abr33

Can also retard timing tapering back from your desired limit a few hundred revs.. Ill be getting this done on my next tune. that way you lose lots of power before limiter so you wont be going near it deliberately. And it softens the limit somewhat I believe. i.e. my limit is 7700 atm, start retarding at that to a 8000 limiter.. Has anyone got feedback on this idea? And back on topic, how much kicking has one got to do to abliterate a thrust bearing!?!?

Thats bad, real bad, did you have water in oil when gasket blew? maybe residue but thats heavily contaminated

Definately timing belt too tight. Especially being oem one. Gates racing ones make a bit of a whine when engines hot, but the stocker should be silent. Made this mistake myself also

I make 340 ish on stock cams. I will admit we're at the upper limit of them. But drivability is like stock.

Far out, thats bad! Id be looking at them getting it fixed, especially for what they cost.

How hard does the full monty bite compared to the single plate coppermix? My single coppermix has trouble sometimes with 3rd gear kicks and sometimes when shifted to 4th.. with 340rwkw

So the problems almost gone now, turns out the spigot on diff was .3mm undersize, and bolt holes being super neat, when loosened off I wiggle plates and no play... The manager/engineer came and inspected the setup, and detected this, took it back, made new spigot perfect size, re-balance again and sent back and I fitted it, and now it runs great to 110 km/h but 110-120 it has the same vibration however nowhere near as severe as before, its just annoying now. Everything setup and balanced perfect we are at a loss as to what the issue now is. The only thing suggested was the unis, as they are a solid centre type, have fibre thrust washers on ends to stop play, and inturn offer resistance, the possibility is they are just tight enough to begin vibrations at that speed. IF this is the case, it'll pan out in the next few hundred kms.. I hope so. Input?

Has anyone used a haltech e11v2 with a flex fuel setup? using content sensor? If found apparently you cant use the new haltech content sensor?

Appears to be all retail pricing, even bumped up a bit. Shop around.

I got a one way valve, havent sorted this yet, in that iv done nothing about it having been street driving only and no track work for a while. I plan to get it happening asap

You did'nt put the damaged plug back in did you?

And it gets a little complex when talking hydraulics too

A surface grind of gasket area would go a long way to ensuring your not building stresses into it as well. Also probably help the possibility of a leak

Also get your pump pressure set to a suitable level for the power, oil and clearances used in your build. It will also help.

This is a good point, it'll need baking to remove oils etc from the metal and dont attempt to cut it up unless you know exactly what penetration gaps/prepping it'll need as you may very well make it harder to do. That price aint bad for that. Expect to pay 150 for ordinary job, 250 for baking prepping and welding.. Over 300 and they're having you

I thought the crank had a few mm clearance from pump, so wtf has happened with the thrust bearing??

Ah ok If bov is not set recirc it's probably open on cruise and metering air not reaching motor.. Or is that whats previously meant?

What would playing with bov do for the tune at all? Unless your running a afm obviously

I get about 500-600kms a tank on my 25. When driving sensibly on highway. When I drive it on track i can get around 200 per tank! On road driving a bit harder between 450-500. I dont run it under 1/4 usually though. I think, (dont quote me) my cruise afr's are around 17-18?? rings a bell anyway. Im getting a bit more fuel added on cruise next time as it doesnt do plugs alot of good when doing big kms on highways etc.

Mines 2 piece, standard setup with stronger tubes and much bigger uni joints. All is aligned and stock shaft has zero vibes

Tried everything really, even phasing 90 degrees, im running stock shaft till the manager of spicer comes out and looks at it

Im sure this topics been beaten to death a few times... Splitfires or new OEM coils maybe a few cheaper brands are ok

My 33 ones broke half of them off at 140k... Its quite common When removing them that is

If you have access to an oxy set use a brazing tip without lighting your car on fire get the nut to a dull red and maintain for about 30 secs, when slightly cooler, (not hot enough to ignite) spray inox on it until its just too hot to touch, then undo it. 99% win rate.

Iv been running Remsa (i think) pads all round recommended by gslrallysport, they are very well priced, quiet, I ran them on eastern creek and really gave them a hard time and not one bit of fade at all. Running castrol super dot 4 fluid on std r33 gtst calipers and rotors. Only downside its they are very dusty.