abr33

Sounds like thats your problem then. unless there is a broken wire

^^ Iv had exactly this before, was more like 4 cylinders but hardly went let alone move the car.. Make sure you push the connector together not just relying on the bolt to pull it.

I didnt mean you were going to rant, usually someone does but lol. And If your reffering to the hks mushroom type pods yes they are as useful as tits on a bull. I have a unifilter oiled foam gizmo, wire cage inside, and its a cylinder about 140mm round and 160 long, i figure more surface area is better, each to their own but. my 10c :-)

Why do you run a foam filter in bikes that race in bull dust? Why do they run foam filter in alot of off road buggies and 4x4s? They are the best filtration vs flow out. In saying this there is ALOT to do with the quality of oil used. Some very very high quality paper filters can stop smaller particulate dust. a pod you can literally see through is as good as fly screen. cue someones rant opposing...

Do you run an air flow meter? If you do dont use an oiled filter.. If you dont, consider an oiled unifilter foam large pod thing. I do. Just takes alot of space

How can they possibly make a t04z and sell it for 700 bucks?? Thats ridiculous. I got my garret one second hand 5 years ago and it cost a shite load then arent genuine ones upward of 3k?

No, i am being unfair in not mentioning im running map haltech e11v2 and im running a t04z so I dont get good boost till 3k and solid boost untill 4800 revs so its easy to not use alot :-) A lot of my driving is main roads/highways but lots of hills... even in citys i still get under 12

Absolutely do, I recon id get even down to 8.5-9 on a highway. Its tuned quite lean at cruise, as far as it can without being dangerous. Down side i can only use 98+ octane fuel. But even if i drive hard in traffic i get about 11-12 :-) Alot of WOT and the fuel goes down as the speedo goes up lol

Balance fuel costs of an rb? What? I get under 10L/100ks most of the time!

+1, my auto at 140k old well maintained, lasted 2000kms of easy driving with the odd leadfoot appeal shat itself with 260kw

I guess it would depend how aggressive your cam is, how strong your springs are, maybe the oil? And how long you want it to last.. Maybe someone can confirm the limit and why?

8000 isnt the limitation on hydraulic lifters...

Ok, it seemed to blow out more as oil in vapour and paint the whole engine bay, well, how i see it anyways, that was the 5w/30 (all edge sport) then the 0w/40 was a tiny bit thicker and sorta ran out more than spray and then 10w/60 used to just dribble a bit.. Thats how I came to such a conclusion

Like I said, I found this on my engine originally. Between running 5w/30 and 10w/60, the lighter was an absolute oil spewing mess, the thicker pumped some out but nothing like the 5w/30. So how do you figure this? Im not saying its the solution by any means, but thats what I personally experienced so my statement stands.

lighter will increase the amount in your head, i found this before fitting restrictors etc when i had an n1 pump, lighter atomises and blows out easier, also more will get to the head and so on... I learned it wont help lol.

Ok thats a shit of a lot of power lol. 90 is alright imo. Food for thought is v8's that typically have 5 main journals that are usually similar size to an rb which has 7.. and most run 60 ish psi with average oil. And for similar outputs it works perfectly for alot of them.

Lucky, no need to take motor out to adjust it :-) In my opinion, provided your not making alot over 300-350 kw 70 psi will be ok, Double check this, i may be incorrect. Oh and is it an ester synthetic oil or cheaper synthetic?

Depends on your oil type, weight, crank clearance etc, im running 2.5 thou journal clearance and redline 15w/50 with pump (tomei) at 65 (more like 70) psi. What pump are you using?

Yeah, definately some perculiar fungal growth goin on there.. Doest even really look like corrosion

Thanks, the big one is for my sump breather.. I did everything at once. first build not knowing about any of this with n1 pump, light oil, stock sump restrictors etc it was a filthy oil spewing mess. What I did with covers is to try interfere the air flow to pull the particles of oil that come past. Also got pics of my sump and other bits if needed..

pics..

I have, tigged bits inside, removed rivets, put in m4 s/s allen screws.., also made s/s wool pillows under breather holes

Im trialing my idea with it all, I made my sump it holds 7.5 liters, gated and baffled, better pickup, 1 inch hose from r/h side of sump at top, to the cam cover, read head drain, drilled oil returns in head and block, 1.3mm restrictors ( i recon 1mm after crush). Also have the factory breather positions, modified the baffle plates in covers to resist oil flow, also have s/s superfine mesh holding in s/s wool, with breathers going to catch can, and a half inch hose from bottom of catch can to exhaust top side of sump, in the catch can i have a baffle plate, with foam filter offcuts in breather side to stop oil mist. Also running tomei pump set at about 70 psi, with redline 15w/50 oil. No idea how it'll go on a track but so far i get mist go into can as the little oil that stays in can looks very dirty, im assuming not alot passes through.. If anyone want pics of anything iv done (except can as i have none yet) I can post the relevant pics..

is it possible for the lifters insides to collapse/leak and not hold any oil? Also dont flog it to bits with mineral oil in it. Or there might be bits.

Does sound odd actually, is your crank bent or twisted at all? like has the motor been blown before? Or has the crank collar (if fitted?) been put on excentric?