonders. what size have you got? And in sydney maybe gcg turbos are great but a little pricey

Thats a tidy conversion there, only thing im interested in is how much does your sump hold? looks very small?

Pirelli p-zero 235/45/17. Dry so far 9/10, wet - not sure yet, doest rain where I live. They hold 260 rwkw when warm in second. almost 1st, with 4.36 diff. Would highly recommend, will return with more after track

I got tires from tirerack a few weeks back, after money cleared 5 days and 4 tires turned up. Cost $1060 including wire transfer fee for 4 pirelli p-zero's 235/45/17

I wound an m10 x 25mm grub screw into my pcv tube, it cannot come out, it might leak the most miniscule bit though

Even if relief was stuck, would the trust pump make 150 psi at idle?? unless its blocked somewhere for it to back up, and the relief valve was blocked at the same time, it couldnt get to that pressure at idle. let us know how mech gauge goes.